Matt Elan wrote:
...Maybe if you use the scissor lift to raise the body, then suspend the body on some lengths of timber, remove or drop the lift and pull the chassis out? That way you could also get the body off without having to get the engine etc off the chassis - and its a darn sight easier to strip the chassis (and reassemble it) with the body off - you've got much better access and you can use heat on any stubborn fasteners without the fear of igniting the body....
HTH
Matt
Basically what Matt says...
I removed the body with scaffolding and pulleys similar to Foxie’s photo above. Biggest issue was figuring out a method to attach the pulley lines to the body. I used the Plus 2 jacking points with two pieces of 1 1/2” aluminum square tubing down each rocker, and threaded rod inserted in the jack holes. Was a bit awkward until the body was high enough to allow two tubing pieces to be inserted crossways above the backbone to prevent bending the jacking points. Used a combination of jacks to apply vertical force to the jacking points, but it was not ideal execution.
Note the previous owner had already replaced the rocker rails; absolutely do not assume the jacking points and rails are solid, and replace as required if relying on them.
With the freshly painted body, we opted to use a scissor lift approach without the rented scaffolding. I got four ATV Motorcycle lifts (as shown) rather than a single lift. Worked OK as the individual scissor lifts had enough stroke to get the body over the towers when placed on blocks, but the whole thing was quite unstable when high enough to roll the chassis under the body. We did get it done with four of us, but again it was not ideal.
If I was doing it again, I would suggest the scissor lifts only to raise the body high enough to get the pulleys attached to the jacking points. Once the body pops free of the chassis it is pretty controllable. Just need to get the floor about 2” above the backbone to insert the cross pieces, and then complete the lift with the scaffolding and pulleys.
Definitely come up with a scheme that allows full assembly of the chassis, suspension, and drivetrain with the body off. Note if you are installing a new undrilled chassis it is pretty important to have the engine installed to get the bonnet clearance correct before marking the front tower bolt holes for drilling. As others have mentioned, the whole thing is so much easier to work in with the body off.
Note there are lots of methods with advantages and disadvantages. Definitely have help. As Slotus says, a crew of husky helpers might work OK, but be careful picking up the body from the bumpers. Other threads have cautioned this may cause body cracking; no direct experience with this, but didn’t want to find out with the freshly painted body.
In terms of a ‘crew size’, works well to have one person just running around checking things and providing guidance.
HTH
Stu