Lotus Elan

Gearbox swop?

PostPost by: trw99 » Fri Nov 05, 2010 1:39 pm

Alex

Am intrigued to know what happened in the 3 mins between your last two posts....job started, all seems well....oh hang on, need to see Andrew's set up!

I wish you well and look forward to following progress. I notice you have started this project on Bonfire Night; I hope that is not a sign of things to come as you progress!

Tim
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Fri Nov 05, 2010 2:21 pm

I've switched the battery off anyway Tim.. Always a good start.

Andrew kindly offered to let me check out the special carrier for the spigot bush. That's all basically.. Everything where possible will be st'd fit as per lotus did it..Hopefully! :roll:

Keep you all updated as I go along.. No rush mind! I wont have the gearbox back till mid Feb'..

Al' ..... 8)
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five spped box upgrade 007 [800x600].JPG and
I,ll be under here shortly!
five spped box upgrade 006 [800x600].JPG and
Rest are just sump off shots..

Easy job on the lift
five spped box upgrade 005 [800x600].JPG and
five spped box upgrade 004 [800x600].JPG and
five spped box upgrade 003 [800x600].JPG and
five spped box upgrade 002 [800x600].JPG and
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PostPost by: elans4dhc » Fri Nov 05, 2010 7:35 pm

Brian,

Alex has given me a lesson in uploading a picture with a post, so we'll find out how good he is as a teacher.

Below should be a picture of the spigot bearing housing.

Andrew
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P1020469a.jpg and
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:55 am

elans4dhc wrote:Brian,

Below should be a picture of the spigot bearing housing.

Andrew

Andrew,

All is now clear to me.

What is the length of the bearing? Is it the standard ?20x22mm? Does it have a seal at both ends?

Although it seems to me to be totally unnecessary to go to such lengths as the engagement with the standard crank method will be quite adequate for the purpose, I can see a potential technical benefit in having the bearing in the flywheel as it will eliminate some poosible tolerance build-up issues between the block and gearbox/bell housing.
To this end - lets have the dimensions of the housing.

(I've also thought of a couple of potential disadvantages - but I won't go into those now)

Maybe this could be a modification that will suit 4 & 5 speed box installations.


Comments on my thinking always welcome.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:53 am

Sounds good to me,I don't think I have one fitted and would make replacement a doddle if fitted in the flywheel...

John :wink:
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PostPost by: 69S4 » Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:54 am

Alex, slightly off topic, but looking at some of your sump off pics it looks like you've made the cross member detachable. I've got to face doing my water pump shortly and was wondering about doing it in situ by taking the head and sump off but the cross member looks like a problem. How have you engineered yours? Any problems?

BTW my windows are back to full functionality - the bolts are brilliant.
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Sat Nov 06, 2010 12:29 pm

69S4 wrote:Alex, slightly off topic, but looking at some of your sump off pics it looks like you've made the cross member detachable. I've got to face doing my water pump shortly and was wondering about doing it in situ by taking the head and sump off but the cross member looks like a problem. How have you engineered yours? Any problems?

Spyder will sell you the kit to do this.
You will need to have welding facilities to weld the location pieces onto the chassis.
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PostPost by: 69S4 » Sat Nov 06, 2010 2:49 pm

Thanks for that Brian. Hmm, if it involves welding bits to the chassis it might not be a route I want to go down. I'm ok at welding and have the kit so at least it makes me aware of the problems of jumping in with a hacksaw in one hand and a welding torch in the other. I'd probably want to take the engine out to do it, but if I do take the engine out I don't need to do it. :? :? I think I'll go and have a cup of coffee.
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:12 pm

Stuart,

You don't need to take the engine out.

Simply buy the kit from Spyder, drill a corresponding hole on each side of the chassis, bolt it up and weld on the chassis locators. Then you can cut the old fixed crossmember off.

30 minutes work - including the tea.
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sat Nov 06, 2010 5:04 pm

Hi Stuart,


I'll take some dimensional pic's for you tomorrow. Its not required to either drill the chassis, or indeed weld anything to it either if you don't want to, & I did not want to do this. But as I always say to each their own.

You do need to weld some inserts to the removed x member section which is drilled and tapped 8mm each side, and is fitted using 2 x 8mm dia fasteners (your choice) I used (HT) stainless and also put a locking nut on the underside also. Belts n braces. Pic's will explain..

I will do this by PM Stuart..

Anyone else wishing to go the no cost and no chassis drilling or welding route let me know and I will send you details too.

I have seen the Spyder effort and its fine. As well as the reasons above, I don't spend what I don't need to. :wink: :lol:

Alex B.... 8)
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PostPost by: Galwaylotus » Sat Nov 06, 2010 7:59 pm

alexblack13 wrote: As well as the reasons above, I don't spend what I don't need to. :wink: :lol:

Ahh! Spoken like a true Scot! Good man, yerself!!! :D 8)
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sat Nov 06, 2010 9:53 pm

Aye..Whataboutye!!

LOL... Well! Why spend when not required?

Now settle down you lot & get on with yer homework... :lol: :lol:

Al'...... 8)
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PostPost by: billwill » Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:51 pm

69S4 wrote:Alex, slightly off topic, but looking at some of your sump off pics it looks like you've made the cross member detachable. I've got to face doing my water pump shortly and was wondering about doing it in situ by taking the head and sump off but the cross member looks like a problem. How have you engineered yours? Any problems?

BTW my windows are back to full functionality - the bolts are brilliant.



I have done the water-pump in situ at a campsite once before. You do not need to remove the sump completely, just lower it about half inch. It does mean cutting bits of sump gasket to fit. Use some silicone sealer on the gasket, ( just enough, you do not want sealant lumps in the sump).
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Mon Nov 15, 2010 10:53 pm

Back to the spigot bearing in the flywheel.

I have two spigot bearings and they have a seal at one end only - which will be totally unsuitable for fitting in the flywheel.

Does anyone know the part number for the bearing with a seal at both ends?
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:42 pm

Hi Brian. Just read your post. Why not use the bearings with seals one end only? They are going into a blind hole are they not?

BTW what type seals are they? the bearings I have seen are all just needle rollers (INA) no seals. There is no seal in the one presently in my flywheel either..

AB...
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