Lotus Elan

How do you take off the dash board?

PostPost by: pauljones » Fri Jun 24, 2011 8:49 pm

Well,

Here it is guys,my dash is now out,thanks for all the advice from around the globe,just a quick question,there is a small disk that i found behind the dash,any ideas what it is? Its about the size of a 10pence bit,had only the black(earth) connected so wasnt working anyway.I will take it out completly,I just wanted to know what it was for in the first place.

Now for the fun to start,I will be sorting out the mess and wiring the dash a bit neater,putting in a few upgrades as I go,so there will be plenty of questions coming your way.

Thanks for the help so far Guys,really,I couldnt have done it with out the advice.

Thanks again,Paul

P.S. The LOTUS is looking rather bare inside!!!
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PostPost by: bob_rich » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:12 pm

Hi Paul

What is the writing on it? wondered if it was a sounder to beep when indicators are on or part of a defunct alarm --just a thought

cheers

Bob
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PostPost by: pauljones » Sat Jun 25, 2011 2:54 pm

I put the wording into net for a search,strangely nothing came up,but I think it is a sound ticker for the indicators.
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PostPost by: Galwaylotus » Sat Jun 25, 2011 3:44 pm

Is that what's in the picture with the black and orange cables? If so, where do the other cables go?
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PostPost by: pauljones » Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:09 pm

The black was off to earth,attached to the rev counter.the red,I know it looks like orange,was loose and not connected to anything,however there was strands of wire on the flasher relay so I think I pulled it apart when I took out the dash.if that's not the case then I'm still not sure what it is.I think I will call it a "Thingy"

Paul
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PostPost by: pcarew » Tue Apr 03, 2018 5:09 am

Hello everyone, I'm 'late to the party' here as this thread was created 7 years ago.

I've had my S3 for 35 years and the fascia panel is way beyond its best so I have a replacement to install.

Reading the Elan workshop manual about the steps involved, I have a couple of questions (the 1st of many I'm sure)

1) The manual says in step 4, to 'remove the water temperature/oil pres. gauge. According to the section on doing this, the sender bulb and capillary tube have to be disconnected from the thermostat and extracted from the front of the fascia as a single unit (gauge+sender bulb).

I was hoping to not have to disconnect stuff from the engine bay. Is this strictly necessary?

2) Step 6 says to remove the face level ventilators. From what I can see, these aren't part of the dash. They sit embedded in the plastic trim off to the side.

Is there something about these that I'm miss-understanding?

Any other issues to look out for? This sounds like it might be quite a daunting task to remove and replace the fascia. Anyone care to share their experiences?

Cheers

Paul (a different one from the original poster) from Austin, Tx
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Tue Apr 03, 2018 9:12 am

Hi Paul,
My car is the same year as yours but I have not removed the dash. I am certain that you will have to remove the capillary tube all the way from the thermostat. This will involve uncoiling it in the engine bay and carefully threading it through into the cabin as you remove the dashboard.
It cannot be disconnected as to do so would lose the ether out of the bulb.
Disconnecting the oil pressure tube will be much simpler.
I agree that it should not be necessary to remove the air vents as they are only connected to the heater by tubing. However with all the wiring there is there it may be easier to disconnect the air pipes to free some wires.
Eric in Burnley
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PostPost by: Foxie » Tue Apr 03, 2018 11:26 am

pauljones wrote:Ah,I thought I might have to take out the centre,hoping I didnt,never mind.But I didnt think about lowering the steering so thanks for that tip.
Many thanks,but as rain and time stopped play,ill crack on next weekend,
Paul.


I don't know about the "Just 2 Elan" but I've changed the dash twice in my Plus 2, and removed it for work a few times and the steering column did not need to lowered.

Most important was to label cableends and connectors with narrow masking tape, mark them with numbers, and also make an indexed list of connectors.

