Lotus Elan

Good Door fit - how?

PostPost by: elanfan1 » Sat Sep 21, 2019 8:07 pm

I?d try Paul Mason formerly of SMS who now works out of a premises at Spyder Engineering Whittlesey. Worth a call.
Steve

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PostPost by: Slowtus » Sun Sep 22, 2019 12:45 am

Some of the doors on some of the Elans I have enjoyed did not fit as well as others - so I did the 'bad' thing, I hacked and whacked at the doors until they did fit and unless you are 4" tall with good eyesight - you will never see the join. :D

I love imperfection, it makes me feel that when I correct these flaws, that I am somehow better than those who built these cars.

I know I am not but...
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PostPost by: 69S4 » Sun Sep 22, 2019 8:35 am

Just to be sure this is the kind of door fit problem we're talking about, right? -

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PostPost by: Mikey » Sun Sep 22, 2019 9:05 am

Yes Stuart, that's the same problem I have although not quite as severe as in your picture. The door fits at the front and around the latch but kicks out at the rear bottom of the door. I'm looking for a recommended glassfibre specialist to reduce the width of the door to correct the fit.
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PostPost by: Mikey » Sat Oct 19, 2019 5:28 pm

Well I've just had my door fit corrected and I'm over the moon with the result. I've lived for over 30 years with sticking out doors and hated it everytime I've approached the car but today that has all been fixed. Not a cheap exercise but boy does it make the car look better. So I want to give a big recommendation to 355 Automobile Restorations International based in Albury in Surrey. They are a really high quality bodyshop with an unbelievable selection of cars undergoing restoration at any one time. So if you need door correction or any other bodywork in the Surrey area they are worth talking to. I have no connection to this company other than a very satified customer. Well done Andy!
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sun Oct 20, 2019 6:26 am

I know a cheap and easy way to get the fitment close
Mine is now perfect actually
Your yellow sprint looks about the same as mine was
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PostPost by: USA64 » Sun Oct 20, 2019 2:54 pm

I know a cheap and easy way to get the fitment close
Mine is now perfect actually.
Your yellow sprint looks about the same as mine was


Don't keep us waiting! I'm about to fit my doors.
We are supposed to be having fun, are we not?
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sun Oct 20, 2019 4:30 pm

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=42449&start=30

Pg 2 describes technique
Pg 3 shows results

I wetted 1-2? by 8-10? mat-glass on polypropylene rolled 4-6mm plastic, to be able to cleanly place now pre-pregged composite.

Clamped bottom edge to flat surface, figured how much weight would be required to straighten door.

Laid glass
Had a Bourbon and a Beer
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PostPost by: baileyman » Mon Oct 21, 2019 1:33 am

Ancient thread! But a good topic. It sure seems like you should consult the expert Brian Buckland http://www.theelanman.com. My own body man here in the USA found one door fit very will, but the other was warped. His solution was to cut the outer skin at and angle and re-glas. Buckland relieves the outer panel and repositions. Personally, I find it amazing new-supplied parts today, after 50 years, contain the same error.

John
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PostPost by: patrics » Mon Oct 21, 2019 7:52 pm

I corrected mine by moving the seal lip further in at the offending area

So first I removed the door seal
Set the door as good as it can be, then set with cardboard wedges
Measured from the seal lip to the door all the way around ? this measurement is quoted in the workshop manual ? 4 decimal places in my book!
The area which was way out was the flat bit below the A pillar ? it says as much in the manual.
I then applied filler to the seal mounting lip and built it up to the correct measurement ? or same as rest of door. On mine the correction was just this bit below the A pillar and the correction tapered off to zero at the top front door edge.
Then apply matting on top of the filler and on to inner body. When set, grind the original lip and the filler off. Apply matting on the new outer lip face to make good.
There was a kick back to the original seal lip at the start of the a pillar at this is where I start and finish the seal. This sounds bad but it worked in my favour as it fits the door better as this is the area of the step between brass window frame and top of door.
I did also cut the door but didn?t have to pull it in much.
I was also lucky to get the original type door seal from Sue Miller I thick Mick had grabbed a roll as the Elan went out of production, I guess he kept it for his own restorations.

Regards
Steve
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sun Oct 27, 2019 8:32 pm

note, if removing 1/8 to 1/4 inch of material from door. where will you make it up
the width of the door, where the Lotus engineers designed it to be is correct
sure, thicker rubber, or some glue. whatever for
keep it simple, and cheap
further, if torque created the problem (from window motors) why not correct the issue with the same
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