Thrust bearing noise..... or is it?

[SADLOTUS]

Back again.
Found the old small trolley jack and jacked the car up in stages like the old days.
Adjusted the clutch so there was a 2mm gap at the lever. Without even dropping the car I could tell the bite was an inch or two off the floor. There was a lot of 'free push down' on the pedal before the lever even started to push the clutch.
So.
I adjusted it up to the end of the rod.
So.
The clutch now disengages further up.
That means the slave is constantly under pressure even with no foot on the clutch.
That also means that either the slave, the rod or the master cylinder are not correct for the car? (I reckon).
Pretty sure the slave is correct but can't remember if the master cylinder maybe/could have been changed for something else in the 100 years I've owned it (I did replace the seals last year no problem, and I do remember years ago thinking I'd like to make an adjustable longer master cylinder rod (to pedal) to take up the slack.
Anyway - bites in a nice place. At the moment.
The noisey thrust bearing is still there but not so pronounced as the other day (I think). I could only drive about. 50feet because a tractor was in the way so couldn't say whether it'll still be there during a drive.
As Rohan said I need to drive and see if the pedal bites in a different place as it wears in, then readjust.
I do also agree that pulling the engine again is a last resort.
In theory, it should slip badly with the rod adjusted so far out - we'll see.
I need to drive it.
Thanks again all.
Paul

ps - pics for Elsaturn

[webbslinger]

Paul, Rohan,
When I was trying to figure out the source of the racket coming out of the bellhousing I read that grease in a greasless bearing can seal the surface of the bearing, defeating the bearing's built in self lubricating properties. But I also read many posts of guys swearing that 5k later an unlubed bearing would fail.
Finally, after checking the mounting of the exhaust, tranmission, etc., I decided to replace the bearing as it seemed to be the culprit. I pulled the motor and after looking closely at the clutch stack to be sure, I replaced only the pilot bearing. Noise gone.
I think that perhaps certain kinds of grease result in the failure since some report no problems using it. In my case I was using Chevron Black Pearl, a grease I used to purchase by the case for my boats. There was no locking as I only used a thin film so it wouldn't get all over the place and the grease was nearly gone when I got back in there. Also, it was a brand new bearing as the engine had just had a total rebuild. So in my opinion, from my personal experience, I will never again apply grease to a greasless pilot bearing, and I think it is a mistake to do so

[SADLOTUS]

Webslinger - going back through my mind I remember putting the very slightest wet finger's worth of grease on the input shaft. Just to ease its way through the clutch and into the bearing. Definitely not a lot.
Hoping to do a hundred and fifty miles this weekend.
MoT time....
I'll let you know how it goes.

[Craven]

Workshop manual reads, bearing comes pre-packed with grease.
Ron.

[jk952]

Just a different wacky thought; it is possible to jar the clutch lever on installing engine with attached gearbox in the car causing just one side of the lever to be properly sitting on the D ring on the bearing carrier, the other side cockeyed causing the D ring to drag on the bearing housing, audible in a garage, but downed out when in gear with all the running gear turning or driving, also adjustment gap and pedal position off as you describe.