Which driceshaft conversion kit ?

PostPost by: trarker » Wed Nov 23, 2005 5:00 pm

Hi,
I have to replace my rotoflex, I'm interested by a driveshaft conversion. I don't know which kit I'll choose between TTR, PMatty and spyder kits.
What do you think about these kits, which is the best ?
regards
Jerome
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PostPost by: tdafforn » Wed Nov 23, 2005 5:14 pm

Hi,
I installed the TTR sliding spline system a few years ago..
Works fine, with no problems.
Only issue is that you really need droop limited rear shocks to prevent the UJs binding at full droop.
Cheers
tim
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PostPost by: blueseamonkey » Wed Nov 23, 2005 5:14 pm

Didn't know Matty's did a kit, but the Mick Miller one is better than the Spyder in my opinion. Haven't tried the TTR, don't know if anyone on here has compared it to any of the others (most people only tend to buy one and stick with it from what I've seen - none of the options are cheap)
Rick
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PostPost by: curly type 26 » Wed Nov 23, 2005 8:03 pm

Hi have fitted TTR rear end to my s2 elan the quality is tops no more worries about drive shafts popping up through your boot lid none of these conversions are cheap but with the current poor quality of doughnuts it wont take long to recoup costs :D Colin
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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Wed Nov 23, 2005 8:17 pm

The Spyder drive shaft uses a doughut at one end so it seems a bit daft fitting that to get rid of the original driveshafts/doughnuts. You would really only ? cure the problem. :(
I fitted TTR units to my +2 and am really happy with them. They ain't cheap, are 'robust' (heavy) but are smooth and bliss, none of that damned surge. :lol:

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PostPost by: types26/36 » Wed Nov 23, 2005 9:18 pm

I made up a couple of sets of c.v. shafts although I have only fitted them to my S2 (the other set is for the Sprint) I think they are great, no surge/wind up and the car is more driveably (haven't done much mileage though) slight binding in full droop which appears to be getting less.
pics at http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/type26 ... /my_photos
A friend of mine had the type with universal joints and sliding splines which would lock up under full droop, he changed to 2 x c.v.'s and is very happy.
Before people say how easy/cheap is it to make them, well in retrospect I would not do it again, it is very time consuming and a fair amount of machine shop facilities are required, its worth the price just to go out and buy them.
Brian
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PostPost by: SADLOTUS » Wed Nov 23, 2005 9:31 pm

Sue Miller CV set looks good.
Any of you TTR owners greased and dismantled the driveshafts as per instructions yet?
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Wed Nov 23, 2005 10:06 pm

I fitted the Mick Miller kit which is very good

I'm pretty sure Paul Matty supplies the same kit
John

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PostPost by: berni29 » Thu Nov 24, 2005 2:43 am

Hi Guys

I will be buying some in the future and they will be the Mick Miller ones.

Berni
Zetec+ 2 under const, also 130S. And another 130S for complete restoration. Previously Racing green +2s with green tints. Yellow +2 and a couple of others, all missed. Great to be back 04/11/2021 although its all starting to get a bit out of control.
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PostPost by: pmallinson » Thu Nov 24, 2005 5:49 am

Hi

I have just purchased a +2 s 130 and I am very interested in fitting different driveshafts I have details of the Mick Miller ones and the Spyder ones but could anyone please post details or email me about the TTR & Matty ones and where I can get info to compare or purchase them

Thanks

Peter Mallinson

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PostPost by: cliveyboy » Thu Nov 24, 2005 7:59 am

I am intrigued (unconvinced) by the constant reference to binding at full droop.
How many of you are running TTR shafts (or any others) and have had full droop on a public road?
Clive
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Thu Nov 24, 2005 8:26 am

It is unlikely it would occur on the road except under very extream conditions but
the fact that it "could" happen and the damage that "could" result is enough to make it a consideration.
Brian
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PostPost by: Dag-Henning » Thu Nov 24, 2005 8:40 am

Have raced the TT shafts for 1,5 years. Nice bits. Greasing is no problem.
First time out I thought my heart would stop, as the UJs touched the frame ( under the uprights) during really hard cornering, as I had set the ride-height a little to low......( - maybe this is not possible on a +2..??)

Dag
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PostPost by: tdafforn » Thu Nov 24, 2005 9:24 am

As to full droop on the TTR setup...
I drive over a humped-back bridge reasonable regularly, and when I am in a hurry the rear suspension gets pretty close to full droop :D
As to greasing, its on this seasons list of jobs..
If anyone wants some picture of the TTR setup pre and post installation let me know..
Cheers
Tim
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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:25 pm

I don't really understand all this full droop stuff either. OK, I've only done a few thousand miles since fitting the TTR driveshafts but I have not encountered any problems while playing hard a couple of times. Nor do I notice any jaming/baulking when I am working on the car while it is on axle stands and the suspension is at full droop. :?

When I work out how to post an image on this excellent forum I'll do so. It shows the back suspension of my +2 just after I had fitted the TTRs and Spyder struts.

Regards,

Hamish.
"One day I'll finish the restoration - honest, darling, just a few more years....."
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