Scrape and Sand equals Angst

[Backmarker]

See the images. The theory of mine is that a PO suffered/caused quite a bump to the right front. This explains the need for the replacement galvanized LR sub-frame/chassis from circa 1985. As I cleaned around the front checking for bumps and bruises in the GRP, I found quite a cover-up. The extent of the shunt is into the right firewall, as the bonnet most likely pushed back and did away with this area (thus missing body number pressing). The grey filler next to the right pod is about 3/8” thick in the center underneath. Both right pod mounts are held by gobs of filler.

So, opine as you may: new front section, or start over and do a proper puzzle build?

[snowyelan]

I had similar issues. I cut the front off at the back of the front arches. The repair nosecone I bought was not great quality. 20 years ago so maybe they're better now.

Hindsight being 20/20 I would probably have rebuilt the original damage. It took a lot of work to bring the repair section up to a good state. Specifically the headlamp openings, bumper aperture, and bobbins needed a lot of finessing to get right. Assess what you have to see if the body lines seem smooth and fair.

If working with old glass make sure to stabilize it first then grind out ALL the damage and dirt. Grind half way through and feather from one side first, repair with resin and matt, not cloth, then do the opposite side.

[nmauduit]

if your choice eventually leads to repairing the original bits, once most of the fiberglass is fixed and stabilized (I concur with the previous suggestion of feathering half way from both sides in 2 steps), I would then remove the bondo/filler in conspicuous locations, esp. the opening of the headlights, and would reconstruct that in fiberglass.
As mentioned, this will be time consuming to trim just right, but will end up being lerss prone to fracture than the junction of dissimilar materials.

[Backmarker]

Excellent advice, I’m for the original puzzle pieces as well. As said, rebuilding the pod mounts will take extra patience.

Jim and @Sandi68S4 (on instagram) thank you.

[Spyder fan]

Definitely worth the effort to repair what you have, add strength where you can with fibreglass matting at the rear and do an Option 1 style layer of resin and tissue on the surface to stabilise. remove as much bondo filler as you can and replace with matting and resin, but don't be too fussy about it, filler is fibreglass and resin based after all.

Well done for getting stuck in, I really enjoy doing bodywork, and GRP cars can be very satisfying to work on.

[Billmack]

When you are working around the pod mounts be sure to test fit the pod often. I repaired this area on my car and actually took a couple small splashes from a good car to make it work. It did. Eventually. The thing was establising where the bobbin went relative to the finished surface of the nose. I tried to not modify the pod.

[h20hamelan]

could add shims around pods, exothermic reactions can move while drying

[Elan45]

I have repaired the outer LH bobbin location a couple of times on 2 different S3s. I have a little kit I made up to get the location right, but I've always had the inner bobbin to locate from. Perhaps you fix the inner location and I can help w/ the outer.

Roger

[Elan45]

Oh, and I'm in Palm Coast through Wednesday.

Roger

[Backmarker]

Roger, will you be visiting Tim at Sevens and Elans? He’s doing up our TC. Hopefully can get up there for a few days to help/observe the build. I’m near Tampa, about 3 1/2 hours drive from there.

As the left side is okay I will try to make a device/frame thing, as you have, to locate the bobbins, perhaps that will attach to the bump-stop bobbins for placement/stability. An image of your idea would be a welcome starting point.

Again, much thanks to all for your encouragement and ideas. I will do better about keeping updates coming.

Cheers,
Jim