Replacing Dashboard on early model +2

[nhhiker]

Thanks for your help. So many things past owners have done badly.

[bcmc33]

Martin (M100) ,

Thanks for the advice regarding the ignition light ? I?ll keep an eye on it.

All my wiring is original apart from the rewiring I've done to add some realays to the system, thats why I like the idea of low current to power LEDs.
Regarding the comment about off-axis vision for external lighting. I have to agree that this was a potential issue in my mind for the rear lights only. But when I tried them the LEDs were better than filaments head-on and marginally better side-on, which proved to me that the lamp optics worked better with superior quality illumination. However, I?ve just checked, and the filaments I was using were RING and not OSRAM.

Now for the good bit - your post mentioned HID lamps for headlights. I was under the impression that HID lamps were approved for OE fit only, but things appear to have changed as a quick scour of the web showed that some retro-fits are approved (http://www.h-i-d.co.uk). Expensive, but maybe worth a look with next year?s budget.



Brian Clarke

[mikealdren]

I would be a bit wary about fitting high intensity lights on a +2 because the +2 light have a tendecy to 'bounce' a little on their screw mountings and the flickering of such powerful lights may annoy other drivers! High intensity lights fitted as OEM usually have quite sophisticated levelling to try to avoid the problem.

Mike

[bcmc33]

I would be a bit wary about fitting high intensity lights on a +2 because the +2 light have a tendecy to 'bounce' a little on their screw mountings and the flickering of such powerful lights may annoy other drivers! High intensity lights fitted as OEM usually have quite sophisticated levelling to try to avoid the problem.

Mike

As I understand, it is a homologation requirement for all OEM HID lights to have self-levelling capabilities .... thats partly why they are so expensive.
Now, according to the HID light kit vendors, there is no such requirement for retro fits in the UK ........ quite strange, don't you think? I guess its worth verifying this condition before buying.

My headlights have only just been converted to halogens, and the electric actuation makes the pods much more steady than the old vacuum system.


Brian Clarke

[mikealdren]

Brian, I like the sound of the electric actuation, what system did you use?

Mike

[bcmc33]

Mike,

This is well documented in Elanman99 thread from last May. That's where I got the inspiration from. http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12924

If you want any more information - let me know.



Brian Clarke

[type36lotus]

Martin (M100) ,
..
All my wiring is original apart from the rewiring I've done to add some realays to the system, thats why I like the idea of low current to power LEDs.
..
Brian Clarke

Keep in mind, relays won't help if dry, brittle wires short out, fatigued connections come loose or corroded connections result in high resistance.
At the age of most of these cars I feel replacement of the wiring loom is the safest thing to do. It certianly lets you clean up and secure all your connections.

[bcmc33]

Mike,

Thanks for the good advice. But in my case I have plenty of time on my hands, and have, as I thought, gone a little OTT in making all new connections crimped onto tinned wires, and where possible soldered the readily available connections - perticularly the ones I have disturbed. To date I have found only three suspect connections.
I am aware that to some people involved in the aircraft industry a soldered connection is a cardinal sin - but I don't see it that way.

I have rewired the front end from the existing relays, and will rewire the windows from the relays I am now fitting. I have been looking at the mass of wires going to the windshield wiper motor I guess I shall do something there before I fit the new dash.


Brian Clarke

[mikealdren]

Brian, thanks for the link. I'm in the early stages of restoration so it's some way off but I think I'll go electric now.

Mike

[Frank Howard]

I am aware that to some people involved in the aircraft industry a soldered connection is a cardinal sin - but I don't see it that way.

Brian,

Now you've got my curiosity up. What is their objection to soldered connections?

[mikealdren]

Frank,
The main argument against soldering is that it makes the connection stiff and brittle and therefore more prone to vibration failure. Crimped connections are more flexible.
This is much more significant in aircraft than cars although there are probably areas where vibration is an issue with cars too (Engine connections perhaps).
There are also some esoteric arguments around corrosion but I think they are probably even less significant.
Mike

[edcrawford]

Thanks to everyone for their help with my original post. Got the old dash off yesterday (found the missing cigarette lighter dangling loose behind the dash!!!!! God only knows what the person who put this dash on was thinking). Changed a few wires and connections but the general condition seemed good. Started again this morning with the intention of putting on the new dash (thinking, this is gonna be easier than I thought, will I never learn) Wired up the ignition to make sure everything is working before the dash is on and its too late, re-connected the battery and.....Nothing!!! No power at all!! My worse nightmare has come true! I'm extremely ignorant when it comes to anything electrical hence my original worry about taking on this job. My mind is racing with the thousands of possibilities that could be causing this so before I get carried away is there anything obvious I should be looking for, or not so obvious as it will probably turn out to be? Any help will be much appreciated as I'm determined to have this car on the road for January 1st. A mans allowed to dream

[Jason1]

Ed, you say nothing? no dash light no starter?

I would start at the beginning, it's easy to jump in and miss the obvious

1. Charge the battery
2. Check the battery is holding 12v
3. Check the battery connections
4. Check the fuses (both sides)

Then check you are getting power to the ignition switch. Then turn the switch and make sure the power switches through.

If you think it may be the switch you could go the quick way and put a spanner across the starter solenoid. It will spark so make sure it is an old spanner The starter should turn over, if you want to start the engine then run a live wire from the solenoid to the + side of the coil and then put the spanner on the two connections. If the starter does not turn over then you really need to check the battery charge and/or connection or that the starter is not jammed.

Good Luck, have fun

Jason

[edcrawford]

Thanks everyone for your help....it was a fuse that was causing my problems...thank God for that!!!
Finally got the dash connected up and fitted today and it looks gorgeous, and only 2 small niggles, the indicator light isn't working..a wire seems to be disconnected (not sure which yet) and the wipers are only working on the very fast speed, I have a feeling that a connection may have come loose which controls the slower speed. Anyone know if there is a connection purely for the slower speed?
Once these niggles are sorted all I need is an ashtray and the black knobs on the heater controls and the interior is finished (if anyone has either of these please let me know)
Finally, thanks again to everyone who has helped with this most tedious stage of my renovation.

[Frank Howard]

the wipers are only working on the very fast speed, I have a feeling that a connection may have come loose which controls the slower speed. Anyone know if there is a connection purely for the slower speed?

Ed,

The good news is that the 5 wire connection to the motor, which is difficult to access with the dash on must be OK if the wipers are working at all. The bad news is that possibly one of the wires has come off the switch, which is also difficult to access with the dash on.

The switch has four wires connecting to it. The W/LG is the power to the switch, so this one must be OK since the wipers do work. The other three are N/LG, U/LG, and R/LG. One of these wires (I don't remember which) feeds the slow speed and it could have come off the switch.

If all four wires are securly connected to the switch and the switch is OK, and you do still do not have the slow speed, then the problem must be where the slow speed wire enters the motor. Let's hope it's a bad connection at the switch. Good luck.