Plus 2 with different wheel base either side!!!

PostPost by: pharriso » Wed Jan 13, 2021 2:53 pm

Can we eliminate the wishbones before we start taking the body off the chassis? :roll:
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Jan 13, 2021 3:53 pm

Hi Phil,
it was said at start the Wishbones have been checked.
But it was mentioned some thing had been done to the Chassis☺. Ref post 11th Jan.
The Body can be lifted in a W/E and the inside has not been done yet. So i take that as Seats not fitted so not too heavy.
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PostPost by: bitsobrits » Wed Jan 13, 2021 4:08 pm

John,

Perhaps you can take some photos from various angles of the suspension and frame of the offending corner (wheel removed) and post them here?

It appears from your original photo that you have Spyder or similar tubular lower wishbones, so very unlikely those would be bent, and even incorrect manufacture that would result in your situation seems unlikely, but still worth comparing them with those on the right side.

Was the car transported to you via trailer? Is it possible the frame/pivots were tweaked by a pull strap or tie down?
It would only take a 5 degree or so tweak to put you off an inch at the wheel center.
Steve

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PostPost by: pharriso » Wed Jan 13, 2021 4:44 pm

alan.barker wrote:Hi Phil,
it was said at start the Wishbones have been checked.
Alan

I can't find that :roll:

With the Wishbones removed you should be able to see if the Spindle(s) are bent. If my memory serves me correctly the spindles on the Spyder chassis can be replaced.

I would have thought it unlikely that the chassis was twisted or buckled to change the wheelbase by 1" one side without any spindle or wishbone damage? Unless of course it was a major impact & the crash loads were applied directly to the chassis, rather than the wheels or suspension.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Jan 13, 2021 5:28 pm

[quote="Johnincoventry"] The chassis is new, so I thought the previous owner had assembled the wishbones incorrectly, but having dismantled and rebuilt the suspension, the problem remains"
John you said one of the Screws is not lined up at bottom of Dash Board strange.
Alan
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Jan 13, 2021 5:31 pm

[quote="Johnincoventry"]
I have another piece of information which is pointing to a damaged/repaired chassis. Of the two body mounting bolts on top of the tunnel, near the dash, the near side bolt does not line up with the bobbin...........
Clearly chassis needs a closer look at. Maybe it was nicely painted to cover a repair!!!!]"
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PostPost by: Johnincoventry » Fri Jan 15, 2021 1:24 pm

More good comments, thank you all.
Am steeling myself to remove the body..
Did one in 1976 but i am a bit older now!!!
Regards
John
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PostPost by: snowyelan » Fri Jan 15, 2021 10:04 pm

The dimension between the lower inboard pivots could probably be checked pretty easily without removing the body if the front pivots are a different dimension than the rear then it points to a chassis issue. Loosen the arm nuts, hang a couple plumb bobs over the pivots, and compare front to rear dimensions
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PostPost by: andyelan » Thu Jan 21, 2021 7:17 pm

Hi There
From what I can see from the little picture of the chassis you've posted, it doesn't look very new to me.
It looks like there's evidence of rust pitting under the coat of silver paint which would lead me to suspect it has had, at some time, repair work (possibly badly) carried out on it.

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PostPost by: seniorchristo » Sun Jan 24, 2021 12:50 am

Cueing off Bitsobrits suggestion, I would jack up the car and plumb down from the chassis suspension pickup points.at the frame. Marking these on the floor you would then be able to measure any left side vs. right side discrepancies. :)
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PostPost by: Johnincoventry » Sun Jan 24, 2021 5:18 pm

Well the story so far,,,,
As most of you pointed out, the wishbones are all tubular, and like eveything else, brand new.
I have been all over the chassis (have a poor video of it) and do NOT think it has been altered from new. Andy suggested the paint might be covering rust which i thought was a good indicator the the chassis was a bit suspect. However, the flaking of the silver paint is not due to rust, but because under the silver paint, the chassis is galvanised!!!!
miked wrote:If i am reading this right?
My take!
I rejected two new Lotus Elan Chassis's about 18 years ago at the dealer I ordered from and travelled to pick up from (with my hired van).
When putting a tape measure between the turrets on the left and then on the right there was a difference of 1/2 inch more on the left side compared with the driver right side.
I waited 3 months and the second was was worse. 5/8 this time.
So, entirely possible that traslates to the problem.
I have a keen eye and stood on the back cross member and could actually see it was the rear part of the chassis that caused the larger gap on the left side. Load of scrap!
Not at 90 degrees to the centre.
I went for a Spyder chassis because it was going to be accurate. I dearly wanted a Lotus chassis for that restoration. I spoke to Spyder at the time and they told me about the problem unprompted.
I would cut the PO some slack as it was not easy to see.
To add insult to injury these chassiss were also twisted. When sat on a screed workshop engine bay floor they rocked about.
So much for trying to be a purist. I have picked up several new old stock Lotus chassiss over the years for other restorations and they have been spot on when examined and measured.
I would question the accuracy of the jig at the period the chassis was made or repaired. Just a rhetorical question.
Cheers Mike

The current situation is that I am trying to remove the wishbones from the suspect side of the car, nearside front,
However there is insufficient clearance for me to slide the wishbone off the pivot because it is fouling on the body. See PHOTO. Is this normal??? or is this an indication of the problem?.
As regards trying to hang a plumb line dowrn, there is too many bits in the way, brake pipes etc.
Certainly is looking like a body off job.
Regards John
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Jan 24, 2021 6:24 pm

Hi John,
to remove the Wishbone you can cut the grp away. When you laminate back make like a Dimple so it can always be remove. It's only grp.
With any luck the Wishbones will be the problem.
Good luck
Alan
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PostPost by: pharriso » Sun Jan 24, 2021 6:50 pm

alan.barker wrote:.....With any luck the Wishbones will be the problem.
Good luck
Alan


Alan, that's a complete 180!

alan.barker wrote:Hi Phil,
it was said at start the Wishbones have been checked.
Alan


Yes the body can be sawn away...but you can usually remove the wishbones without hacking any bodywork.... doesn't it imply maybe that the turret is twisted so the spindle is closet to the centreline of the vehicle at it's front edge? That would tend to move the hub forward....
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Jan 24, 2021 7:54 pm

Hi Phil,
Yes it could seem like a 180 but lifting the Body lets you check it out easier.
With the Body on you can't see the Wood for the Trees.
You get the Body off in a W/E.
Alan
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PostPost by: bitsobrits » Sun Jan 24, 2021 8:51 pm

It really shouldn't be that hard to measure a few things with the body on.

Using a straight edge across the bottom of the front chassis cross tube, with the front wheels pointing straight ahead, is one of the trunions further forward of the other? Again referencing the straight edge, do the lower front control arms appear to be at the same relative angle to the chassis?

With a longer wheelbase on the one side, and the tire too close to the front wing edge on that same side, the issue pretty much has to be on that front corner.
Steve

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Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow

Formerly:
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