CV Driveshafts

PostPost by: AussieJohn » Wed Jan 13, 2010 8:57 am

Thanks for the link ceejay, explains a lot, cheers, John.
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PostPost by: ceejay » Wed Jan 13, 2010 7:47 pm

No Problems John, trust you enjoyed watching the drive shaft demo vid.
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PostPost by: richard sprint » Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:07 pm

Red S4 mentions the 'elantrikbits' these to my mind are the nicest items as they seem well engineered and size weight nicely in proportion and would be my choice when the new rubber items next wear out...
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PostPost by: gino1 » Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:21 pm

Talking about driveshafts yesterday afternoon I spoke with Wayne Mitchell from California who makes and sells these donut savers.
Could be interesting for someone who still uses them. They look very good.
Heres the link :

http://www.dogrings.com/donut_saver.htm

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PostPost by: RedS4 » Sat Jan 16, 2010 3:49 pm

AussieJohn wrote:Thanks Evan, are you a mate of Owen W. who lives in Toongabbie? cheers, John.


Hi John
There's another forum member here in Toony? I regret that I have never met Owen, but obviously would like to. I wonder if he is a member of Club Lotus Australia??
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PostPost by: RedS4 » Sat Jan 16, 2010 3:51 pm

gino1 wrote:Talking about driveshafts yesterday afternoon I spoke with Wayne Mitchell from California who makes and sells these donut savers.
Could be interesting for someone who still uses them. They look very good.
Heres the link :

http://www.dogrings.com/donut_saver.htm

Gino Milano
Italy


Gee, I like these!! And so much cheaper than a fullCV conversion! :D Has anyone tried them?
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PostPost by: Mark B » Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:02 pm

I've been watching this thread with interest as I'm just in the process of deciding the "spec" of my elan & chassis components, interesting that TTR seem to be the only ones pushing uprated diff output shafts with a cv conversion, whereas Paul Matty, Sue Miller etc don't?

Are they really needed or is it just for racing?

I'm building a zetec "baby" elan btw with a 1.8 170 -180bhp engine in a spider chassis.
I like the spider d/shaft conversion but don't like the idea of spending ?150 on new donuts every few years still for the inboard side......

Advice welcome for a newbie please!

Cheers,
Mark. :?
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:18 am

Mark B:

The one's that Ray at rdent.com has come with up-rated shafts as well. You can see them on his site if you click on Elan parts and scroll down. I understand from a previous thread they are manufactured by some one else in the US, but I do not have the link handy. Anyway, these are the one's I went for in my Plus 2. I also added the extra differential brace when i installed them; Ray lists this part as well.

IIRC the Elan Trick Bits sheet lists up-rated shafts in their product description as well.

I can't recall the details, but I believe there was a running change to stronger stock shafts, so perhaps the real question may be 'up-rated from what?'

Cheers!
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PostPost by: AussieJohn » Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:24 am

I think the +2S had the stronger diff output shafts also the diff brace plus the stronger alloy diff housing, probably the sprints as well.
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PostPost by: Old English White » Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:57 am

Mark B wrote:I've been watching this thread with interest as I'm just in the process of deciding the "spec" of my elan & chassis components, interesting that TTR seem to be the only ones pushing uprated diff output shafts with a cv conversion, whereas Paul Matty, Sue Miller etc don't?

Are they really needed or is it just for racing?

I'm building a zetec "baby" elan btw with a 1.8 170 -180bhp engine in a spider chassis.
I like the spider d/shaft conversion but don't like the idea of spending ?150 on new donuts every few years still for the inboard side......

Advice welcome for a newbie please!

Cheers,
Mark. :?


With such engine power/torque , it may be some use ...
But remember , reinforced parts only push the problem further ...
Beside that , I am still waiting for them to fail ...
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:18 am

