Headlining query

[Andiken]

Morning all

I'm going to be fitting a new headlining to my Plus 2 this weekend if I can escape the decorating and head for the garage.

I've fitted new foam to the roof panel at the top of the front and rear screens as well as in and across the A posts.

The question I have is around glueing the headlining into position. Should the glue go on the inside or outside of the fibreglass (front and rear windscreen and door apertures) or BOTH inside and outside?

Thanks

[richardy8496]

Your question is good timing for me as I am about to undertake the same job. I've just had the body resprayed and want to get the headlining done before replacing the front and rear screens. The body shop did not want to undertake the headlining replacement, which is a bit worrying and I wonder how much of a specialist job it is. I've got a new headlining from Sue Miller but she does not supply any instructions - does anyone have any instructions or hints/tips as to how to do this successfully?

[Craig Elliott]

I did this ages ago and posted some hints under the topic:

'Re: 1972 front screen fitting ? Parts question'

Apologies I don't know how to post a direct link to the hints and photos. if you do a search you should find it. It's reasonably easy to do but you need to make sure you've got the lining support rods in the right order and plenty of clamps/bulldog clips etc. One thing - it's important to use the right impact adhesive as it needs to be heat resistant (Woolies sell it, other suppliers may be available).

[Andiken]

I've searched on here and there's lots of info and tips but none mention where to glue!

The most useful things I've read are to clean and repaint the bows before installing so they don't mark the new headlining. To fold the headlining in half and mark the centre, then mark the centre of the front and rear screen apertures to ensure the lining is central on the car. Lastly, to fit and adjust the headlining using bulldog type clips to remove all wrinkles and then removing one clip at a time mark the inside of the lining with a pencil along the edge of the aperture to make sure it goes back in the right place.

Where I get stuck(!!) is if I should be putting the glue inside or outside of this line and on the inside or outside of the aperture.

[Craig Elliott]

I glued the outside of the apertures (ie the parts of the windscreen and door flanges on the outside of the car) and the corresponding headlining fabric. You have to let the glue dry for a while before bringing the two parts together. I didn't put glue on the inside of the car or on the side of the foam that touches the headlining. It's been a while since I've done one of these but I've used that approach a couple of times and it worked well.

Does that make sense?

One other tip - carefully makes sure that the screws that hold the drainage rails on the roof of the car have been properly sealed (eg with some silicone or mastic) to make sure that water doesn't get in and stain your nice new headliner.

[Andiken]

Thanks Craig, that's what I was looking for.

Good tip about the drainage rail screws, I haven't fitted them yet, best I do that first and then seal them methinks!

[richardy8496]

Thanks, that's all very helpful. As Woolies went down the pan some time ago, do you remeber the name of the glue referred to?

[Andiken]

I was going to use an Evo-Stick contact adhesive as all the edges are held in place by either door or window seals once glued. With these seals in place I can't imagine that the material would move or is this viewing through rose tinted specs?

[jono]

Use 'Timebond' Evostick - it gives you a bit of flexibility for adjustment unlike the normal version which sticks first time when you bring things together.

Fitting a headlining should not be too daunting a task - it just takes patience but is hugely satisfying when yuo get it right. Stretch, clip, leave over night then repaeat (use a hairdrier to get it taught). Then when you are happy it's been stretched sufficiently and all the wrinkles are gone continuously mark the outer extremity of the lining, unclip and begin to glue it - start at the centre of the sides and work to front and rear, using the hairdrier as you go to remove any wrinkles.

Get a few hundred bulldog clips.

I think I did wrap around the screen flanges and glue on the outside as well - then trimmed back with a scalpel so that it was covered by the screen rubber. I was tight as a drum for at least 5 years thereafter (sold it last year to another poster on here)

Jon

[stugilmour]

Wow, Jon, absolutely excellent job! My effort is more a tale about how not to do it!

Here is a question. What thickness of foam (if any) did you folks use on the rear panels (C Pillars) under the headliner fabric? Mine is definitely too thick and looks particularly lousy around the interior lights.

My effort was possibly more difficult because there is a sunroof to contend with. Unfortunately the lasting rod pockets on the pre-sewn fabric don’t extend down low enough to give that nice curve that Jon achieved.

I also missed the memo on foam inserted in the A pillars and over the windshield. Might be able to correct when I get a windshield done.

Cheers

Stu

[alanr]

Thanks, that's all very helpful. As Woolies went down the pan some time ago, do you remeber the name of the glue referred to?

Don't think so. Spoke to them only the other day.
https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/

This is the adhesive you want...brilliant stuff.
https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/ ... t-adhesive

[Craig Elliott]

As the previous poster has said I wasn't referring to the defunct high street store - it's the professional trim shop near Market Deeping and the link to the glue is spot on.

I'd strongly advise using the heat resistant glue. It's designed for the job as there's less risk of the headliner sagging/coming lose over time - especially if you have to replace the door or rear windscreen rubbers. Normal eco-stick may work for a while but doesn't last as well. Re-attaching part of the headliner if it came lose without having creases left in it would be difficult as I suspect the hairdryer trick won't work as well on ageing liner material.

One additional tip - a glue spreader (Woolies sell them) is much better than a brush for doing this. They do sell glue guns with brush nozzles that you can replace but this seems a bit OTT for a one off job of fitting a roof liner. They also sell different thicknesses of foam sheets etc...

Jon - looks like we both used pretty much the same approach

[richardy8496]

Thanks to everyone for all the useful information. Andiken's original question was which side of the GRP to glue the headlining. I've just received the extra material for the quarter panels from Sue Miller and she enclosed a note for fitting headlining, albeit specifically for the Elan FHC, but she advises "When you are sure that there are no wrinkles left, stick the headlining to the fibreglass using a contact adhesive. Apply it to each surface and leave to dry before mating together. Try to stick only to the outside, using small amounts. Do not get too much adhesive on the inside of the car as the adhesive may eventually work through and discolour the face of the headlining".

I also found the Alpha AF178 adhesive on eBay (seller 4bearings) for £16.99 inclusive of postage, quite a bit cheaper than Woolies.

[mark030358]

My advice having done an S4 Elan would be to leave it until the summer when its warm. This extra warmth will endure a "tighter" fit of the headlining as it will stretch that much easier.

cheers

[TeeJay]

+1 re fitting roof lining in a warm environment, either in warmer days or with garage heating, the warmth helps stretching.

I found my previous post, Oct 2012, difficult to find as posted under “Body area under fuel tank”, look towards the end of the page for the details.

When I did mine I applied the adhesive (Evo Stik Time Bond) on both sides of the door and windscreen flanges and on the headlining left for approx 5 mins then fitted. Also took care to mark the body and headlining to ensure I stretched to the same position when adhesive applied and clamped. This ensured that the adhesive did not go in unwanted areas.

Link to Details and photos:- viewtopic.php?f=40&t=26285