Anti sizzle gear lever assembly

[Witofthestaircase]

Checking against the parts list it appears that I'm missing a pair of lock nuts and lock washers. But do I have the correct sleeve nut and, for that matter, bush itself?

Referring to my first picture the lower part of the shaft above the hemisphere has three diameters: 5/8" clearance which appears to locate the spring; 1/2" clearance which fits the metal cup hole; 3/8" (larger than the ID of the bush) and finally a 5/16" UNF thread for the sleeve nut.

At the top of the 3/8" section there is a cross drilling which I imagine is for a roll or split pin referred to as 'pin' in the parts list. My sleeve nut is unlike the one in the parts list in that it is un-shouldered. Its overall length is 0.8" and its sleeve diameter 0.435" The ID of the bush in the upper part is around 0.44" so the nut sleeve and bush do fit together. But can anyone tell me how is the cross drilling and pin made use of? And do I have the correct bush and sleeve nut? The bush is flush with the bottom of tube part of the chromed lever and 1/4" shy of its top. Finally, have I understood the parts book exploded drawing in thinking that I'm missing two nuts and washers? Let me know if I can explain better or show more pictures! Many thanks, Russell

[oldelanman]

From the workshop manual ........ two (thick) washers, bush and sleeve nut .... that's how mine is assembled.I have no cross drilling and the threaded section looks to be shorter than yours so maybe there was a change to later cars.

[elanman999]

Russell,
The split pin hole is for a +2 which has a different gear lever, well my 68 +2 does. It's not a very good picture but you should get the idea.
Cheers
John

[oldelanman]

Hi Russell,
The nylon cap retains the spring and cup washer.
The two washers which clamp the bush are identical and are a snug fit on both the stub lever and the sleeve nut, the O/D is about 2mm less than the "eye" of the upper part of the gear lever where the bush sits - that clearance is important so the two parts of the lever are isolated, connected only by the rubber bush. I'm afraid I can't measure the washers as it's all back together now. If you can't get the correct washers it should be simple enough to make something up to do the job.

Edit..... Russell, I see you have deleted your question while I was composing this reply, so ignore this if it's irrelevant now.

[Witofthestaircase]

Hi Roger I deleted my post because with a bit more thought I'd answered my own question - and your elaboration of the role of the thick washers answers its replacement - so your reply is much appreciated Thank you

[Concrete-crusher]

I have just fitted an anti sizzle gear lever and notice the threaded stub is the same as the non drilled picture below and shorter than the drilled version , it also means the thread does not come all the way through the locking nut.

I have tightened to 18lbs and added a drop of thread lock , but am worried it will come loose ?

Is this a common problem or does it stay put generally

Steve

[Grizzly]

Mine was a pain, because of the crank on the lever anyone slightly too aggressive putting it in reverse would loosen the nut. Be aware that it's common for people to over tighten the nut to stop it coming loose and they do snap off fairly easy.

In the end a mix of the anti sizzle assembly not fitting properly in the rubber cover (kept popping out of the securing plate fixed to the floor), loosening the securing nut every time i drove the car in any sort of bad mood (which is every other day for me) and the new rubber bush being too soft in my opinion making the gear selector vague made me get rid and fit a solid lever.

The difference is frankly night and day. I was originally put off by the sizzle / vibration rumors but if you use the correct cup with the lever it's fine, it's only when you fit the cup made for a ferrule without one the hole in the cup is too big causing it to vibrates on the selector shaft.

[prezoom]

I have a cross pin in my Plus2 shift lever. It is there to prevent the rotation of the shift lever. With the actual portion of the shift lever that connects to the shift knob, there is the ability to have additional force at the point of rotation on the shaft coming up from the gearbox. Direct connection on a non-sizzle shift reduces the lever action of the anti- sizzle assembly. Put a roll pin in there and the shift lever will become more positive.