Off-season bodywork

[mikealdren]

Many thanks, should have seen it!!!
Mike

[steve lyle]

Hi Steve,

Before you fibreglass up the door, if you haven't already done so, I suggest that you refit the window frame to check that there is still enough space between the door skin and the bottom of the frame, especially in the centre where the pulley bracket is located. On my S4 LH door I can not get my fingers fully between the bracket and the door skin, and the door is still standard.

Mike

Mike,

I got around to test fitting the window frame today, and took some measurements. With the outer skin pulled in, I measured .81" of clearance from the outside of the frame holding the pulley to the inside of the door skin. My adjustment amount was almost exactly .25". So at least on my door, there was about an inch of adjustment available. Re: the "finger test", I could just get my fingers wrapped under the pulley and between the door skin, with some space to spare.

Clearly there was quite a bit of variation when they built these cars!

Regards,
Steve

[steve lyle]

BTW - does anybody have a trick for getting the top bolt fastened to the rear of the window frame? There are 3 fasteners for the window frame rear plate, the bottom 2 are machine screws that screw into nuts glassed in to the inner door frame, but the top one has no captured nut, just a hole, and I can't figure out how to hold a nut in that spot, much less get a wrench on it. Apparently neither could the PO, since there wasn't one there, on either side, when I got the car.

Thanks,
Steve

[berni29]

Hi

Very interesting and relevant thread, so thank you everyone.

I am taking delivery of a sight unseen but (supposedly) prepped +2s rolling chassis on the 22nd of Dec, so in 2 days. I am having it delivered to a spray booth where my brother and I will attempt our first ever car respray over xmas. I have been told by the guy who owns the booth to not attempt it myself.

I have bought enough white 2k epoxy primer for the first coat, then a high build 2k spray filler also white for the 2nd, then cream (RAL9001) base, and 2k Clear for the last. I was also advised not to paint the car cream, but I think it's going to look great.

I also have a very ugly +2s for restoration that is going to need all the repairs detailed in this post and probably more.

To top it off I also have a painted body (by the PO) waiting for it's Zetec chassis.

My wife only found out about the car I am about to paint a couple of days ago. It had previously been described as "parts" which it technically quite correct. Bit like all of them really. She can spot the bodies though.

All the best

Berni

[Andy8421]

Hi

I am having it delivered to a spray booth where my brother and I will attempt our first ever car respray over xmas. I have been told by the guy who owns the booth to not attempt it myself.

I have bought enough white 2k epoxy primer for the first coat, then a high build 2k spray filler also white for the 2nd, then cream (RAL9001) base, and 2k Clear for the last.
Berni

Berni,

Good luck with your spraying.

If you haven't already, please take a bit of time to read up on the health risks of isocyanate (iso) based paints and the precautions that need to be taken to avoid long term health damage. Its bad enough to have scared me away from using them.

Apparently there are now iso-free 2 pack paints available, but I don't know enough to be able to recommend any of them. Perhaps others on here can advise.

Andy.

[gjz30075]

Steve, are you referring to the plate on to which the latch assembly bolts?

[berni29]

Hi Andy

RE Safety, Yes and thank you. I have a full body suit and full face respirator that takes a compressed air feed from outside the booth. When using rattle cans I just hold my breath, but sadly that technique is not going to cut it with the 2k stuff haha.

It’s well worth a mention. I see pro guys on you tube using part face carbon masks. Not sure what is going on there. I know the booths have huge airflow, but nevertheless seems a bit wrong.

All the best

Berni

[elanner]

BTW - does anybody have a trick for getting the top bolt fastened to the rear of the window frame? There are 3 fasteners for the window frame rear plate, the bottom 2 are machine screws that screw into nuts glassed in to the inner door frame, but the top one has no captured nut, just a hole, and I can't figure out how to hold a nut in that spot, much less get a wrench on it. Apparently neither could the PO, since there wasn't one there, on either side, when I got the car.

Ha! Yes, this does indeed seem impossible and I struggled with it for quite a while. Eventually I realized that it's reasonably simple. First off, use a lock washer or locknut so that you don't need to get a wrench on the nut.

Then either:
1) Before lowering the window frame into the door, tape the nut in place with masking tape or similar.
Or:
2) After lowering the window frame into the door, use your little finger to maneuver and hold the nut in place. This seems impossible but, perhaps with a little sticky grease on your finger, and carefully arranging the angle of attack, isn't out of the question. At least with my doors. It probably depends on the exact shape of the fibreglass door shell in this area.

Nick

[steve lyle]

Steve, are you referring to the plate on to which the latch assembly bolts?

Yes