Lotus Elan

Bonded screen

PostPost by: Mick6186 » Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:16 pm

I am about to fit a bonded screen to my 130/5 using the Paul Matty trim.
When I put my bare laminated screen in the screen aperture the glass level is about three eighth of an inch below the bodywork level, especially the roof edge.
Do I need to use spacers under the screen to bring the surfaces to the same level,
Thanks for any suggestions,
Mick
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PostPost by: 10kph » Wed Aug 01, 2018 11:41 pm

Hi,
No spacers are necessary. The gap is filled with butyl rubber sealer, 10mm dia roll for sides and base but the top against roof needs to be 15mm thick. Do some trial measurements and temporary fitting once you have the outer surround bonded to the glass. This hot weather should make curving the chrome surround a piece of cake.
Tony
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PostPost by: Mick6186 » Sat Aug 04, 2018 5:50 am

Tony,
Did you use the bonding adhesive as well as the butyl rubber,
Mick.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Aug 04, 2018 9:48 am

Are the corner parts the correct width for the Trim :wink: I think the new Trim is narrower
Alan
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PostPost by: 10kph » Sat Aug 04, 2018 9:14 pm

Hi Mick,
After bonding the seal to the glass and test fitting I then applied the black butyl rubber 10mm dia to the fibreglass screen surround.and fitted the screen. Due to the hot weather I noticed that my screen was starting to sag due to the butyl sealer not being a cureing type so 2 months ago I removed the screen, applied new butyl sealer all round except for two 2" gaps on each screen pillar which I filled with Dinitrol 500 sealer then refitted the screen. The Dinitrol sets hard as in modern car screens and has prevented my screen from moving in this current sunshine. From what I have read some screen fitters use Dinitrol all round which will be OK unless you need to remove the screen in which case you will end up with a cracked screen and damaged outer surround.Far too expensive a job to add to a paint or dashtop removal.
Hi Alan.
The modern chrome is narrower but seems to cover the top corners when squashed down and the screen pushed upwards. This year I have fitted two screens with a modern rubber surround bonded in place.Probably not for the purist but the rubber lies really flat ,hugs the contour and corners and will be more aerodynamic than the plastic chrome and cheaper, Just what Chapman wanted.
Regards
Tony
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PostPost by: Mick6186 » Mon Aug 06, 2018 8:41 am

Hi Tony & Alan,
The corner pieces from PM appear to be the same as older pieces which matched the contour of the original angular trim. PM told me that they did not match the trim and would need fettling.
I like the idea of the butyl rubber retainer. Much more original and easier to remove without damaging the screen or surround.
I have obtained a laminated, tinted sundym screen and also have a clear toughened glass screen. The problem I have discovered is that the laminated screen is 2mm thicker than the original so is very difficult to fit in the plastic trim. I am going to attempt to grind 2mm off of the edge. 'Nothing ventured nothing gained'.
Mick.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Mon Aug 06, 2018 8:51 am

Good luck, i'm pleased it's you doing it than me. To grind the screen sounds risky. Is it not better to do something with the Trim
Alan
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PostPost by: 10kph » Mon Aug 06, 2018 10:53 am

Hi Mick,
I am sure you mean to trim the plastic so how about taking altrnate say 2" sections out of the back of the U channel which should ease lipping over the glass edge. When you fit the plastic to the screen keep it in place with bits of masking tapeto make sure the fit os OK then start again say from the top centre and pull the trim off the screen enough to apply a bead of dimitrol 500 to the glass edg area and push the trim back in place. This time you can apply masking tape to thescreen frontto keep the trim flush with the glass. Then do the opposite side.
The dinitrol is temperature sensitive but you will have at least 40 to 60mins to play about and smooth any excess.
Leave the assembly to cure overnight and you can handle without fear of the edge detaching. When applying the black bonding solution to the glass I ran a lengyh of masing tapesome 15mm inside from the glass edge and when fitted this straight edge is like modern screens and hides any uneven edge if the butyl mastic.
Good luck
Tony
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PostPost by: Mick6186 » Mon Aug 06, 2018 4:13 pm

Tony & Alan,
Thanks for the replies.
I will try cutting small sections out of the channel. I have two lengths of trim so if unsuccessful I will still have a length of unmolested trim to do the top & sides of the modified(if grinding works) screen and the easier straight run at the bottom can be done with the cut trim. I have two tubes of Dinitrol500.
This hot weather makes the trim very flexible so easy to do the bends, but so floppy it will not grip the screen. I have plenty of tape!!
The corner pieces are identical to the original fitted to the angular trim. The guy at PM told me they would need 'fettling'.
Mick
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PostPost by: Mick6186 » Wed Aug 08, 2018 7:40 pm

I tried cutting the back off of the channel but it was too difficult to get the trim to lay flush with the screen so that's a no go.
Grinding the screen was a non starter as I haven't got a steady supply of diamonds!
So it's either use the thinner toughened glass screen or source a thinner laminated.
I'll keep you posted,
Mick
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