Elan windshield install
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I know this has been discussed before, but I have a few questions.
I got my gasket and put it one the window. It seems that the gasket is about1/2-3/4" wide. I call r.d. enterprises and they said that was normal. My question is, is that typical. I sure makes installation more difficult. That means the gasket must be put into the opening first, then the windshield installed into the gasket. Easier said than done!
I have that gasket installed in the body opening and the installation cord in the gasket slot. Do I put the cord ends outside or inside?
Sorry to be so basic. I did this install on by 1966 mustang in less than an hour, but I screwed around with the elan windshield for an hour and got nowhere.
Thanks,
Rick
I got my gasket and put it one the window. It seems that the gasket is about1/2-3/4" wide. I call r.d. enterprises and they said that was normal. My question is, is that typical. I sure makes installation more difficult. That means the gasket must be put into the opening first, then the windshield installed into the gasket. Easier said than done!
I have that gasket installed in the body opening and the installation cord in the gasket slot. Do I put the cord ends outside or inside?
Sorry to be so basic. I did this install on by 1966 mustang in less than an hour, but I screwed around with the elan windshield for an hour and got nowhere.
Thanks,
Rick
- rcombs
- Second Gear
- Posts: 147
- Joined: 14 Jun 2013
Gasket into body is the best way anyway.
You really don't need a cord, use a plastic spatula to work the gasket over the glass.
Seat the gasket as tight as you can then plenty of washing up liquid and work the screen in from the bottom.
It will get tight when the top starts to go in, it will respond to a firm slap/push at this point will pop it in.
You really don't need a cord, use a plastic spatula to work the gasket over the glass.
Seat the gasket as tight as you can then plenty of washing up liquid and work the screen in from the bottom.
It will get tight when the top starts to go in, it will respond to a firm slap/push at this point will pop it in.
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1215
- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
There is a cheap tapered nylon plastic tool called a bone tool or window tool that really facilities the job. Get 2 of them and be patient.
- webbslinger
- Second Gear
- Posts: 208
- Joined: 23 Jun 2012
I know it's likely to be different. Quite possibly very different! But I've just refitted the rear screen in my Plus 2. It was a job I was absolutely dreading. I managed the gasket/screen pretty easily with a bit of soapy water and 2 or 3 old credit cards. (I have a lot of them!! ) The bit I found the trickiest was the chrome filler strip. However, even as a total novice and teaching myself 'on the job', I eventually managed that with the Gunson diamond shaped fitting tool, and my trusty credit cards!
Where, then, lies the answer? In choice. Which shall it be: bankruptcy of purse or bankruptcy of life?
Plus 2S
BLL 315H in white.
Plus 2S
BLL 315H in white.
- EPC 394J
- Third Gear
- Posts: 235
- Joined: 07 Feb 2014
I could be completely wrong. I've only tired this once, and I learned (very much!) on the job. I managed it alone, but I was refitting my old screen in the original hole. It was a rear Plus 2 screen, not the front. Yours might be very different?
What I found was this: plenty of soapy water helps to slide the screen into any position you want. A few strategically placed, and then left, credit cards (or very similar) helps to 'lock' the screen in the slot when you don't want it to pop out. With additional cards, just slide them along the soapy groove in the rubber. Like when you swipe in a shop.
Be patient. I managed to teach myself on the job, having never attempted anything like this before.
Lots of tea and/or coffee. A little patience, and thoughtfulness should see you through. It will be worth it!
Just thinking aloud, I might be tempted (with a second pair of hands!) to offer your screen into the surround. Without the rubber, that should demonstrate whether the glass does indeed fit into the hole!
What I found was this: plenty of soapy water helps to slide the screen into any position you want. A few strategically placed, and then left, credit cards (or very similar) helps to 'lock' the screen in the slot when you don't want it to pop out. With additional cards, just slide them along the soapy groove in the rubber. Like when you swipe in a shop.
Be patient. I managed to teach myself on the job, having never attempted anything like this before.
Lots of tea and/or coffee. A little patience, and thoughtfulness should see you through. It will be worth it!
Just thinking aloud, I might be tempted (with a second pair of hands!) to offer your screen into the surround. Without the rubber, that should demonstrate whether the glass does indeed fit into the hole!
Where, then, lies the answer? In choice. Which shall it be: bankruptcy of purse or bankruptcy of life?
Plus 2S
BLL 315H in white.
Plus 2S
BLL 315H in white.
- EPC 394J
- Third Gear
- Posts: 235
- Joined: 07 Feb 2014
After a stone chip this summer Autoglass replaced my S3`s screen. With the rubber surround in place minus the insert 2 blokes put it in place at the bottom and worked around from each side with a plastic spatula thing and plenty of lubricant which looked like diluted detergent. Working the insert in with that diamond shaped plastic thing it was all done in 15 minutes. Maybe they had experience.
Jim
Jim
- jimj
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1119
- Joined: 25 Feb 2008
Practice makes perfect!
I had to my drop head screen twice because the first time I pushed the frame too far back and there wasn't enough clearance on one of the window frames.
After inserting packings the refix only took me 20 mins by myself.
I had to my drop head screen twice because the first time I pushed the frame too far back and there wasn't enough clearance on one of the window frames.
After inserting packings the refix only took me 20 mins by myself.
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1215
- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
i used a pair of those suction cup handle thingies on the glass which made pushing the glass into the rubber easier.
- AussieJohn
- Third Gear
- Posts: 456
- Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Hi,
Below should be a picture of the tools you can buy cheaply on the net.
Without the seal in place use suction cups to hold the screen up to the aperture and check the gap all the way around - on mine if I remember correctly it was something like 3/8.
On mine in one of the corners the gap went tight and looking at it there was an obvious ridge - once sanded away the screen went in easily.
Regards
Steve
Below should be a picture of the tools you can buy cheaply on the net.
Without the seal in place use suction cups to hold the screen up to the aperture and check the gap all the way around - on mine if I remember correctly it was something like 3/8.
On mine in one of the corners the gap went tight and looking at it there was an obvious ridge - once sanded away the screen went in easily.
Regards
Steve
- patrics
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 593
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
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