Hi Mark,

firstly welcome to the Club, so to say.
I can kill 2 Birds with 1 Stone here.
My S4 is painted Opel (Vauxhall?) Pearlescent Mica Blue.
Is yours also an S4? Coupe or Drop Head?
When I started my Project it was going to be a Chassis, Suspension & Wiring Loom job.
I wanted strong reliable Components so bought a whole box of bits from Spider including their rear Suspension & Drive Shafts.
Before I had finished stripping my Car I decided to fit a Zetec after reading an Article in Car & Car Conversions Magazine about fitting one to a Caterham.
Subsequently an Engine was "sourced" & I immediately decided that the Differential would need beefing up.
I sent it to TTR where he put in a longer Ratio, LSD & strengthened output shafts.
They also did my rear suspension with adjustable platforms for 2 1/4" Springs & strengthened Hub Shafts.
When I started bolting bits together I decided I didn't like the "look" of the Spyder suspension Geometry.
Also their "compromise" Drive Shafts had the adapter plates cut from Steel Plate which were welded to steel tubing, which I didn't like the "look" of
Please note that these were purely subjective observations & does not insinuate that those parts are not fit for purpose.
MM's CV Conversion was not available at the time so again I turned to TTR's UJ solution.
The whole job that I wa doing on my Elan was a big 'un & I only wanted to do it once.
So to say "fit & forget" for peace of Mind.
You too will have a serious increase in Torque/Power available with your 1.8 Engine
If you can afford the extra cost I recommend you go "the whole Hog"

I hope you will tell us more about your Project in the not too distant future.
Of particular interest is your Spyder Space Frame.
Is it a "Standard" Elan version or does it have all or part of the changes needed for the Sierra Diff' & MT75 G/Box etc.?

Cheers
John
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PostPost by: Craig Elliott » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:27 am

For what it's worth, my +2S 130/5 has had either UJs/Sliding splines (Performance Unlimited) or, more recently, the Sue Miller CV joint conversion driveshafts since the early 1980s. It would have had the Lotus upgraded output shafts from the diff and the diff brace as standard. With "vigorous" road use I've had no problems with the output shafts or particular issues with the rest of the driveline but I think you do need to watch the rubber diff mounts/engine mountings etc - primarily because of apparent quality issues with the rubber/metal joints in these.

Both set ups were good - the only reason I replaced the UJ/sliding spline system was because of wear in the UJs and some wear in the splines. A new set of UJs and they are still usable. There has been mention of changes to the handling of the car with this type of set up. My understanding is that Lotus tried this type of system but there was a tendancy for the sliding splines to lock up under load - I have a feeling that some of the modern systems are better designed to avoid this (teflon coatings?).

This is well trodden ground but I wouldn't go for donuts - esp with an uprated engine.

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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:48 am

Craig Elliott wrote:For what it's worth, my +2S 130/5 has had either UJs/Sliding splines (Performance Unlimited) or, more recently, the Sue Miller CV joint conversion driveshafts since the early 1980s. It would have had the Lotus upgraded output shafts from the diff and the diff brace as standard. With "vigorous" road use I've had no problems with the output shafts or particular issues with the rest of the driveline but I think you do need to watch the rubber diff mounts/engine mountings etc - primarily because of apparent quality issues with the rubber/metal joints in these.

Both set ups were good - the only reason I replaced the UJ/sliding spline system was because of wear in the UJs and some wear in the splines. A new set of UJs and they are still usable. There has been mention of changes to the handling of the car with this type of set up. My understanding is that Lotus tried this type of system but there was a tendancy for the sliding splines to lock up under load - I have a feeling that some of the modern systems are better designed to avoid this (teflon coatings?).

This is well trodden ground but I wouldn't go for donuts - esp with an uprated engine.

Craig


Very good advice Craig,

If at the time CV jointed Shafts were available I'd have also gone down that route.
I also believe that in the past Spline seizures were happening to cars due to lack of maintainance i.e. forgetting to grease the Splines occasionally.
The TTR splines do have some "trick Coating" on them & mine get a squirt of Grease whenever I'm under the Car.
I'm sure that somebody will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe 26R's left the Factory with UJ/Sliding Spline Shafts & that is why the TTR parts are recognised as acceptable to the FIA.

Cheers
John
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PostPost by: AussieJohn » Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:05 am

I am wondering if the splines in say a cv type conversion [ the splines within the cv ] still suffer from lockup. I run the M.M. conversion but I'm not a hard driver, haven't noticed a problem.
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:30 am

AussieJohn wrote:I am wondering if the splines in say a cv type conversion [ the splines within the cv ] still suffer from lockup. I run the M.M. conversion but I'm not a hard driver, haven't noticed a problem.


The splines into the CV are only statically loaded i.e. they don't slide.
The CV joint itself compensates for drive Shaft length changes.
They won't seize up though, even if it doesn't matter because they are also enclosed within the Rubber Boot & subsequently lubricated by the CV Grease.

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