Lotus Elan

Differential Mounts and Susan Miller Driveshafts

PostPost by: terryp » Wed May 13, 2009 5:12 pm

Well I began today on replacing the donuts with Sue's conversion together with TTR diff mounts, but I have a number of questions ..........
- Can I remove the diff mounts without removing the petrol tank, there does not seem to be much of a gap between the two?
- How do I assemble the mounts i.e. where do the washers go and bolt down presumably?
- There's quite a lot on the forum regarding clearance and problems associated with it , what do I need to do?
- I have the later shafts coming out from the diff with a "protrusion" on. This has to be cut of. Can I remove the shaft easily or do I cut it of in situ?

Thanks a lot

Terry
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PostPost by: andyhodg » Wed May 13, 2009 7:09 pm

Terry

You will have to remove the tank to gain access to the diff mounts. It does not take long to remove the tank. I did it in about 2 1/2 hous including draining the tank of petrol. I can't remember the exact assembly of the washers etc but I seem to remember that the manual has quite detailed instructions. The original diff mounting bolts are head down with the nut on top just under the fuel tank. Although I can't see any reason to prevent you fitting the bols head up.

With regard to the anti flail protusions I would cut them in situ. wrap some rag around the seal area to prevent swarf damaging the seal.

Good luck
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PostPost by: terryp » Thu May 14, 2009 9:44 am

Thanks Andy
I know this is a silly question but cutting the anti flail protrusions , do I do it with an angle grinder or a large hacksaw? I'm a bit nervous of any heat build up?

Terry
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Thu May 14, 2009 11:08 am

terryp wrote:Thanks Andy
I know this is a silly question but cutting the anti flail protrusions , do I do it with an angle grinder or a large hacksaw? I'm a bit nervous of any heat build up?

Terry


An angle grinder with a small diameter cut-off disc would be a good choice. I would go at it slowly and cool the output shaft with a cloth rag soaked in water. I am sure you will be able to do this without the seal and bearing areas getting hotter than they get in normal use. The most important concern is for nicking any of the spider arms which could create a stress riser.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu May 14, 2009 12:29 pm

When I fitted Cv's to my plus2 I cut off the anti flail pins in situ with a hacksaw and then cleaned up the stub with an angle grinder

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PostPost by: terryp » Thu May 14, 2009 12:41 pm

Rohan
Thanks and I think thats a good idea as I'm nervous wielding an angle grinder, I'll fine a new blade and try at the weekend.
Do you know whether if I come from inside the car whether its possible to slightly lift the petrol tank enough (without draining or disconnecting) to get to the diff mount bolts?

Thanks
Terry
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu May 14, 2009 1:58 pm

Hi Terry

Maybe someone else can help on lifting the tank

The only time I replaced the diff mounts on my plus 2 was during a chassis replacement with the body off - I have never had to take the fuel tank off or try to lift it.

I looked at removing the tank once to replace the vent pipe arrangement due to fuel evaporation loss when standing for a while but it all looked to hard !!!! so i did more interesting stuff at the engine end of the car instead and have never got back to that particular problem - i just try to drive the car more so i dont notice how much evaporates out of the tank these days

cheers
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PostPost by: andyhodg » Thu May 14, 2009 2:38 pm

Hi Terry

As Rohan suggests I would use a hacksaw to cut of the anti flail. You may be able to get to the diff mounting bolts from the inside of the car. You would need to remove the reat seat back and you may reach the mounting bolts that retain the diff. I am not sure if the rubber diff mounts could be removed in this manner or not. I think I would remove the diff first and see what access I had to the diff mounts from underneath the car.

To raise the tank more than 1/2 and inch or so you would have to disconnect the filler pipe which means that the tanks would have to be less than half full.

Regards

Andy
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PostPost by: Jason1 » Thu May 14, 2009 7:33 pm

Hi

I cut mine off with a demmel.

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PostPost by: jkolb » Thu May 14, 2009 8:21 pm

Re: the washer locations. Bolt the mount itself to the frame, then put one of the long bolts through the first large washer, then through the mount, then through the second large washer, then through the diff ear, then use a standard washer then the nut. While you are doing this get the diff strengthening plate if you don't already have it. It goes between the second diff mount washer and the diff ear, but must be installed after the diff has been inserted in the frame. A real pain to install, but worth the effort.

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PostPost by: Craig Elliott » Thu May 14, 2009 8:58 pm

You don't necessarily need to take the fuel tank out completely, I managed to get away with undoing the straps and lifting it up an inch or so (being careful not to damage the fuel line)...

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PostPost by: mikealdren » Thu May 14, 2009 9:07 pm

Terry,
Get used to using your angle grinder, they're so useful. Make sure you wear good eye protection and a face mask if you're generating dust (cutting steel's not so bad). You'll be surprised how often you start using the grinder when you get used to it. For example, they're fantastic with wire brush attachments, hard wire cleans off rust brilliantly. I found that soft wire, used gently, was the best way of removing the remnants of glue on the bodyshell interior after removing the carpet, it can be surprising delicate.

Mike.
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PostPost by: terryp » Fri May 15, 2009 10:15 am

Thanks to all who posted
I'm going to spend the weekend on the car carrying out the works with all the tips

Thanks again
Terry
Ps not looking forward to removing the tank if I have to
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PostPost by: terryp » Sat May 16, 2009 3:41 pm

Well not a very good first day ........
After trying with a hacksaw, ended up using a small angle grinder with the output shaft wrapped with a damp rag, unfortunately whilst not damaging the shaft at all , I ended up grazing a brake pipe. I've measured it and its down about .010" so not a lot but it will have to be replaced. I suppose, what does everyone think? I think the wall of the pipe could be .028" or as much as .035" if 20g. Can't get a replacement in France. Has anyone any ideas of where to buy mail order.
One of the diff bolts was seized so I left it seized as the prospect of damaging the diff or the bolt was all too much. Mountings look good, and tank was quite easy to disconnect and lift up a couple of inches, although I had to seal the drain screw with some PTFE tape as it was weeping.
Rear seat belt mountings (the other job) are all in .....
So tomorrow , I fit the new driveshafts and put everything back and fit the rear seat belts
Hopefully a better day

Terry
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PostPost by: andyhodg » Sat May 16, 2009 4:00 pm

Terry

If you do remove the tank rember to remove via the inside of the car. Remove the brace between the strut tops and pull the tank out. It won't come out through the boot - I've tried!

Regards

Andy
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