Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

I've managed to set up a new gallery and load a couple of images onto it. One of them shows the back set up with TTR driveshaft and Spyder strut. I'll see what else I can find.

Regards,

Hamish.

Hamish Coutts wrote:I don't really understand all this full droop stuff either. Nor do I notice any jaming/baulking when I am working on the car while it is on axle stands and the suspension is at full droop. .

If a problem does occur it is more likely to happen to the two seater Elan then the Plus Two due to the shorter shafts on the two seater.
Brian

Splines will only bind up under torque i.e. you need to be accelerating hard (or possibly with engine braking?), as well as having the suspension at full droop. You will not notice anything when the car is on axle stands, unless they are REALLY badly neglected...!

I am happy with doughnuts myself.... (road-going S4 & +2S130/5)

Matthew

Re: making up kit. Would not bother either. I got some parts for sliding spline and UJ's type and thought I would be smart and have a couple of sets made up. With the 3 to 4 bolt adaptor plates and shaft shorten work it cost me dear. No even put them together yet. Bought some TTR ones. Only done about 200 mile yet. No had a real blat around yet, too wet. Seem very nice, with zero surge. Bit bothered about the natural play in the transmission when you pull off. Ever so slight tick tick noise as it take up drive. Do nuts did not do this but am sure they did soften off. Only did 600miles over 2 years. Began to surge like hell, though no sign of breaking up.

I have lent some Spyder ones (CV and Do nut.) I am going to try them next year as I think the spyder ones may get rid of the tick tick drive take up. The anti-flail/surge ring may not allow the do nut to move as much so I may use the TTR ones on a track car I am building and have the Sypder on the road Elan. My biggest worry was a break and the flail around my Arse. My two pence worth.

Mike S4DHC

OK Brian, I take your point. I wasn't sure if all this baulking stuff applied to a +2.

I think the TTR 'shafts are very good and miles ahead of the so called 'rubber' doughnuts. If was starting again I would go down the same route.

Regards,

Hamish.

Brian loved the photo's of the drive shafts did you use floating joints both ends & what are the caps in the adaptors are they core plugs

Ian

elansprint wrote: did you use floating joints both ends & what are the caps in the adaptors are they core plugs

Yes Ian, they were both the floating type (plunging C.V.'s I believe is the techanical name) the caps are core plugs (welsh plugs) from the rear of a Kent 1600 block.... 2" diameter.
Brian

Hi,
Thanks

just another question...
TTR is selling 2 kits :
- a teflon coated sliding splne with universal joints ,
- a cv type.
TTR recommends strongly the first one for my car (+2S 130/5)

What do you think about that ?

regards
J?r?me

With the orginal armstrong rear shocks in position and the car up on axle stands the UJs on my TTR sliding spline axles would lock up completely (and that was on a +2)! It mentions in the literature that you get with the kit that you can grind away at the the UJ to relieve this. I did this on one side, and then after realising that my shocks were actually shot, bought a set to TTR shocks. The axles don't bind with these at all!
Cheers
tim

Jerome,

fistly appologies for not searching for the correct letters fr you name. All I have readily at hand are ? ? ? ?.
I have fitted TT sliding spline UJ shafts & dampers to my S4 they are well made and am very happy with them. They do need to be greased regularly as does the prop' shaft and the front trunnions so this is not really a problem once you are under the car. Prior to these I bought the Spyder donut/CV shafts complete as a package with their chassis & suspension. I decided not to fit the suspension or the shafts. The welds between the flanges & the shafts looked a bit agricultural so I sold the whole lot on because the engine in my Elan produces a lot of torque. Mick Miller introduced his CV shafts a bit later. I saw them at Donington, they looked very tidy with lightweight aluminium flanges (TT's UJ's are steel and heavy). Problem was, the alloy flanges were tapped with UNF threads, I would have preferred UNC into Aluminium. (I believe the later ones have UNC). I think you will find the TT CV shafts will be practically identical to MM's but with UNC threads. Why not give them a call. They sell the UJ shafts to satisfy the FIA historic racing regulations.
Hope this info' is of some help.
John

I know that TT's prejudice against the CV system is the fact that the flanges are aluminium. He is worried about whether they could distort under load.
I have heard no evidense for this on any of the forums, but I guess its a possibility?
Cheers
tim

Can any one tell me how to fit these cv joint axles?
Is it necessary to remove the diff?
the unit I bought has two cv's and a specially incorporated diff output shaft which replaces the original diff output shaft.

I can not wait to fit this system but I am awaiting the arrival of new koni shocks.
cheers

Robin

Most of the systems are very easy to fit, just remove the current donuts & shafts & put the new shafts in their place. The only problem I had was my output shafts had the failsafe prong in the middle which wouldn't fit with the flat aluminium end plate on the MM shafts. So I just cut the prong off and they fitted fine. However if you have to replace the diff output shafts that could be quite tricky underneath the car (I couldn't get one side out at all even though I already had the diff out)
Which system have you gone for Robin?
Rick

I've put a pic of TTR driveshafts with TTR Koni shocks on the gallery - jacked up on a trolley jack, they dont touch, bump or lock up at full droop, I think, maybe, The TTR shocks could be shorter/restricted drop..... also ..... I've yet to drive them!

Thanks a lot,
I'll order at TTR the teflon coated sliding splne kit.
regards
I have