I also took the oppertunity of replacing the oil pressure line with a braided flexible, and capillary temp gauge with electric type.
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Tue Apr 03, 2018 9:32 pm

I?m in mid swop of the dashboard for a new one, pictures elsewhere in another thread. I took it out years ago so have forgotten all about removal and refitting so will be watching with interest on your progress. I?m at the stage of refitting the instruments after either refurbishing them or replacing them. I started at the right hand side of the dashboard and am working towards the left. Just got to the glove box lid and find that my new one doesn?t have a hole for the lock or the handle. The handle is simple enough but the lock looks tricky. I found I needed to Drexel out all the gauge holes as the lacquer had run into them making them too small for the gauges to fit.
Main thing is to take loads of photos, then take some more! They are invaluable come rebuild time to show the routing of the harness, which way up switches etc go and which wire goes where when some of your labels come off!
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine!
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PostPost by: pcarew » Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:57 am

ericbushby wrote:Hi Paul,
My car is the same year as yours but I have not removed the dash. I am certain that you will have to remove the capillary tube all the way from the thermostat. This will involve uncoiling it in the engine bay and carefully threading it through into the cabin as you remove the dashboard.
It cannot be disconnected as to do so would lose the ether out of the bulb.


Hello Eric, yes I'm thinking that your right and I'll just have to do it. Boy this car is becoming a bit of a creeping restoration :-)
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PostPost by: pcarew » Wed Apr 04, 2018 5:00 am

Bigbaldybloke wrote:I?m in mid swop of the dashboard for a new one, pictures elsewhere in another thread. I took it out years ago so have forgotten all about removal and refitting so will be watching with interest on your progress.... I found I needed to Drexel out all the gauge holes as the lacquer had run into them making them too small for the gauges to fit.
Main thing is to take loads of photos, then take some more! They are invaluable come rebuild time to show the routing of the harness, which way up switches etc go and which wire goes where when some of your labels come off!


Hello B^3,
I'll have to watch out for the lacquer issue, thanks for the heads up.

Paul.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Apr 04, 2018 5:06 am

Paul,
don't forget the bottom right screw on the tunnel has an Earth ring from the Harness to it :wink:
Alan
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PostPost by: pauljones » Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:56 am

Hi all.

Wow. I started this 7 years ago. I eventually got the dash out and its now in and rewired. One thing i didn't do was observe the voltage regulator so now i have 12v which makes temp and fuel over read.
Also the bolts that secure the dash keep working loose, i think that was my fault for being a bit over enthusiastic.
While i was taking out the dash,the mounts on the side were attached on wooden spacers. These got mixed up so i had to use judgement. Just be carefull when stripping it.
As said pictures are your friend. You can never have too many.

I do recal finding multiple really bad earths, all going to different bolts and instruments and sometimes daisy chained to each other. They were useless and dangerous. But stopped me taking out dash until each one was found.

It took a while, but i got there with help from here.

Paul, origonal poster.
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PostPost by: pcarew » Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:45 pm

pauljones wrote:...One thing i didn't do was observe the voltage regulator so now i have 12v which makes temp and fuel over read....While i was taking out the dash,the mounts on the side were attached on wooden spacers. These got mixed up so i had to use judgement. Just be carefull when stripping it.


Thanks Paul for the 'gotchas', these are good tips which I haven't seen mentioned before.

pauljones wrote:...I do recal finding multiple really bad earths, all going to different bolts and instruments and sometimes daisy chained to each other. They were useless and dangerous. But stopped me taking out dash until each one was found..


Another good observation.
You said that the earth issue 'stopped you taking the dash out'.
How did you diagnose the earth issues though without being able to access the wiring behind the dash?

Paul (not the original poster :-) )
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PostPost by: pcarew » Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:46 pm

alan.barker wrote:Paul,
don't forget the bottom right screw on the tunnel has an Earth ring from the Harness to it :wink:
Alan

Thanks Alan for reminding me.
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