Lotus Elan

CV drive axles Don't let them sag

PostPost by: SubaruPaul » Wed Nov 23, 2011 10:52 pm

Purchased from RD Ent. , may apply to others. You guys know which are similar , I'm just passing thru helping my friend on his '67.

Boot can and sometimes will pull out. Jack the car and support the wishbone or as you wish so that the axle cannot take too strong of an angle.

The boot we had trouble with was on the inboard end. The boots are tucked into a collar flange which is pressed down to secure about 1/8 inch of the rubber , mybe a little less. Not so ideal in my opinion but its a generally good product. We're interupted now but in the process of re-setting the boot. I've opened up the flange working a flathead screwdriver around. Contemplating using maybe a Loctite Super glue I saw today to assist. First items listed were metal and rubber on the glue package. Anyhow ,we'll be setting the boot in and crimping the flange back down using a C-clamp and something with a radius help sqaush is neatly.

So , why are these made without bands securing the boots?
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Thu Nov 24, 2011 12:14 pm

Yep! I've had several boots pull out of their metal flanges over the years as a result of sagging. All have been the inners. I'm thinking of fitting these areodynamic boots from Pegasus Racing: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... RecID=5549 to see if it makes a difference. The design just looks better to resist the boot pulling out.

If that doesn't work, I'm going to fit limiting cables.

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PostPost by: SubaruPaul » Thu Nov 24, 2011 1:10 pm

These are new so we're going to hope these , and this repair , last a good many years. You check that price lately? You guys got it tough compared to my cheapo Japanese boxers.

Sound like I'm doing the right thing with my repair? Did you use any glue to help? What did you use to crimp the flange back down? I'd like it to look like nothing was done from the outside since the owner deserves to see a new product being these axles have less than an hour of local , low speed travel on them.

We're also going to use a wire tie or possibly metal band around the outer end of that boot to hopefully keep it from sliding back.

Why aren't axle shafts recessed , or given a bump stop at that point so you could anchor that end and feel confident that it won't slide down the shaft at all? Maybe not necessary but it sure would help.

And why not an external fastening system on the inboard end?

So when you re-grease these do you just pull back the collar while the axle is on the car or take it down and do it on a bench? I'm shy to touch these collars and boots now. Thanks!
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Thu Nov 24, 2011 3:00 pm

I didn't do any repairs on mine. In some cases the rubber ripped. I've just always replaced.

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PostPost by: ceejay » Thu Nov 24, 2011 8:25 pm

Hey Guys.
I find the trouble outlined above about CV boots pulling out of the steel shell quite strange.
I have never known a Lobro CV boot to pull out yet, our customers have never reported
this problem, and I am positive that they wont.

Our CV drive shafts are designed to be able to withstand a greater working angle than all
other CV drive shafts on the market, we very rarely hear from customers once the installation
has been done.

If the boots are genuine GKN Lobro items, then maybe there was a manufacturing fault
with some, then again, the ones in question could be cheap who flung dung items??

If the rubber boot has pulled from the metal flange pressing you will have fun
returning it to original position, bin it, and arrange (buy) a replacement.

The outer end of the boot should not be clamped tight on the axle, it should float,
or be allowed to "slide" a little and make automatic adjustments for reach.

If a CV drive shaft is designed and built correctly then you wont have problems, and
if you are lucky enough to have an elantrikbits conversion, you certainly DO NOT
require suspension limiting cables or straps.

If you have not watched our youtube vid then check it out now:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfuqmifnEPU
Col.
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PostPost by: twincamman » Fri Nov 25, 2011 2:30 am

Looks like a V W bug split boot may work there ..and FWIW everthing I have is starting to sag -----.ed
Last edited by twincamman on Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: SubaruPaul » Fri Nov 25, 2011 4:16 pm

OK well in the video I see wire ties on the ends of the boots , right? Curious about that.

These were ordered from RD Ent. and are too new to discard. Exactly who mfg's these for him you guys know better than me. Are these axles from you , ceejay?

I've trimmed the end of the boot and am confident I'll be able to insert the it into the flange as deep as was done from the manufacturer. I'll do my best to crimp that flange and knowing my work efforts it'll come out as best as can be done with what we have. No way is this owner going to want to toss the axle over a boot.

I'd throw a split boot over it but there's no way the owner will allow that and rightfully so. He deserves a new axle as he paid good money for. I'll do my best to make it look and function new again.
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PostPost by: ceejay » Fri Nov 25, 2011 8:44 pm

subarupaul.
No, we have no connection to RD, SM, or any other.

The problem you have with boot pulling out may cost you more in time
than ordering a new one... boots are only about $15.00 tops.

It is strange for the rubber to pull out as the rolled crimp
on the metal shell makes it almost impossible for the rubber to
part company (GKN Lobro).

I suggest that you discuss the problem with the RD people,
if this happened to one of our conversions I would replace.

I don't think it has anything to do with the axle, just that you've
struck a bad batch of boots... it can happen to the best.... but shouldn't,
if they have good QC in place.

Good luck with the fix
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PostPost by: twincamman » Fri Nov 25, 2011 9:16 pm

try tie wraps in place of screw clamps to lock the boot on they always worked well for me --the fat wide ones -ed
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PostPost by: jfornarola » Sat Nov 26, 2011 5:06 pm

Paul,

I too purchased CV's from RD Ent. Seems like a good product and the RD is knowledgeable and easy to work with. I also try to keep the CV's from full deflection. One item I discovered upon receipt was that one of the four CV's was not greased. I normally inspect all new parts for proper function/assembly prior to installation. I'm not sure if everyone performs such checks but just in case, an inspection is well worth the time.

John
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PostPost by: SubaruPaul » Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:46 pm

Neglected to take pics but we''ll get some soon, We used Loctite Super Glue , one of the latest that states it will bond metal and Rubber. Giving it a night to set and we;ll decide if its wirth trying to crimp the metal back down.
Feels good already, Giving it 24 hours before we go back at it.
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PostPost by: SubaruPaul » Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:59 pm

Axel repaired - waiting on test run.

We used a Loctite super glue new product which was stated to be a "professional" choice for metal and rubber. That boot is holding in there quite well. We chose NOT to crimp the flange back down since the bonding seems so outstanding like something NASA did. :D

We here are thrifty New Englanders so no frikkin way were we trashing a new axle over a yanked boot. Your budget , maybe , and good for you for having those pockets so deep. Just ain't happenin' here.

Don't forget guys , I'm a friend helping , not a shop charging rate. Sure it took some time but boy did we have fun !!!! :lol: :wink:

Shout of thanks to local guy Carlos who I know is one this board. Good deal with the jacks and lifting plate/assistant.
8)
Cheers!
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PostPost by: twincamman » Mon Dec 12, 2011 3:59 pm

NOW DO WE USE GREASE OR OIL IN THE SPLINES??????E
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PostPost by: SubaruPaul » Tue Dec 13, 2011 4:05 pm

:lol:
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