window motor replacement, 1970 +2

[pudge2260]

Electric window motors on both doors are weak. The car has been sitting for decades. Would like to remove and rebuild. Looks to be a challenge in getting them out. Recommendation?

Thanks, Richard

[john.p.clegg]

Both motors weak? Maybe have a look at the electrics to them first...

John

[mbell]

I'd start with cleaning and lubricating the seal. If the glass doesn't side freely it will be slow.

[stugilmour]

Richard, the good news is rebuilt motors are readily available through a well sourced NA parts store. The call up I used is for a ‘69 Chevelle front window lifts. The same basic Delco motor assembly is used in a wide variety of sixties seventies GM products.

The wrinkle is the right side Chevelle or equivalent motor is mounted on the left side in the Plus 2, and vice versa.

The parts store will generally require a core. Make sure you remove the mounts and regulators to re-use with the new rebuild motor.

Here is a thread with more details on the Cardone part numbers and the removal process

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=24949&start=

I also rewired the doors and used relays so that the rather old and delicate dash switches only see relay trigger loads. Agree with others you may want to do this first. I figured properly rebuilt motors were pretty reasonable though; in my case they made an enormous difference evan after all the other repairs and mods. The in and out procedure is enough of a job that I figured a fully rebuilt motor was great value. Perhaps one of the rare cases where we have an easier time sourcing rebuilt motors this side of the pond.

Note when looking in the archives the Elan uses a completely different window lift system than your Plus 2, which can be a bit confusing.

HTH

[The Veg]

Mine were VERY weak. I did the motor-swap as Stu suggested, this didn't cure it, and neither did cleaning the contacts in the switches nor lubricating the machanisn.

What DID cure it was to run a new large earth/ground wire straight from each motor directly to the chassis. I used either 12- or 14-gauge wire (I forget exactly which), ran it into the door then put a large ring-terminal on the end and secured that under a motor-mountimg bolt, then ran the other end to the chassis-bolts behind the bottom of the dashboard and used another ring-terminal there. Due to the size of the terminals the wire now cannot be removed from the door-tube without cutting off a terminal but that's a small price to pay and shouldn't be necessary unless I ever need to remove a door. My windows now operate with authority.