Miller CV Shafts

PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Tue Jun 17, 2014 10:01 pm

holywood3645 wrote:What price are the elan S4 Kelevdon shafts selling for?
James


495 GBP according to the Kelvedon web site:
http://www.kelsport.net/parts/products. ... ctionID=27
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PostPost by: peterexpart » Wed Jun 18, 2014 10:06 am

Chris wrote:Each CV joint should have a gasket in the joint it makes with the adaptor plate to prevent this grease loss.
Chris


Not according to Kelvedon, they told me that the CV Joint Housing was an interference fit into the Adaptor Plate each end and that "correctly" tightened there would be no leakage.

And in reply to "theelenman" I was only relaying what Sue Miller said about have passed the whole package over to Kelvedon, and I would say having seen the shafts supplied by both companies they appear to be identical, certainly they both use "Lobro (GKN)" CV Joints
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PostPost by: englishmaninwales » Wed Jun 18, 2014 12:54 pm

My set have been on back order for several weeks now, as Kelvedon are having some suppliers / manufacturing problems (I understand with the adapter plates). They are very apologetic about the situation.
Hopefully soon.

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PostPost by: Chris » Wed Jun 18, 2014 10:10 pm

peterexpert. Yes they are an interference fit but they should still have a gasket. These are supplied with all new GKN joints, and fit into a machined recess.
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PostPost by: englishmaninwales » Thu Jun 19, 2014 5:44 pm

They arrived today! :D
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Jun 19, 2014 10:21 pm

Chris wrote:peterexpert. Yes they are an interference fit but they should still have a gasket. These are supplied with all new GKN joints, and fit into a machined recess.
Chris


If your adapters have a machined recess then you can fit a gasket (if you have one) but you need a metal to metal join to keep the CV rigid on the adapter. So if no recess dont use a gasket.

I guess you could use some loctite sealing compound designed for rigid metal assemblies if you wanted to but there appears to be no need.

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PostPost by: au-yt » Fri Jun 20, 2014 11:05 am

Gee this was timely, as I just fitted a set which may be new old stock that came with the car.
If I see grease I will know what the problem is.
My issue with this setup is the nuts that they supply with the joints.
The nuts are an oversize on the ones I have and they were 11/16 AF as against the STD of 5/8" AF. I have replaced mine with an aircraft reduced hex nuts and none of the special washers.
This out fit calls them Jet Nuts
http://www.aircraftfast.com/jet-nuts.htm

Aircraft spec materials are 3 times stronger than the commercial nuts and have a locking feature that doesn't rely on nylon to lock. They are also a darn side easier to install with 1/2" AF and you get a more effective torque as you can do them up with a ring spanner.
The application that the nut are in, is in shear, so these are ideal, CBC would like them as they are much lighter...
20140618_205745.jpg and

attachment]
20140618_205850.jpg and

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Jun 20, 2014 11:45 am

Hi Graeme
great suggestion - I have never thought of the reduced hex jet nuts for this application and they are certainly a good idea as like you say you can get a ring spanner on them and they are more heat resistant using an all metal locking arrangement.

cheers
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PostPost by: au-yt » Fri Jun 20, 2014 10:11 pm

Hi Rohan
I did a quick Google and found that ARP are a good commercial source for these nuts in 12 point.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ARP-7-16-12- ... 20b7b72a66
They are not cheep but a much better fastener. The other thing is they can be reused!
Cheers

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PostPost by: peterexpart » Sat Jun 21, 2014 11:51 am

au-yt wrote:Hi Rohan
I did a quick Google and found that ARP are a good commercial source for these nuts in 12 point.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ARP-7-16-12- ... 20b7b72a66
They are not cheep but a much better fastener. The other thing is they can be reused!
Cheers

Graeme


Graeme
Are the 12 Point ARP Nuts Half Height like the Jet Nuts ?? as I would like to replace the Nyloc Hex Nuts as I do not like the idea of only tightening with an O/E Spanner but they would need to be a 1/2" Nut otherwise they would not fit on the Outside end of the shaft.
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PostPost by: prezoom » Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:33 pm

Jet nuts are hex or 6 pointed nuts. If you are interested, go to www.coastfab.com and look at their online store. They have pictures and pricing along with specifications. A 7/16 jet nut is listed at $3.25 ea.

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PostPost by: au-yt » Sat Jun 21, 2014 11:38 pm

This info would be a good generic thread about hard ware.

There is a multitude of different reduced AF nuts available from the Aircraft industry. The Automotive word produce similar products but don't need to meet "design Standards" for whats referred to as "Standard parts"

I found this info that will help, on the VANS discussion thread, I wont vouch the the accuracy however....
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/s ... hp?t=42630
"In summary, the strengths were as follows:
MS21042-6 11,600 lb
NAS679A6 12,500 lb
MS21045-6 15,800 lb
NAS1804-6 16,200 lb"

nut_test2b.jpg and


So from this the best choice is the NAS1804 series
I found this info on dimensions and equivalent nuts

http://coastfab.com/images/pdf/nuts_from2009cat.pdf

Keep in mind some of these are propitiatory like the BAC "Boeing Aircraft Corporation" so you wont find them on EBAY!. Other like AN you might.

If you are wondering about how to choose the size is the "-" Dash Number is in 1/16ths so for the CV application its -7


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PostPost by: englishmaninwales » Sat Jun 28, 2014 8:56 am

englishmaninwales wrote:They arrived today! :D


Sorry for the thread hijack!

Ok set about fitting these nice shiny new CV driveshafts. RHS first. Fitted the driveshaft to the differential output shaft. Fitted the AVO reduced length dampers to the strut, compressed the spring (original fixed spring lower platform) and fitted the strut assembly to the car. Attached the lower wishbone outer fixings. Removed the spring compressors, and suspension now in its new droop limited position. I can now see it is going to be 'impossible' to engage the driveshaft outer studs as there is not enough slide (shortening) on the driveshaft splines......Help!!! Maybe I should have connected the outer end first? Or re-compress the spring, remove the outer wishbone fixings to allow some lateral movement of the strut to engage the driveshaft studs at both ends?

All advice gratefully received!
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PostPost by: Higs » Sat Jun 28, 2014 9:33 am

englshmaninwales

Have just fitted them to my plus 2. A bit of a struggle but they went on. You need to fit the outboard end first as the studs are a bit longer than those on the inboard end.

Since fitting, I have also changed a lower wishbone so can confirm that you could also release the outer lowe wishbone bolts, fit the CV's and then redo the wishbone bolts.

Hope this helps

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PostPost by: alan » Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:34 pm

the outer studs are longer because they need to go through the Brake disk also the spider. Inside only spider, so shorter :wink:
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