Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Just to chuck a spanner in the works (a nice shiny one from Italy no less!!), the guy at reco prop advised against using cv joints! He can make up a set of shafts with UJs and sliding splines for around ?300 a pair but would need dimensions. He is also supplying the prop for my MT75 conversion for around ?140.
Having sampled his wares in the past, I can't recomend him highly enough.

Mark

Mark,

wouldn't it be in this man's interest to recommend his own solution rather than the CV-joint conversion..? I feel I could trust the tried and tested CV-joints a lot more than a one-off sliding spline/U-joint jobbie...

I have a sliding spline and two u/j arrangement on mine for the past few years and can say it's excellent,even made it up myself apart from the u/j mounting plates...

John

The guy may have self interest in mind - that's business. However, Reco-Prop seems like a worthwhile contact to put in the favourites list.


Brian Clarke
(1972 Sprint)

Thor,

the conversation started along the lines of using sierra twincam/granada scorpio driveshafts cut down with the rotoflex fitting welded to the shafts (these have cv joints both ends with 6 bolts holding the joint to the diff flanges). The guy at Reco (I've forgotten his name ) didnt like the sound of it as the shafts are solid, the reason slips my mind, he did however suggest the u/j sliding spline as being a better solution (possibly the "plunge" or in/out movement of the cv joint may be to short (3/4" total movement). I suspect that problems could be encountered on full compression/full droop? dual cv joints would have greater movement but would lack the cushion effect of the rotoflex and lead to other probs like diff failure and diff mounting failure?

Reco are making my propshaft, they make allsorts of one offs including monster BHP stuff for race and rally cars.

They have operated in Luton for donkeys years and have a sound reputation, if anything he would be more interested in a succesfull job rather than making a few extra quid. He would happily make the single cv effort I suggested but wouldnt recomend it.

once I have got the dimensions sussed out, I'll get a price/availability/feasability and post it on here, if any one is interested, they can contact Reco direct.

They also recondition/refurbish and balance propshafts (this is thier core business)

Mark

hmmm. obviously this info changes my mind slightly.. and if I'm looking at a ?300 job instead of a ?450 one, I'm SERIOUSLY considering it. Put more details here when available. I was very happy with the standard sliding spline/UJ on my TR4A driveshafts, so am not really that worried about the principle. I've just always thought a CV joint with a rubber gaitor was a better engineered solution than a simple UJ..
That was really my main reason.

Didn't the older TT doungnut driveshaft replacements have UJ's and sliding splines? I think the old Spyder ones had one UJ and one doughnut. I seem to remember problems with the driveshaft 'locking up' if you managed to get full suspension drop by driving over a hump at speed so the rear of the car lifted up. This was reputed to cause a lot of damage.. Owners had to resort to straps to limit the suspension movement to stop this happening..

Carl

Carl,

Was that not for the Elan?

I have a +2 with TT driveshafts (for the last 2 years) and have had fun on the "yumps" around here. I have not had any problems with the sliding spline driveshafts. They have been really fab.

Mind you, I had the car up on ramps to do the anual maintenance and grease the UJs. There was a bit of rusty water coming out with the old grease. I wasn't too happy with what I saw so I think I'll take the driveshafts off and check for play in the joints.

I also noticed that the driveshafts were pretty rusty. I might also give them a coat of Hammeright when they are off.

Hamish.

Got my driveshafts and brake overhaul parts through from Sue Miller (get well soon Sue!) today, driveshafts look too nice to put on the car! Just need to get the 2 post ramp assembled now!
Al Cowan

I have early spyder driveshafts, sliding spline with outer uj and inner donut. I have just looked at the reco prop website. I am going to ask them if they could alter them to replace the donut with a uj. Can anyone see a reason why this wouldn't work?
Chris

I have the same drive shafts as you chris, I think putting a UJ in place of the rotoflex would work well.

Please keep me posted how it goes

Matt

Chris,

Does replacing the donut with a U/J make it the same as TT shafts?

From Matt's picture, I'm surpised not to see any protection for the spline.


Brian Clarke
(1972 Sprint)

Brian,
I don't know anything about the TTR driveshafts.
My driveshafts have a rubber gaitor over the splines. I didn't even know that they were spyder until I read it on this forum, I bought them on ebay about four years ago.
Chris

TTR driveshafts have a UJ at each end and a sliding spline joint in the middle covered by a rubber gaiter.

Looking at Matt's picture, both ends of the TTR 'shafts are about the same as the UJ end in the pic. Converting the doughnut end looks like it would require fairly major surgery.

Hamish.

Picture taken before I had fitted my rubber gaitor !

Had just renewed the UJ's and re-painted

The expensive bit on UJ style shafts is the sliding spline so maybe changing just one end would be a good cheap upgrade ?

Matt