CV Question

PostPost by: slowsprinter » Fri Sep 16, 2011 6:33 pm

All

My job for this weekend is to fit my new Mick Miller driveshafts to my restoration project. Something in the instructions has me a little concerned.

It says not to fit the shafts on full droop as irreparable damage could result. My chassis is on axle stands so I intend to use ratchet straps to compress the legs as much as I can. However I need to detach the A frames from the struts to give me enough clearance to get the Cv studs in. This makes the whole thing a bit unstable. Is there a better way?

Also is it ok, when the cv's are fitted to release the compression to full droop whilst I do other jobs or should I sit the back end on its wheels to put some weight on it all? What damage can be done to the CV's if fitted when in full droop?

I hope all this makes sense!

Ian.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slowsprinter/
Lagoon Blue over White 1972 Sprint DHC
slowsprinter
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 110
Joined: 20 Nov 2009

PostPost by: jimj » Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:05 pm

When I fitted mine I unbolted the hub upright from the wishbone and swung the dangling strut out to pop them in. I don`t know how you could do otherwise and there were no ill effects.
Jim
jimj
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 1119
Joined: 25 Feb 2008

PostPost by: slowsprinter » Sat Sep 17, 2011 8:15 am

Jim

Thanks for your answer Jim. Thats the conclusion I have arrived at, I can't think of any other way to do it. Can you confirm you did yours with the springs un-compressed? I may be able to compress the suspension leg somewhat with ratchet straps to narrow the angle for the driveshafts a little. It looks like I am going to need to move my adjustable spring seats up about half an inch too, because the brake disc will foul them otherwise.

Ian
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slowsprinter/
Lagoon Blue over White 1972 Sprint DHC
slowsprinter
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 110
Joined: 20 Nov 2009

PostPost by: UAB807F » Sat Sep 17, 2011 4:37 pm

Ian,
I fitted mine last winter and it sounds like I did the same as Jim. My instructions also said about damage and full droop so like yourself I was concerned, especially as at one point I slipped and the driveshaft went to quite an angle, which looked bad and was most likely a full droop condition. I removed the shaft and felt the joints to see if anything had popped out of place but it seemed smooth enough to me so I just put it all back. Once the studs were in in place I dropped it back on it's wheels & tightened everything up working from a garage pit, and despite everything it's been fine.
Brian
User avatar
UAB807F
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 725
Joined: 20 Dec 2010

PostPost by: jimj » Sat Sep 17, 2011 4:48 pm

No, I didn`t compress the springs.
Jim
jimj
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 1119
Joined: 25 Feb 2008

PostPost by: slowsprinter » Sat Sep 17, 2011 4:53 pm

Thanks Chaps

Gives me confidence to press on.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slowsprinter/
Lagoon Blue over White 1972 Sprint DHC
slowsprinter
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 110
Joined: 20 Nov 2009

PostPost by: zog » Sat Sep 17, 2011 10:26 pm

SPAX makes a shorter stroke shock that limits the spring travel. You put them on and you wont be so droopy anymore. RD sells them in the US.
zog
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 233
Joined: 15 Nov 2003

PostPost by: slowsprinter » Sun Sep 18, 2011 5:21 pm

All done. Thanks for you input fellas. I did the job holding the suspension legs in as much compression as I could get using ratchet straps. I find now that if the diff flange is turned it gives intermittant drive through each driveshaft to each wheel hub. I hope this is normal! I suppose I was expecting constant drive.

I think and hope this is caused by the newness of the CV joints and being held in semi droop.

Ian
http://www.flickr.com/photos/slowsprinter/
Lagoon Blue over White 1972 Sprint DHC
slowsprinter
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 110
Joined: 20 Nov 2009

Total Online:

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 24 guests