Lotus Elan

Dashboard replacement

PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:49 pm

Never seen one of those forstner bits before, looks the business.
As for the dashboard, it came from Christopher Neil about 20 years ago and has been behind the wardrobe all that time!
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Mar 25, 2018 1:16 am

Sticky Stuff Remover, but as JonB says, test it on the finished 'varnish' in an inconspicuous spot, like one of the edges.


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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Sun Mar 25, 2018 1:40 am

Seems like the same thing as lighter fluid - both have the same ingredients: Aliphatic Hydrocarbons...
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PostPost by: JonB » Sun Mar 25, 2018 10:00 am

I agree with El Veg. Very handsome dash, but it's a bit dark maybe?
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Sun Mar 25, 2018 6:40 pm

I think it?s got darker in its 20 or so years hiding behind the wardrobe!
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PostPost by: RichardHawkins » Sun Mar 25, 2018 8:43 pm

With respect to the fixing holes, I was advised by city polishers to grind the varnish before drilling a hole in order to avoid cracking the varnish when drilling. I followed their advice and did not crack the varnish. The head of the fastener is larger than the hole, so as long as you grind away an area of varnish smaller than the fastener head but larger than the thread diameter you should be ok. My car is an Elan, and uses fibre washers under the fastener head, which I presume is to avoid cracking the varnish.

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PostPost by: The Veg » Mon Mar 26, 2018 11:10 pm

Mine is a bit dark too, certainly darker than the original veneer- but I plan to do most of my driving in daytime! :mrgreen:

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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Fri Mar 30, 2018 4:45 pm

Looks like darker dashboards are the in thing, the Veg is a bit ahead of me in rebuilding.
Had a bit of a setback yesterday, opened the box for my new voltmeter and it looked like this. The vendor was most apologetic and is replacing it and refunding postage, can?t ask fairer than that I reckon. So, the perceived wisdom seems to be to grind off the lacquer before drilling, but how best to do that without the risk of slipping if done using a hand held dremel with a grinder in it? All suggestions welcome.
A selection of small brass screws has arrived to replace the originals that have chewed up heads. Next job is to make a paper template of all the screw holes in the back of the original dashboard to replicate them on the new one. Then it?s lay out the harness and lay in any new cables, pull out any redundant ones and re-bind the harness.
In the meantime, I spent time rummaging around in my loft looking for parts. Both original front seats now in the garage ready to go for recovering and mounting runners removed ready for refurbishing as they are rusty and very stiff. Doors are on the spare bed ready to have the frames, locks and window motors put back. Bonnet still up there at the moment as it?ll only get damaged if I bring it down to the garage.
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e7e5f9a4-b556-4017-bc17-220f51c188ce.jpeg and
New voltmeter with cracked paint
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Fri Mar 30, 2018 5:04 pm

I have not done it, so I am talking off the top of my head, but my first thought is to make a template with a hole in it.
Carefully clamped to the dashboard it will prevent your grinder going over the line.
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Fri Mar 30, 2018 11:47 pm

I like the idea Eric
I?ve plenty of 3mm thick alloy offcuts so can easily make up a plate with a suitable hole in it and with some protective padding on it to protect the lacquer I can clamp it in place and grind in relative safety. Should of thought of that myself really - what a muppet!

I?ve already drilled a 1.5mm hole through from the rear to give me the accurate position, so template making and grinding tomorrow!

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