Headlining

[Rob1n]

Hi guys
I need to fit my headlining. I have had my roof repaired to get rid of the hole to where a 70’s glass sunroof was fitted. If I remember correctly the hoops fitted to wire brackets? Also as I have two tubes missing which I need to replace to fit the new lining. Anyone any ideas on what material I could use to replace them. I will also need to fit the interior lights any ideas on the dimensions where they should go?
Sorry about the multiple questions, but the car was stripped down twenty odd years ago so the memory is a bit faint now!

[mbell]

What year/model of plus 2?

[Baggy2]

Hi
I've just done mine (1968 +2) and might be able to help a bit. Firstly, to refer to the fixings as brackets rather overstates their complexity / solidity. They are simply pieces of stiff wire probably about 16 gauge and about 3" (75cm long). One end is looped around a self tapping screw that goes through the top of the door aperture - I guess you see the holes from the previous installation. The looped ends of the wires are retained by spire nuts and the free ends are bent so they poke into the ends of the tubes.
I couldn't tell you the exact spec of the tubes but if you've still got two simply use those as patterns - from memory they are about 3/8" (10mm) diameter and some kind of steel. I worried about getting mine in the right order but in fact they are all remarkably similar to each other and if you start by using your existing tubes as patterns in terms of length and curvature you wont be far out - Maybe the rearmost tube is a little flatter than the others......
Regarding the interior lights the rear / side lights are mounted in the moulding either side of the rear seat so don't go through the headlining. It will be obvious where to put the centre mounted front interior light. There is a receptacle for it moulded into the roof panel. When the head lining has been glued in place you will be able to feel the moulded receptacle through the head lining and carefully cut it to accept the light - make sure the cables are there and working before you glue the head lining in !
I hope that helps a bit - good luck
Baggy

[mbell]

Regarding the interior lights the rear / side lights are mounted in the moulding either side of the rear seat so don't go through the headlining.

Later cars have them in the headliner above the door. I am not sure the exact change over thou. There may also be a change in number of tubes for the head liner.

So what version/age the car is effects the answer here.

[Rob1n]

Hi thanks for your replies.
My +2 is one of those that was rebadged as the spot lights have been cut out and have plastic recesses for the spots to fit in. The car was registered in December 1971 as a plus 2 130S has the lights over the doors not sure if it should have 4 or 5 rods but I bought the lining for a 5. There are no fixing points so I will have to fit those in. I do have the mouldings for the lights but have to fix them into position...somehow?

[mbell]

I'd guess they are just glued in place. On my car the lower edge is 1" up from the door seal lip and 12.5" from the nearest sun visor screw to the left hand edge.

[alan.barker]

For the Hoops on a TVR i used "Kunifer" Brake pipe. No rust.
Alan

[jono]

Hi thanks for your replies.
My +2 is one of those that was rebadged as the spot lights have been cut out and have plastic recesses for the spots to fit in. The car was registered in December 1971 as a plus 2 130S has the lights over the doors not sure if it should have 4 or 5 rods but I bought the lining for a 5. There are no fixing points so I will have to fit those in. I do have the mouldings for the lights but have to fix them into position...somehow?

The metal 'cans' for the courtesy light were fixed with a couple of pop rivets if I recall correctly

[jono]

voila.

The cans are pop riveted through the gutter rail and there are foam pads under the corners as shown. I used countersunk stainless philips set screws with internal washers and nylocs to secure the headlining bow clips and the cans - much nicer than seeing some shonky rivets when you open the door.

There are card liners in the cans - I made some new ones from old suspension files, the material is very similar to the original.

Top tip - put your courtesy light fly leads though some heat proof sleeve, my originals were badly burned by heat build up within the lamp (as was the card).

The felt roof lining is optional but a very much worthwile addition in my view to prevent drumming. The foam padding was my replication of the disintegrated original stuff. I don't think the front screen butresses had anything in them but I rolled up jute felt into a long sausage and stuffed that in then glued a plump cushion of foam over the top - the lining in that position felt so much 'nicer' with this addition, it keeps it under tension so it doesn't become 'baggy'

[Rob1n]

Hi voila
Thanks for the pics. Yes I do seem to remember pot rivets in behind the door seal area. And also good idea for the insulation to the roof. I point I had forgotten is the sun visors how are they fixed.

[Bud English]

I point I had forgotten is the sun visors how are they fixed.

Sun visor mounting info here viewtopic.php?t=32273&p=216497 and here viewtopic.php?t=26015&p=171438

[mikealdren]

I don't think the front screen butresses had anything in them but I rolled up jute felt into a long sausage and stuffed that in then glued a plump cushion of foam over the top - the lining in that position felt so much 'nicer' with this addition, it keeps it under tension so it doesn't become 'baggy'

The buttresses in my car have what looks like original foam filling (it's disintegrating now) and a felt replacement seems a good idea.

[Donels]

The A posts were filled with foam see attached pic.

I was thinking of covering the inside of the roof with self adhesive Dynamat to stop noise and drumming.

[mikealdren]

The A posts were filled with foam see attached pic.

I was thinking of covering the inside of the roof with self adhesive Dynamat to stop noise and drumming.

68088B1C-031A-48B1-8B7D-ADC4CF674D80.jpeg

I'm thinking the same, it should only take a relatively small piece (or maybe pieces), no need to cover the whole area.

[mbell]

I was thinking of covering the inside of the roof with self adhesive Dynamat to stop noise and drumming.

I was thinking standard foil backed insulation, foil point out to reflect heat from roof/sun. Maybe a bit of dynamat, but not full covering as it is heavy and as I understand it it is mostly to prevent vibration/drumming in panels rather than sounds absorption/deadening.