- Second Gear
- Posts: 222
- Joined: 15 Jul 2007
- Location: UK
[/quote]Number 2. This one is difficult and involves getting under the car. Remove starter motor so you can (with difficulty) access the flywheel, and feel the clutch cover inside the bell housing through the hole. Get someone to press the clutch pedal. The clutch cover is bolted to the flywheel, but between the bolts the cover is scalloped up, so rotate the flywheel into position and using a torch/morror you can just see the edge of the clutch plate inside, under one of the scalloped bits. Get a hack saw blade, heat it and bend it so you have a 4" bit at right angles. then grind the end into a knife edge. Working by feel through the starter hole, poke this under one of the scalloped bits of the cover, and you can then feel the edge of the clutch plate. Make sure she is still pressing the clutch. Push it between the plate and the flywheel or pressure plate, turn the blade, and you will hear a blessed "click" as the plate releases. Bob's your nob. When I finally replaced my clutch plate, I found that the flywheel, pressure plate etc were all coated in a sticky deposit, probably 20 years of condensation and clutch dust and a cheap plate.
Without success, This is what I saw
a) the flywheel was bone dry= is this normal?
b) I was able to insert the hacksaw blade between the flywheel and clutch plate at two different "scalloped bits" each time I heard the thud of the clutch plate hitting the flywheel when I retracted the blade.
I think it is time to bring it to the shop. Thanks for all of the great advice!
- Second Gear
- Posts: 145
- Joined: 08 Jul 2004
- Location: eastern Connecticut
On a bike with a dry clutch I've used WD40 - also used it on the brakes!
Circumspect was word of the day in both cases!
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 562
- Joined: 19 Oct 2003
- Location: Biggin on the Bump. UK
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