Transmission woes, popping out of 4th, and now 2nd.

PostPost by: CrisinColorado » Sun Aug 07, 2016 11:30 pm

In addition, the start of the trouble was it wouldn't come out of reverse.
I've spent a few hours searching previous posts. I'll be removing the
tranny tunnel and taking off the inspection plate to poke around inside
just to see how things look, but I'm no tranny expert by a long shot.
Will also be checking to see if the shift handle retaining ring nut hasn't backed off.
There's no console that it could be fouling on, so ruling that out.

The car's only ran for about 200 miles since the drivetrain swap was completed.
First hundred miles were flawless, four trips back the reverse deal, then one with
no trouble and now it's popping out of first 4th gear on deceleration or slight (only)
throttle input. By the end of the last drive, 2nd gear was doing it as well *sigh*.
Stays in gear with a hand and pressure on the lever.

Won't be able to take the tranny out for another month, we want to take it to a
all English show here in Colorado, we missed it last year because of the swap
and my wife loves this show, soooo. I would really love to find a low $ cure, something silly
but easily fixed. But I've always been a dreamer....

Besides 'extra' slop what can I hope to see when I admire the inner workings tomorrow.?

This is on my '60 Hillman Husky with twin cam, backed by the close ratio 4-sp. out of my
(long dormant) U2 Mallock Mk6 project.

Enclosing a photo of the engine all tucked into it's new home. Really came out quite nice.!

Cheers and thanks for the help/info in advance.

Cris

twincam-in-place-sidevew.jpg and

twincam-in-place.jpg and

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PostPost by: Elan45 » Tue Aug 09, 2016 12:50 pm

The only thing that 2nd, 4th and reverse have in common is at the shifter handle and the plastic cup which holds the gear lever handle in place. Make sure it is screwed down snugly.

If your box is popping out of 4th gear, that is usually indicative of a worn 3rd-4th shift fork. If left w/o proper repair, it will wear the small dog teeth on the inside of the syncro hub and the mating teeth on the input shaft. Neither of these pieces is generally available new and if you really have a close ratio box w/ 2.50:1 1st gear, you'll never find a good used replacement. Get this fixed right away!

Roger
'67 Elan S3 SS DHC
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
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PostPost by: CrisinColorado » Tue Aug 09, 2016 1:48 pm

Howdy Roger, thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I've replaced the plastic cup with the alloy piece from RD Ent. when we put the transmission in to the Husky, will be checking it for tightness today (got held up by other stuff yesterday). Sure would be great if that was the problem, that I can do.!

Cheers & thanks again. We won't be driving it the 50 miles one way to the Conclave (the English cars/bikes show), we'll end up trailering it just to be safe.

Again thanks for the input.

Cris
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PostPost by: CrisinColorado » Tue Aug 09, 2016 6:36 pm

Udate to the original update below. No more jumping out of fourth, second or reverse.
Amazing how a 1/2 inch wide piece of metal can throw one into a panic. Maybe I panic easy or perhaps I expected more from the shop I used for some of the fabrication. In any rate, problem solved.
Thanks for the help & the nudge in the correct direction. I will still be dreaming of that six-speed Quaife sequential box...

Cheers,
Cris


Update, pulled the transmission tunnel off. The huge nut (which it turns out I'd also replaced pre the swap)
that holds down the gearshift handle assembly was only finger tight. Tightened it about a flat by hand and
then finished tightening it up to 'snug'.

Also looks like I could easily booger off another piece of transmission tunnel as the hole isn't quite a round opening.

Kind of has 15-20% to go on the rearward most point, you know, where reverse, second & fourth are (!!!!).

Perhaps this remaining 'protusion' is fouling the rubber shift boot gaiter and hindering the rearmost shifts.
Going to go buy some metal blades for my Rockwell sonic tool cutting dealio & 'have at it'.
Would be really, really cool if that was all it was for sure.

Follow up question. I filled it initially by adding the correct amount of fluid via a funnel and a removed bolt off of the shift housing. It sure looks like I should have regasketed the tranny before installing into the Husky. It's wet at both cover locations that I can see from up top. Any semi-safe way to add fluid thru these top plates without over filling. Is the drain plug on street or curbside of the tranny.? Might see about making an access hole-plate if I can see where it is.

Will update when I've had a chance to put it thru a quick run around the lake.

Cheers & thanks again for the help.

Cris
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