falling out of second gear when pushed

[joe7]

Had a similar problem with a fellow club member's trans. It was a snap ring type trans and the snap ring came loose. This occurred because the rebuilder put the snap ring on backwards! Remove the shifter housing, look inside and you should be able to determine which type, draw nut or snap ring, you have.

[promotor]

I'm in agreement with the above comment about the snap ring. If it's not a snap ring box (snap ring box is misleading as every type of box has snap rings, it's just a matter of how many) then the box has a threaded nut which would have to be loose to give those characteristics.

I'm also going to place my money on the snap ring that holds the 1st/2nd synchro hub in place is either damaged or missing - in your video you can see that the shaft slides through the synchro hub and the gear moves away from the baulk ring/synchro assembly - this could only happen if the snap ring that holds it on isn't functioning/in place and the snap ring or threaded nut that holds the rear bearing in place isn't doing its job either!

[Chancer]

I had it when I bought a reconditioned box from a still well known gearbox rebuilder in the 90's, I had a chipped gear on the laycluster and at the time a recon 2000? box was the only economical solution.

After a short while I had the same problem and also a sloppy gearchange, the gear lever rocking back and forth Under acceleration and decelleration finally it would not take drive in second without me holding the lever in place.

It was the large snap ring that retains the rear mainshaft bearing in the tailshaft housing which was not correctly seated and had come adrift, I was surprised and a bit peeved given from where I had sourced the box but then everyone has bad days as I know well.

[dgym]

thanks a bunch everyone this is very helpful.
hopefully I will get a chance to open it up in the week and will post what happens.
cheers!
-Jim

[dgym]

and we have a "there's your problem"
the mainshaft nut was completely loose.
no damage done by the looks of the gears.

I have removed the rear housing and the mainshaft bearing is able to be slid out and in approx 3-4 mm. is this incorrect? the last gearbox i rebuilt this bearing had to be pressed in and was very tight.

cheers,

[dgym]

Just re read your post chancer and suspect something similar now.

[dgym]

I guess my question now is - should the rear bearing be tight in the housing enough to prevent any movement? I just watched a video on youtube of a man named Allan doing a rebuild, he presses the bearing into the housing, and it promptly falls out!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Rh7yKFfUl4

[Craven]

Positive location of the rear bearing and its carrier are often misunderstood. It is not necessary for the fit of the bearing in the carrier to be an interference fit, the outer of the race is in effect clamped between the carrier and the recessed area in the tail piece. Therefore it?s essential to ensure a new and correct thickness gasket is in place between the main case and the tail piece, this gasket must also be fitted behind the bearing carrier as it?s the squash in this gasket that allows for all the tolerances to be accommodated.
Ron.

[dgym]

Ron thankyou,
this makes a lot of sense.
The last person to build this box i think just used goop.

[dgym]

interesting development,
decided to have a look at the clutch while I could.
looks as though it's a 8" disk with an 8.5" cover! ?

has a noticeable ridge where the plate falls off the edge of the cover.

did someone get all mixed up with the 8" cover fits 8.5" plate method?

[rgh0]

The standard Elan setup was what you have..... a 8 inch disk in a 8.5 inch cover. You can fit an 8.5 inch disk if you want . Talk to Derry at BGT

cheers
Rohan

[dgym]

so that ridge is normal?

[rgh0]

you will wear a ridge at the OD of the plate fitted over time. You need get both flywheel and pressure plate ground when fitting a new disk to remove any ridge and get the surface finish right

cheers
Rohan