Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

..I replaced all four joints with new ones from a local Auto-factor and they are much better now.

I suspect the joints I bought are still cheap far eastern items but they were not expensive and came with a 2 year guarantee.

I couldn't find any genuine GKN joints except for one on Ebay - I will look out for genuine ones and snap them up singly when I see them.

Jon

Having noticed that I currently have a slight split in one of the Rotoflex coupling on my S4 elan I thought I would do some searching on the option of Solid Driveshafts rather than replace the Rotoflex.
The ElanTrikbits are not available at present so I was looking at Kelsports option which I know requires the Anti droop option of new dampers.

The one question I have is regarding the Kelsport option of the UJ with the sliding shaft. looking on the web site it doesn't mention the need for new dampers to offset any droop issues.

Does anyone have these (or the Tony Thompson Racing option) fitted and if so what are your thoughts on them. Only going to go down this route once so would like to make an educated decision if possible.

Thanks
Rob P

My personal recommendation would be to wait and get the ElanTrikBits system. I promise you it will be worth the wait. The car feels great with the system fitted, but the best bit is that you don't need to add weight or change anything on the car ( which will cost you extra money ) as this is the only system whereby you can keep the car totally standard without spending extra money on anti droop measures or different springs / shocks etc. etc. as the system allows the full compliancy and suspension travel that you're used to...

Hope this helps!

I have fitted TTR solid driveshafts a few years ago, and used a simple loop of stainless cable as anti-droop system since (I did not want to mess with my new konis that are just fine, afraid of not being able to change the setting if shortened) : so far nothing to complain about...

I have TTR's sliding shaft and special anti droop shocks. I've driven about 1500 miles with them installed and really like them. No issues at all and I drive roads that really test the suspension travel.

Well finally took the plunge and purchased a set of TTR solid drive shafts, looked at the Elantrikbits but they didn't have any units available and with no specific date for availability on the web site I had to give them a miss.
Whilst I was getting this work done I decided to install the travel reduction Koni Rear dampers and I also purchased a set of Front Shockers as well.
Only taken the car out for a short drive since picking it up but it does seem to have less of the wind up and certainly a firmer ride. Currently have the front shockers set on 6 clicks as per the paperwork that came with them which is the setting for Road use.

Only concern I have is the car now sits very different to the original set up as per the pictures below. Picture 1 is original picture 2 is new set up



Worried about tyres scrubbing the arches, anyone else fitted TTR's front Shockers and if so what setting are you running?

Rob P wrote:Worried about tyres scrubbing the arches, anyone else fitted TTR's front Shockers and if so what setting are you running?

If none of the suspension arms have been altered, I would not worry more about scrubbing the arches than before : the suspension can always travel to the stop on a bump, if it did not touch the wheel arch before it should not touch now (clearance at the static position is only one point along the travel of the wheel).

regarding the ride height (I assume that is your concern pictured by the before and after photos, though the after does not look bad to me), it may be that a different shock cartridge had added some springiness (e.g. gaz loaded shock), in which case body height may have increased a bit. I would first check if it is now according to specs (from memory 15 cm front and 15.2 cm rear at the suspension axis). If there is a tilt you want to remove, unless you have adjustable perches, you may need to compensate by inserting spacers below the springs of the points where the body is too low.

Thanks for the feedback, just taken the car out for a run and definitely scrubbing the arches on full lock.
When you say spacers need to be fitted is that a simple job or do I need my friendly mechanic to be engaged

Just to add that having read quick a fair few posts on the topic I am totally confused, some posts say there isn't any way to alter the ride height, others say you need adjustable shocks but then others say adjusting the spring compression on adjustable shocks makes no difference to the ride height.

The gap from the sill to the floor on the rear is 6 inches which seems to be the right measurement, again according to some posts. The front however is just under 5 inches which seems really low to me.
I've also seen a post from Rohan who I respect on this forum for his technical knowledge which says that there are Lotus Elans out there which show signs of cracking on the front arch because under full lock and body roll that Elans are prone to hitting the arch.

Really concerned now so might see if Ollie at Phoenix can take a look

Unless I've missed something, it would be the front that is too low now rather than the rear too high then : I'm not sure how that would have happened by just changing the shock, unless the previous front were gas loaded (with springiness embedded) and were replaced by non springy shocks, which would leave you either with tired springs or too short springs not providing enough body height at the front.

Luckily the front is easier to fiddle with, a quick fix could be to insert spacers below or above the springs to raise the body by the desired height (careful measurement in appropriate condition, e.g. half tank and driver in), from what you describe something like an alloy tube about 1 inch tall (just fitting smoothly on the shock for inner diameter, 3-4mm wall thickness, then a perch to hold the spring, possibly with a centering portion for the spring).

Regarding wheel arches fouling, if it rubs now it could have done before just the same, only under different driving conditions (like with passenger, in a curve on uneven pavement) : depending how bad it rubs, it may be worth fixing the issue before fiberglass repairs become necessary... if reducing the width of inner arches lips is not enough, you may have to mount tires of a different profile.

PS: you'll find several posts in the forum dealing with ride height. Some people measure body clearance (e.g. at the fiberglass straight hedge on the side), but I prefer to look at the wishbones and check that they are horizontal (for proper suspension operation). In that case I use the center of the pivot bolt for height reference.

pps: fitting spacers at the front should not be difficult if you can take out and dismantle the front spring/shock assembly - it is likely that you will need the spacer machined for your specific need, though (using a lathe).

Lots of potential issues and more data needed to diagnose whats going on.

The car is to low at the front for a standard road car in the after photo but looked OK in the before photo

If fitting new front shocks caused this then what exactly was changed?

# did you change the springs or reuse the existing ones
# If they were new what was the specification
# if reused the existing ones what was the specification

# when changing the shocks what were the old ones and what were the new ones
# did either have adjustable spring platforms
# if fixed platforms were the spring platforms in the same location versus the bottom eye on the shock on both
# was the distance from the top spring locating flange to the point where the chassis flange fits between the two rubbers on the shock rod the same.

Low ride height at the front can make tyre rubbing occur in more circumstances than it normal does but different tyre sizes also give you more or less problems. What size tyres are you using and are you wheels and hubs all standard ?

cheers
Rohan

Thanks for the feedback, took the car into the garage today after chatting with TTR who were really helpful, Adjusted the springs to create more ride height and after some tweaking we appear to have a decent clearance without the car riding too high.
Took the car out for a spirited drive around some country lanes and there now appears to be no scrubbing on either wheel so really happy with the final outcome. Perhaps I was in panic mode as we have a trip to the lakes with the North West Club Lotus guys and really needed to be in the Lotus
Picture below with the car at the new ride height which I think looks OK.

Think I will leave well alone for now and just enjoy the car with the new Ride set up and Solid Drive shafts and then give it a good check over after the trip to the lakes to check bolts and nuts are still tight.
Again thanks for the feedback, really appreciated

Hi Rob
I like the stance of your car after adjustments. What size tires are you using?
Regards
Chris

seniorchristo wrote:Hi Rob
I like the stance of your car after adjustments. What size tires are you using?
Regards
Chris

Hi Chris,
I am running what I believe to be stock tires on the car, 155/80/13 all round.
Regards
Rob P

I sourced my front shock's from RD. Ray said they are Tony Thomson shocks. They came with adjustable damping and adjustable spring platforms but everything completely relaxed. I'm betting that they just need the spring's tightened up.

Kurt.

Hi Kurt,
That was indeed what the garage did to raise the ride height, car has now been on a lakes trip and the car is fine with no scrubbing of the front wheels at all.
Rob P