Fitting S3 dash
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Good evening,
I am in the process of refitting the original dash into my S3. It was removed in 1980 by the PO. All the screws line up and it is hard against the lower mounting bracket. The outer two screws will also pull in when tightened (the dash is a little warped). However, it is still about inch clear of the bobbins at the the top two screws above the bonnet release handles. Is this correct? Comparing to pictures on this site, it looks correctly recessed in the crashpad but I am still worried, especially as the dash is a structural part of the body. How much should the dash be inset at the centre from the crashpad?
Another question. Sue Miller provided fixing bolts of different lengths. I assume the two longer ones go top center, maybe because the shorter ones would not reach the fixing bobbins.
As suggested on this site, the heater is hard back against the bulkhead with minimum insulation under.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Cheers.
I am in the process of refitting the original dash into my S3. It was removed in 1980 by the PO. All the screws line up and it is hard against the lower mounting bracket. The outer two screws will also pull in when tightened (the dash is a little warped). However, it is still about inch clear of the bobbins at the the top two screws above the bonnet release handles. Is this correct? Comparing to pictures on this site, it looks correctly recessed in the crashpad but I am still worried, especially as the dash is a structural part of the body. How much should the dash be inset at the centre from the crashpad?
Another question. Sue Miller provided fixing bolts of different lengths. I assume the two longer ones go top center, maybe because the shorter ones would not reach the fixing bobbins.
As suggested on this site, the heater is hard back against the bulkhead with minimum insulation under.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Cheers.
- davidj
- Third Gear
- Posts: 451
- Joined: 09 Apr 2008
My current S3 project has wooden spacers (looked to be made from the same plywood as the dash) behind the main dash panel at the top: about 15mm square, 10mm thick. No idea if they were factory fitted, though the cars interior was very original.
My current S1 car (obviously disassembled/reassembled a few times) had flat washers for spacers across the top 4 bolts.
My current S1 car (obviously disassembled/reassembled a few times) had flat washers for spacers across the top 4 bolts.
Steve
Elan S1 1963-Bourne bodied
Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow
Formerly:
Elan S1 1964
Elan S3 1966 FHC pre airflow
Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
Europa S2 1970
Esprit S2 1979
Elan S1 1963-Bourne bodied
Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow
Formerly:
Elan S1 1964
Elan S3 1966 FHC pre airflow
Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
Europa S2 1970
Esprit S2 1979
- bitsobrits
- Third Gear
- Posts: 418
- Joined: 27 Apr 2011
All elans I've restored have had spacers between top of the dash and the fibreglass shelf. the dimensions mentioned are approximately what I've removed or made when missing using plywood. Also worth noting with the lower brake that bolts to the chassis, I've often tweaked the vertical angle of the late that the lower dash bolts to this to ensure its not stressing the dash.
Cheers
V
Cheers
V
- vstibbard
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 877
- Joined: 22 Jul 2008
Thanks for your advice. It has put my mind at rest. As I said, the original dash is warped. I originally thought this was due to it being sorted for 40 years, but it may be actually been caused from being pulled in at the middle when originally fitted.
Cheers.
Cheers.
- davidj
- Third Gear
- Posts: 451
- Joined: 09 Apr 2008
Gentlemen
I think it is unlikely that the dash is structural (or indeed much of the "shelf") - or at least I have always considered that to be Forum humour. The body contributes at very best perhaps 10% to the torsional rigidity of the chassis.
I was interested to see Vaughan's point on the use of spacers and from my investigation of new bodywork I understand that the holes are drilled according to suit the dash rather than the other way round.
I hope this helps!
Andrew
I think it is unlikely that the dash is structural (or indeed much of the "shelf") - or at least I have always considered that to be Forum humour. The body contributes at very best perhaps 10% to the torsional rigidity of the chassis.
I was interested to see Vaughan's point on the use of spacers and from my investigation of new bodywork I understand that the holes are drilled according to suit the dash rather than the other way round.
I hope this helps!
Andrew
1965 Lotus Elan S2 26/4022 (originally Dutchess Lotus East, PA and NJ Area, USA)
- Frogelan
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 564
- Joined: 03 Jul 2017
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