Clutch master needed.

PostPost by: reb53 » Thu Jun 04, 2015 12:41 am

The crappy PBR, ( Australian made), clutch master cylinder in my car only worked a few years before starting to play up.
Pulled it yesterday.
Black fluid, badly worn seals, and scored bore.

So, I'm about to order a new one and wondered the best place to go.
I assume Sue Miller, or SJS ?
I would imagine that they aren't, ( inadvertently), stocking "Girling" ones ex India.....i.e. they'd know better.

Any recent experiences, or suggestions ? ( polite ones :) ).

Ralph.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Jun 04, 2015 5:53 am

It could be down to just crappy seals not the whole master cylinder...why not just replace them with Girling seals?

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PostPost by: reb53 » Thu Jun 04, 2015 6:13 am

Hi John,
Both the piston and the bore are scored.
So I could clean both up, but I'm then faced with finding some decent seals, and not ending up with some bogus "Girling" ones.
I thought it might be easier to start again with something that has at least a bit of engineering quality to it.
Or am I be pushing it up-hill, ( and about to find a leak in the rope I'm pushing it with..... :( ).
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Jun 04, 2015 7:00 am

If the piston/bore are scored then bin it...

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PostPost by: reb53 » Thu Jun 04, 2015 8:07 am

That's the plan John, I'm just trying not to end up with one of similar "quality".
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:19 am

The quality of the PBR castings are better than the original Girling ones IMHO. I dont think they deteriorated in the trip across the Tasman :lol:

Get the cylinder sleeved with a stainless sleeve. Get a new piston if its badly scored, but the piston itself is not critical to the seal. Its the bore condition and rubber seal that's critical.

Get a good quality seal kit from an identifiable manufacturer and with the cylinder sleeve and OK piston you should be right.

cheers
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PostPost by: prezoom » Thu Jun 04, 2015 2:54 pm

Has anyone had experience with SBRX master cylinders?
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PostPost by: danielmo » Thu Jun 04, 2015 5:11 pm

I have been buying the Wilwood replacement master cylinders. Save the cap from your Girling one if you want it to look original, since the ones from Wilwood are plastic. They are well made.
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PostPost by: CrisinColorado » Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:39 pm

danielmo wrote:I have been buying the Wilwood replacement master cylinders. Save the cap from your Girling one if you want it to look original, since the ones from Wilwood are plastic. They are well made.


Howdy, would you be so kind as to post the Wilwood P/N please for the master cylinder.?

Thanks in advance,
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PostPost by: danielmo » Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:33 pm

Not sure what size you need. Scroll do the page until you get to the Integral Reservoir Compact Master Cylinders.

http://wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/Mast ... rList.aspx Sizes: 5/8" to 3/4" Bore Size
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PostPost by: snowyelan » Sat Jun 13, 2015 2:12 am

So i went out to look for my clutch cyl in the various boxes as I am going thru the hydraulics. Gone....Hope thats all I've lost. Anybody know the bore diameter? The Willwood appears to be bolt in, and a known qty for replacement components. Hopefully I find it as the pushrod probably isn't the same.

Thanks
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PostPost by: mbell » Sat Jun 13, 2015 2:59 am

Master is 5/8. Fitted a willwood to my brakes the push rod was too long. From memory quite tricky to get a short enough push rod.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:05 am

But easy enough to get a hacksaw....

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PostPost by: mbell » Sat Jun 13, 2015 2:13 pm

john.p.clegg wrote:But easy enough to get a hacksaw....

John :wink:


Yes, you also need to find one with a long enough threaded section to allow it to be trimmed. I had to slightly extend the threading on mine to allow to be made short enough.

I wasn't helped by the lack of information on the push rod lengths available online.
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