Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

I'm just at the point where I only need to remove the engine mount screws to lift it out.

In the past I've always removed the cylinder head prior to the pull, but this time I don't need to or want to waste the head gasket.

I seem to remember a thread some time ago that said the engine with gearbox can't be removed with the head in place. Can anyone verify this as fact or fiction?

Although I pulled more engine and gearboxes together then I have installed, I have done it both ways. The Elan frame mounts for the engine make it a joy when ever one plays the engine extraction game. Its possible to get them both in one go and most times its the way I pull them. At a minimum the shifter needs to be removed (stub on the later boxes) and you are better off to pull the shifter and the casting for the shift mechanisum if you can the 4 bolts out. I have a few gouges in the top of the fiberglass tunnel but its fiberglass and I have a bit of practice with fixing that stuff.

Lots of past talk (I guess you knew this was coming).

http://www.lotuselan.net/cgi-bin/search ... oom_sort=0

This one seems like its got some info.

elan-f14/pulling-the-motor-t19538.html

Brian did you read my question on new blocks?
elan-f15/ford-kent-engine-back-production-t19684-45.html

Gary
Found this in the main area of Lotuselan.net





yup, nothing has changed!

Of course on a (modified) chassis like the Spyder its a whole lot easier to pull them as the engine mounts don't make you feel like Ed describes the process. It just slips in, Well that?s a relative term I guess, the expletives are a lot less anyway.

garyeanderson wrote:Brian did you read my question on new blocks?

Yes Gary, I did read it and fully intended to call the local supplier this week to chase up delivery dates, but other things seemed to get in the way. I will definitely call them on Monday. I will reply on that thread.

I have at least twice pulled out the full engine with its head and the gearbox together (but not the carbs), and replaced them the same way. You need quite a high lift device; mine is a ring in the roof of my garage with a six-strand pulley hoist.

Also you have to arrange the slings so that you can tilt the engine sideways part way through the process.
Don't forget to first drain the oil from the gearbox, as otherwise it all pours out of the back end.

Hi Brian,

Do you have a removeable x member? If so I found it very simple to do. But I took the motor and left the (now out also) gearbox in place. Took the carbs off and the Exh' manifolds, starter, and the N/S engine mount. It lifted out clean as a whistle.No issues at all..

Now to get it all back in....Hmmmmm...

Good luck Mate.

Al' ......

I pulled the engine out separately after the top of the gearbox kept catching on the transmission tunnel. I had the whole thing attached almost out, but it just wouldn't clear about a 1/4 inch at the tunnel. The head and carbs were still attached. After I separated the gearbox the whole thing came out very easy. But I am now at the point where I keep contemplating whether to try to put them back in together or separate...

Adi

I'm Going gearbox in 1st then motor Adi...

Hows the job going Brian? All ok mate?


Al' ......

alexblack13 wrote:I'm Going gearbox in 1st then motor Adi...

Hows the job going Brian? All ok mate?


Al' ......

The plan was to do it today but it was cold and pissisting down, and as I need to get the car out of the garage to get the unit to the workshop, I took the easy option and delayed the plan until Tuesday afternoon.
Getting too old - not like the good old days when a foot of snow would have not been any sort of deterrent.

alexblack13 wrote:I'm Going gearbox in 1st then motor Adi...

Thanks Alex, my mind is now made up. If I trust anyone I trust you, and if it's good for you it will be for me.

HSS's hoist, which I rent for this stuff, is also a bit too short so not having to move the whole thing with the gearbox does make it much easier. In fact having a frame to suspend the engine from would make life so much easier instead of the hoist (which seems to have been made specifically for transverse engines).

Adi

Imperative to use a good clutch alignment tool Adi or you might struggle to get it to 'enter' correctly. Don't be tempted to try and 'draw' the box and engine together with bolts. Use them to line everything up and make sure bell housing is completely parallel with the block and feel for the engagement. You will feel it slip in. (said the bishop to the actress) Don't force it Adi.

use some light wire to hold the spacer plate on the dowels whilst fitting. On 'entry' remove the wire before bolting up. keep the mounting bolts out to allow one to lower the engine carefully down enough to get at the top fasteners Box to engine, and easier access to them all in fact. Tighten them then fit the mounting bolts, but loosely.. there is still a lot to fit. Manifolds for E.G.

Have you commandeered Father in laws ramp? I just would not be trying this without it...

Happy days...

Al' .....

adigra wrote:I pulled the engine out separately after the top of the gearbox kept catching on the transmission tunnel. I had the whole thing attached almost out, but it just wouldn't clear about a 1/4 inch at the tunnel. The head and carbs were still attached. After I separated the gearbox the whole thing came out very easy. But I am now at the point where I keep contemplating whether to try to put them back in together or separate...

Adi

At a guess you did not bring it far enough forward. (or didn't remove the gearbox support).

I don't think you can get the right twist/tilt of the engine with the carbs still on.

The front of the engine has to come up high enough to clear the vacuum tank & steering rack and to do this you have to lift & twist so that the engine mounts can come forward. Then you lift high and it looks terrifying because the engine & gear box are hanging almost vertical. Lift high enough for the tail end of the gearbox to clear the nose and then push the car out from under the engine. One person can lift the tail of the gearbox while others push the car out from under if you don't have enough height. Don't let it swing whatever you do as you could smash the windscreen.

Alex, wanna come to Yorkshire, all expenses and your time paid, and help me reassemble the car in February?!!

Bill, I attempted to do exactly what you suggest, but without removing the carbs, which must've been one of my failings. The gearbox would catch the tunnel, but I can see how twisting would've helped, which we didn't attempt. However, the hoist I had also couldn't lift the engine anywhere near vertical, so separating the 'box seemed like the only way.

PM Adi...

adigra wrote:Alex, wanna come to Yorkshire, all expenses and your time paid, and help me reassemble the car in February?!!

Bill, I attempted to do exactly what you suggest, but without removing the carbs, which must've been one of my failings. The gearbox would catch the tunnel, but I can see how twisting would've helped, which we didn't attempt. However, the hoist I had also couldn't lift the engine anywhere near vertical, so separating the 'box seemed like the only way.

The twisting is so that the bell housing can pass forward through the engine mounting brackets.

Possibly twisting it sideways a bit also means that a less high portion of the gearbox is in contact with the top of the firewall allowing the engine & gearbox to come further forward.

The procedure for removal WITH gearbox is in the Elan Workshop Manual Sect E chapter 4 in the old manual and for removal without gearbox Section E 26 in the newer manual

I see that the old manual says twist to the RIGHT, So I suspect that the rear carb if still mounted would still either hit the top of the footwell or jam on the inside of the engine compartment above the spark coil.