Hi Grizzly,
New seals don't always guarantee no leaks. Variations in design etc. mean the 'established' sealing point may not coincide with where the new seal dictates it will be. The entire machined surface of O/put shafts and collar of I/put flange should be polished up with 400grit 'wet o dry' before assembly. Even momentary contact with a 'CRUSTY' bit on a shaft or collar can ruin a new seal.
Even a wear 'trench' in the collars can be dodged with a new seal but this can be a bit of a risk.
Another very important point to mention is the DIFF has a 'breather' on the top of the casing. It is essential this is clear.
The DIFF gets hot, very hot, in excess of 100C, the boiling point of water at atmospheric pressure, after 15 mins. at motorway speeds
This heat will pressurize the ' hot oil gas' in a DIFF with a blocked breather. The pressure will tighten the seals on their mating surfaces and greatly increase wear.
The breather is often overlooked and will make an otherwise well done job look like an exercise in futility and much scratching of heads.
In your particular case (Grizzly) I would try to locate the exact location of your leak or leaks and apply the above if you have leaks past new seals.
As for the 'crush' spacer, you will need a new front oil seal since it must be removed to get access to the spacer. Removal of F/oil seal always destroys it as far as I know. Remove old spacer with two needle nosed pliers (can be a problem if flange nut has been grossly over tightened) fit new over splines, press in new seal,
polish up and 'oil' flange collar before fitting in seal.
Tightening the 'nyloc' nut to the correct torque should apply the correct pre load to the bearing. The crush sleeve is a 'use once only' and does not recover once deformed so releasing the nut after initial tightening is a 'no no'.
As far as I know, there are no matching marks for the flange to DIFF fitting but if there are any I would use them. The propshaft should be balanced in any configuration but again if there are marriage marks I would use them.
I use a bit of gas fitters 'BOSSWHITE' on the PROP/DIFF flanges because the new crush sleeve does not ALWAYS guarantee a good seal. Only a small amount is necessary and fitting the propshaft should happen while the 'Bosswhite' is still wet.
If it's any consolation to you, I have only ever seen two totally 'DRY' diffs on Elans out of around 100.
Let me know how you get on.
Satyr Icon