CV joint removal

[rgh0]

If the Cv joint has been assembled into the spigot on the diff output shaft with loctite depending on the grade used it may take some removing.

The heat and chill may work but it may not. You can always release the loctite by heating to around 300C to melt it but you need to pull the diff output shaft out from the diff first as this level of heat will risk damage to the alloy diff and ruin the seals and bearings. Pulling the diff output shaft requires removing the circlip in the alloy housing gripping the shaft flange with a suitable puller and then using a slide hammer to pull the shaft with its beaqring out of the diff. Heating the alloy housing around the bearing to around 100C helps the process.

You also asked in an earlier post on removing the inner Cv joint from the shaft after removing the circlip. It should just press off if you have a press. If not support the the inner Cv joint on couple of blocksd of wood and use a drift to drive the shaft off. If your DPO was very keen on loctite he may have used on the slines and you may need to heat to release it.

cheers
Rohan

[collins_dan]

Thanks Rohan, I was just about to send you a note asking how to remove the inner cv joint. I don't have a press. I do have a 3 legged puller, but it keeps sliding off the inner race. I may have to go to your Plan B of using a drift. I would assume into the little indent at the end of the driveshaft to drive it off the joint. If I was to use heat to aid this process, where would I apply it?

Thanks. Dan

I've done a few minor projects on the car over the last 4 years that I've owned it. This is my first major one and its not going very well, but I'm determined and have the winter to get it done. Unfortunately, this is only the first project on the list. Next up; engine mounts, diff mounts & bushings, master brake cylinder & brake seals, ball joints & trunnions. Hopefully, the rest go a bit smoother.

[rgh0]

Dan
While I have done all the fitting and removal of bearings and shafts on an Elan with just hammers and drifts and support blocks its a lot easier if you can find access to a press

To get the inner CV off the shaft try the following:

Use a 1/2 inch diameter brass drift on the end of the shaft while supporting the CV joint inner on a couple of wooden blocks. A few swift hammer blows on the drift should remove the CV joint from the shaft.

If it does not move gently heat the CV joint to around 100C, try to just heat the CV and not the shaft, cooling the shaft with loctite freeze and release will also help. Try to drift it off again.

If its not moving still it is probably assembled with loctite also. Heat it up further focusing the heat on the spline area to try to melt the loctite. cool the shaft again with freeze and release and try a couple more time. You can hit it hard with a hammer on the drift without damage

If still unsuccessful find someone with a press to press it off

cheers
Rohan

[paddy]

Pardon my ignorance, but I've never seen a CV joint fitting like that - all of the conversions I'm aware of retain the spider and have an adaptor plate that attaches to the spider and to the CV joint. Where did these come from?

Paddy

[collins_dan]

I'm going to guess that these were made back in the late 70's, although the basic design seems consistent with contemporary ones. Shaft with inner joint, a cage (not sure the proper term) that loosely fits around inner joint that holds ball bearings in place, outer joint that fits into either flange connected to stub axle or a plate that bolts onto hub (I think, I removed the joint from the plate, not the plate from the hub or whatever it bolts onto).

Using heat will be a trick as the cage is in the way.

Thanks. Dan

[RotoFlexible]

Pardon my ignorance, but I've never seen a CV joint fitting like that - all of the conversions I'm aware of retain the spider and have an adaptor plate that attaches to the spider and to the CV joint. Where did these come from?

Paddy

This design is sold by RD Enterprises (and possibly others). It includes a special inboard shaft that has an adapter plate for the CV joint, rather than the Rotoflex spider, at the end. It makes for a tidy installation that probably gets the inner joint a little closer to the diff than it would be otherwise, which increases the distance between the inboard and outboard joints and thus reduces the driveshaft angle at the limits of wheel travel. (I still had to fit droop limit cables, perhaps because the narrow spring perch positions the end of the shock rod slightly lower than stock, allowing greater droop.)

[collins_dan]

Andrew, Can you post a picture or description of your droop limit cables? I think it was the droop when jacking the car by the center frame that caused cv boot to rip in the first place. Thanks. Dan

[rgh0]

The droop limiting cables on my Elan

cheers
Rohan

[collins_dan]

What's the maximum length from wishbone to frame, how did you connect to the frame and what gauge wire did you use? Thanks. Dan

[rgh0]

I fabricated a small tab and mig welded it to the chasssis. The lower connection was a strip of steel wrapped around the wishbone and clamped together with the bolt connecting the cable.

I selected the length by experimentation. I held the arm up with a jack and measured the location where there was no binding of the cv joint and no apparent strain in the cv rubber boots.

The spring load at this point was very low so cable strength was not critical. I went to a yacht supply shop and selected a cable that looked strong and flexible enough and got them to make to the right length with eyes in each end. I think it was about 2mm diameter. By twisting the cable before connecting you can control which direction it moves when the suspension compresses so it does not hit the disk or drve shaft.

cheers
Rohan

[collins_dan]

Just a quick update. Heat is my new best friend! CV joint just came off in my hand after heating the flange that held it. Now if I can just get the inner joint off the driveshaft. Tried heating the joint and freezing the shaft, but have only moved it a couple of mm's... but I did move it. I also broke a vise and trashed bronze drift in the process. Currently soaking in penetrating oil... the joint that is, while a rest up for the next battle.

Dan