Lotus Elan

Diff output shafts

PostPost by: Davidb » Thu Jun 22, 2017 8:27 pm

Well, I just discovered that the bearing simply spins on the shaft of one of the 'new' shafts-so that one is out.

Has anybody bought parts from Len Selby? I see he advertises billet shafts at a more reasonable price.

http://www.historicracing.org.uk/parts/ ... n_26r.html
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:44 pm

Davidb wrote:Has anybody bought parts from Len Selby? I see he advertises billet shafts at a more reasonable price.


They seem to be distributing Kelsport parts, same part numbers and prices. Nothing wrong with that, just an observation.
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PostPost by: Davidb » Thu Jun 22, 2017 10:10 pm

I thought that too but Kelsveden want 179 quid for a shaft now!
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Fri Jun 23, 2017 3:17 am

I broke an output shaft many years ago. It was the early type. It was a non event other than losing all drive.

I replaced both with shafts built by John Kouba in SoCal. Last I heard, he still makes them and sells them only to Dave Bean, RD, and JAE Parts.

If you are considering converting to CV axles, John's kit sold by the above suppliers includes the diff output shafts.
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PostPost by: Davidb » Fri Jun 23, 2017 2:48 pm

My car has had 'U-joint' driveshafts since the sixties. The original, early style, output shafts look to be in good condition, despite three seasons of racing in the sixties and years of autocrossing since then. I suppose one thing to consider is that in N.American racing we use rolling starts, not the standing starts used in England. Although that doesn't apply to autocrossing of course.

I sent an enquiry to Len Selby yesterday and will report what I hear back.
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PostPost by: holywood3645 » Fri Jun 23, 2017 4:31 pm

Keith,
I have just replaced the donuts with CV shafts from Kelvedon. I did not think it needed new diff output shafts. I did change the diff to a 3.5 and modified both the rear wishbones to adjustable type and installed small coil overs. The CV from Kelvedon require to limit the droop using lanyards of shorter strut inserts.
This is crappy job to do, but if your taking the rear apart, do ALL the mods you have been thinking off as you will not want to do it again.
PM or call me and I will some tips that will keep the frustration level to a minimum. The smaller spring and adjustable perches are highly recommended.
The price from Kelvedon in the UK is 50% of the cost to buy in NA.

Good Luck
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PostPost by: Hawksfield » Fri Jun 23, 2017 8:30 pm

Hi

I recently had my diff bearings changed due to a whine, it was entrusted to a local expert on return it still had a whine, I spoke to the said expert and he said its an old diff they sometimes always show there age.
I got fed up with it and removed the diff and inspected it for myself, found excessive back lash on the crown wheel to pinon in excess of 0.010 ". This was at the point that I noticed I had one early and one late drive shaft and recalled that I had to removed a safety spigot from one side when I fitted cv drive shafts in 2002.
As it is a 1971 big valve I was surprised that it did not have the later shafts, I recon it must have suffered a breakage in its early life and a later shaft fitted. I have run this car since 1986 without a diff shaft break and CV drive shafts fitted from 2002. I have now fitted the diff and its running fine and quiet with a backlash of 0.004".So I have promised myself one later drive shaft if I can find a good used one or buy a new one.
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PostPost by: Davidb » Sun Jun 25, 2017 7:29 pm

Hollywood3645: Thanks for the response and the offer of advice. I went through all of this when I had the body off and it was a lot easier! The only reason I am doing it now is because of oil seepage from the output shafts. I must have used the wrong sealant since the bearings are new--everything is new in there! Like you I have narrow springs with adjustable perches and adjustable rod ends in the 'A' arms. The drive shafts are 'u' jointed. I thought that since I was taking the shafts out I might as well put better ones in.

Hawksfield: Thanks for the response. When I disassembled my spare diff assembly I found that it had one 'new' style shaft and one, very worn, 'old' style shaft-so I guess it broke one of the old ones at some time--also the spare diff is locked!

I notice now that my spare diff has a breather hose in the top plug but the diff in the car does not--very hard to fit now but I think that may be why it is leaking...
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PostPost by: Hawksfield » Mon Jun 26, 2017 10:36 am

davidb

You should still have a vent in the diff as its a tube screwed in with a small hole in it, not easy to see
Maybe with and enderscope or similar
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PostPost by: Davidb » Fri Jun 30, 2017 4:53 pm

A quick update: After discussing the situation with an engineer friend I decided to 'fix' the bearing to the shaft that was loose using Loctite 635. I also used some "Right Stuff" sealant on either side since I concluded both shafts were leaking because I used the wrong sealant first time :oops:

The breather was easier to fix--I managed without an endoscope-with the right rear suspension removed I could just see up to the breather and could see the hole! (The diff brace pretty well obscures it) I managed to get an air nozzle up to it but could not tell if it was blowing right through due to noise etc. So, I fitted a rubber glove over the output shaft hole, blasted air into the breather hole and the glove inflated! Whose a clever boy then?
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PostPost by: Davidb » Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:03 am

Another quick update: I spent today on a Lotus Club run-playing with Elise and Exiges. Public roads though so common sense was used. The Elan ran very well and there was not a trace of a leak from either rear output shafts so "Right Stuff" sealant is working. I realise that I had used "WellSeal" previously and that is not what it is intended for...
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