Adjusting clutch

[bob_rich]

Hi Folks

Just got the engine/gearbox on to the rolling chassis and set up the clutch with a temporary hand operated master cylinder to check it works OK. In making the 2mm gap adjustment. I assume you either remove the return spring and pull the operating arm back until small contact resistance is felt when the release bearing contacts the clutch cover spring operating plate. Or do the same with the spring on in which case a bit more force is required to take up the slack.

With the return spring on there wont be a 2mm gap

I assume I understand this correctly

thanks in advance for any comments

cheers

Bob

[john.p.clegg]

Bob

Correct.

John

[alaric]

So with the return spring in place the 2mm gap is translated into a smaller gap at the other end of the lever reduced by the ratio of the position of the pivot point along the arm, leaving the thrust bearing under no load.

I have a concentric slave cylinder now that appears to continually load the thrust bearing - not so good I suspect.

Sean.

[gerrym]

Sean, when not be actuated by the hydraulics, a concentric slave should only be applying a very light pressure to the clutch plate. Looking at the CSC003 type, this light pressure is applied by a very soft coil spring. I think the idea is take up any wear in the clutch plate so that the actuation is always constant. Such a light pressure will not cause any wear. Unless of course there is a misalignment between the clutch plate and the thrust bearing part of the concentric slave, causing skidding to occur.

Regards

[alaric]

Hi. I'm sure you're right gerry. My actuator comes from a ford mondeo I believe so I'm sure it'll be fine - well tested so to speak. The light spring loading at least means there's no pedal travel before the clutch starts to work.

Regards.

Sean.