Rear Hub Shafts

PostPost by: Panda » Mon May 07, 2012 7:15 am

Hi Mark,
I fitted TTR keyless shafts, steel hubs and his special washer about 2 years ago to my S4 race car. I followed his clear instructions to the letter, particularly the tightening procedure. I have had zero problems despite having a quick car with lots of grunt.
Then, I tried to change to 26R knock on hubs. My 20 ton press wouldn't budge them, so off to the local engineer to use his 50 ton press. He had to make a special tool to do the job and reckoned it would have driven a Mack truck without slipping!
I had no problems with thread damage, but I slightly warped one hub in my removal attempts.
I think it may have been smart to use loctite before assembling as I understand slight heat helps the joint to release. ( any thoughts on this Rohan)
Alan P
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon May 07, 2012 10:18 am

Yes use of loctite is what DB recommends. The loctite melts with a little heat and release the hub easier, no need for a 50 tonne press.

cheers
Rohan
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PostPost by: mark030358 » Wed May 09, 2012 6:43 pm

One last thing TRR has supplied "Stover" nuts for the shafts. Is this a good thing of should I go to nylocs?

Also do "Stover" nuts damage the thread?

thanks

Mark
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PostPost by: ardee_selby » Wed May 09, 2012 7:01 pm

mark030358 wrote:One last thing TRR has supplied "Stover" nuts for the shafts. Is this a good thing of should I go to nylocs? Also do "Stover" nuts damage the thread?

thanks

Mark


Mark,

I was the "villain" who introduced the term, from your description of them.

However, as Colin has said (see above) those that TTR supplied him, whilst relying on metal to metal interference, are not as "harsh" and are OK from his experience.

Richard
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PostPost by: BrendantheSaviour » Sun Jul 12, 2015 5:44 pm

Old thread revival. Does anyone know the recommended torque specs for the hub nuts on the TTR billeted drive shafts into +2 hubs? The service manual has them at 100ft/lbs but I have heard that 200+ is recommended. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Sun Jul 12, 2015 7:52 pm

Brendan- I would ask Tony Thompson.
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PostPost by: patrics » Sun Jul 12, 2015 8:07 pm

Hi,
Tony supplies a sheet with torque setting etc - it is a lot more than standard and make sure you re-torque after using until it settles down - I think I got another 1/4 turn out of mine before it stopped giving - must have re-torqued at least 3 times.
From my experience I would follow the TTR instruction sheets.

Regards
Steve
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PostPost by: BrendantheSaviour » Sun Jul 12, 2015 8:17 pm

Tony forgot to throw the instructions In the box with the shafts. I have looked online for the procedure but I can't seem to find it.
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PostPost by: mark030358 » Sun Jul 12, 2015 8:19 pm

Just had a look at the TT sheet supplied.
130lbs/ft normal cars and 160 lbs/ft tuned cars.


TT's "procedure" drive 100ft stop, tighten up, drive 100 yds stop, tighten up, drive a "lap" stop, tighten up.

I've had no worries "touch wood" :)
thanks
Mark
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PostPost by: patrics » Mon Jul 13, 2015 8:48 am

Hi Brenden

Just send TTR a mail they have instruction sheets for most things - sure Mark is correct but you should still have a copy.

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Steve
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Thu Jul 16, 2015 8:11 pm

BrendantheSaviour wrote:I have heard that 200+ is recommended.


Mark and Steve have given you the right information, 200+ lb-ft is for the knock-on nuts securing the wheel to the hub.
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