Lotus Elan

CV Question

PostPost by: slowsprinter » Fri Sep 16, 2011 6:33 pm

All

My job for this weekend is to fit my new Mick Miller driveshafts to my restoration project. Something in the instructions has me a little concerned.

It says not to fit the shafts on full droop as irreparable damage could result. My chassis is on axle stands so I intend to use ratchet straps to compress the legs as much as I can. However I need to detach the A frames from the struts to give me enough clearance to get the Cv studs in. This makes the whole thing a bit unstable. Is there a better way?

Also is it ok, when the cv's are fitted to release the compression to full droop whilst I do other jobs or should I sit the back end on its wheels to put some weight on it all? What damage can be done to the CV's if fitted when in full droop?

I hope all this makes sense!

Ian.
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PostPost by: jimj » Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:05 pm

When I fitted mine I unbolted the hub upright from the wishbone and swung the dangling strut out to pop them in. I don`t know how you could do otherwise and there were no ill effects.
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PostPost by: slowsprinter » Sat Sep 17, 2011 8:15 am

Jim

Thanks for your answer Jim. Thats the conclusion I have arrived at, I can't think of any other way to do it. Can you confirm you did yours with the springs un-compressed? I may be able to compress the suspension leg somewhat with ratchet straps to narrow the angle for the driveshafts a little. It looks like I am going to need to move my adjustable spring seats up about half an inch too, because the brake disc will foul them otherwise.

Ian
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PostPost by: UAB807F » Sat Sep 17, 2011 4:37 pm

Ian,
I fitted mine last winter and it sounds like I did the same as Jim. My instructions also said about damage and full droop so like yourself I was concerned, especially as at one point I slipped and the driveshaft went to quite an angle, which looked bad and was most likely a full droop condition. I removed the shaft and felt the joints to see if anything had popped out of place but it seemed smooth enough to me so I just put it all back. Once the studs were in in place I dropped it back on it's wheels & tightened everything up working from a garage pit, and despite everything it's been fine.
Brian
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PostPost by: jimj » Sat Sep 17, 2011 4:48 pm

No, I didn`t compress the springs.
Jim
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PostPost by: slowsprinter » Sat Sep 17, 2011 4:53 pm

Thanks Chaps

Gives me confidence to press on.
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PostPost by: zog » Sat Sep 17, 2011 10:26 pm

SPAX makes a shorter stroke shock that limits the spring travel. You put them on and you wont be so droopy anymore. RD sells them in the US.
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PostPost by: slowsprinter » Sun Sep 18, 2011 5:21 pm

All done. Thanks for you input fellas. I did the job holding the suspension legs in as much compression as I could get using ratchet straps. I find now that if the diff flange is turned it gives intermittant drive through each driveshaft to each wheel hub. I hope this is normal! I suppose I was expecting constant drive.

I think and hope this is caused by the newness of the CV joints and being held in semi droop.

Ian
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