Lotus Elan

Shims between Body and Chassis

PostPost by: Mick6186 » Tue Dec 02, 2014 1:27 pm

The original chassis I have just removed from my 1973 +2 didn't have any shims but the one I'm flitting needs shims on one front turret. With the chassis in place for marking there is no movement in any direction and the suspension mounts to wheel arch measurements are symetrical so that's where it's going. It sits flat on the front & rear mountings with no shims needed along the centre floor bobbins. I am using a felt saddle. I am working single handed so jacked the chassis into position bare(not me!!) and let the body rest on the chassis to settle for a couple of days.
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Tue Dec 02, 2014 3:51 pm

Again i don't know why but the +2 doesn't have shims but the 2 seater does.

That said when i rebuilt my +2 it was no where near as out of wack as the 2 seater, i'm sure there are lots of reasons why that may be but its almost like the +2 body was test fitted and drilled / tapped where as the 2 seater was done with a Jig and adjusted/shimmed so the holes lined up when fitted?? the reason why i say that is the Holes on the 2 seater are bang on center of the double thickness plates where the +2 are anything but in the center of the plates........ Duno its another odd one in the world of Lotus.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Tue Dec 02, 2014 7:56 pm

Mick,
i think why you needed a shim on one front turret is because when the turret weakens (rusts) it moves towards the centre and distorts the grp.
You just need to check clearance with the camcover and bonnet. I use plastercine to check that on the front of camcover
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PostPost by: pharriso » Tue Dec 02, 2014 8:38 pm

mariodschy wrote:
It is the original chassis, it don't looks like galvanised.


0274 K was originally a Federal Sprint, I have a sister unit 0260K, my chassis was Red Oxided as well...
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PostPost by: Mick6186 » Tue Dec 02, 2014 9:16 pm

Alan,
Thanks for the reply. The original chassis had been previously repaired at the bottom of the turrets & the pin to pin measurement was less than it should have been. If the GRP has in fact been 'repositioned' by the original chassis in this area would it be safe to leave the shimming out in order to move the inner wing back to its original position. The shim required is about 4mm so not sure if this movement would put too much strain on the GRP.
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PostPost by: mariodschy » Wed Dec 03, 2014 6:55 am

Grizzly wrote:Does the Chassis number match the build records? Its getting quite Unusual now to see the original chassis under an Elan, most have been changed due to Corrosion or accident damage.

Nice to have a Numbers Matching car.


Chassis number and VIN Number are matching, also the engine number ist matching, so realy a machting numbers car. :D
I know the former owners and they all confirm that the body was never removed.
It was really a positive surpise to see the chassis after 42 year in this condition, only surface rust and some small repairs to do.

I am also suprised on the engine number that is W 26039, i thought that they all begann whit LP (Lotus Power) but it's the proper engine.

@ pharriso: What engine number has your car who's VIN Number is very close to mine? And you are right the Sprint comes from USA what we can see while the "K" is on the end of the VIN Number.
Fromt 1992 to 2007 she (0274K) was located in the area of New Jersey, bevore she was in North Carolina and Pennsylvania.
Attachments
VIN_PLATE.JPG and
The VIN Plate confirms the numbers...
ENGINE_NUMBER.JPG and
Engine Number, it's a "L" block and the proper engine fitted whit Stromberg head (Federal)
- 1972 Lotus Elan Sprint LHD/DHC
- 1962 Austin Healey Sprite MK II - Sold 09.05.2016

Sorry for my bad survival English ;-)
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:33 am

Mick6186 wrote:Alan,
Thanks for the reply. The original chassis had been previously repaired at the bottom of the turrets & the pin to pin measurement was less than it should have been. If the GRP has in fact been 'repositioned' by the original chassis in this area would it be safe to leave the shimming out in order to move the inner wing back to its original position. The shim required is about 4mm so not sure if this movement would put too much strain on the GRP.
Mick

I would fit a shim, imho this is normal practice and stop stress. It's best not to build in stress. Grp doesn't like stress and this way the chassis and body can work together . For me i like be sure the body is shimmed high enough so you can fit the 2 setscrews at the very front of chassis with shims, not to stress the nose and front Wheel arches.
Alan
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PostPost by: Mick6186 » Wed Dec 03, 2014 1:22 pm

Thanks Alan,
I'm out to the garage now to fit the diff & gearbox into the chassis which is drilled & tapped. I will then somehow!! jack it all up into the body, with front turret shims. I love a challenge!!
Mick.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Wed Dec 03, 2014 1:52 pm

mariodschy wrote:@ pharriso: What engine number has your car who's VIN Number is very close to mine? And you are right the Sprint comes from USA what we can see while the "K" is on the end of the VIN Number.
Fromt 1992 to 2007 she (0274K) was located in the area of New Jersey, bevore she was in North Carolina and Pennsylvania.


My engine number is W25856. 0260K was built in February 1972, looks like your car was built in March.

L011 on the Vin plate (bottom right corner) indicates that your car was originally Regency Red (Maroon.)
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PostPost by: mariodschy » Thu Dec 04, 2014 10:26 am

pharriso wrote:
mariodschy wrote:@ pharriso: What engine number has your car who's VIN Number is very close to mine? And you are right the Sprint comes from USA what we can see while the "K" is on the end of the VIN Number.
Fromt 1992 to 2007 she (0274K) was located in the area of New Jersey, bevore she was in North Carolina and Pennsylvania.


My engine number is W25856. 0260K was built in February 1972, looks like your car was built in March.

L011 on the Vin plate (bottom right corner) indicates that your car was originally Regency Red (Maroon.)


Thanks for the information, it's the scond time that i've heard from a "W" in the engine number (first was mine).
Yes she was originally Maroon, when i've to respray the body (i hope that the acutall paint will be ok for a long time) i'll go back to it's originally paint. Here's a photo from 1989 in it's originall maroon alligator skin look, the sprint decals were also be lost at this time... :D
Attachments
Anfang 90er Jahre.jpeg and
- 1972 Lotus Elan Sprint LHD/DHC
- 1962 Austin Healey Sprite MK II - Sold 09.05.2016

Sorry for my bad survival English ;-)
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PostPost by: mariodschy » Thu Mar 26, 2015 1:04 pm

I could address the riddle:
The threaded hole in the left rear chassis tower doesn't fit to the bobin from the body.
To get the right alignement, they higher the body with the shims beginning in the front of the car step by step.
Here's a picture without shims.
Attachments
IMG_6787.JPG and
Difference sems to be 6mm (4 shims)
- 1972 Lotus Elan Sprint LHD/DHC
- 1962 Austin Healey Sprite MK II - Sold 09.05.2016

Sorry for my bad survival English ;-)
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Thu Mar 26, 2015 11:36 pm

Same dilemma I had on mine 0243K
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
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PostPost by: cabc26b » Tue Apr 21, 2015 6:47 pm

Oddly, the only place I recall lots of shims from the last body off restoration i did was at the very rear of frame - frame was original to car and first time separated from body when I did it . We are talking about an early car though.

george
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shimsS1.jpg and
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PostPost by: DreamBuilderiHope » Tue Apr 04, 2023 11:40 am

Where can i get new shims for a Lotus Elan plus 2 chassis?
What do they look like? (Anyone got a pic of one?)
What thickness and material are they?
Any help, very much appreciated!!!

Dave. :D
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Tue Apr 04, 2023 12:21 pm

Dave,
Buy some alloy sheet metal and get your "Tin Snips" out, make them.
Alan
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