Lotus Elan

SOLD***Original 26R rear anti-roll bar and links

PostPost by: jabingb » Sun Apr 05, 2020 3:45 pm

I noticed there is some issue with the TTR bar being accepted by some organizations. As this is what was used in the day I would think it would pass scrutineering? $300 plus shipping

Also at top of pix, have two rear 26R steel hubs available.

IMG_7337.JPG and
Last edited by jabingb on Wed Apr 08, 2020 6:34 am, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPost by: Famous Frank » Sun Apr 05, 2020 5:53 pm

PM sent
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PostPost by: knockoffnut » Mon Apr 06, 2020 2:13 pm

PM sent. thank you.
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PostPost by: vstibbard » Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:52 am

they look like S1 26R knock on hubs Jerry

V
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PostPost by: bigvalvehead » Tue Apr 07, 2020 11:35 am

Hi Jerry
You not going to run the ARB?

Cheers
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PostPost by: jabingb » Tue Apr 07, 2020 1:02 pm

V, they are S1 hubs, should have specified that, thx.

Dave, somewhere along the way I acquired a second bar, as well as the S1 hubs, the original bar is going on mine. This was a loooong time ago but I believe the hubs, the bar and a mangled original radiator came from a fellow in the Boston area whose name escapes me right now. A little sleep, got the first name and a search of old e-mails revealed the name of Ed Loveday, Think I got a mangled rad and some of these other parts from him a few decades ago.

On the subject of radiators, while I have the original one it's a leaker and have been told it's irreparable, do either of you have thoughts on a replacement that might look similar. The closest, and not as close as I'd like, is this, that Coolex has done for Jags, a bit pricey too, of course.
A05C9F2B-96DB-4D9B-933A-733B3496D2E9.jpeg and
Last edited by jabingb on Wed Apr 08, 2020 3:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: vstibbard » Wed Apr 08, 2020 4:14 am

Jerry,

I've used an early TTR aluminium radiator, not their latest extra fat one. My view is the system is not marginal if water pump is correctly set up, I have a stainless line running across front of timing chain in picture as a bypass to stop cavitation of water pump that runs to the heater outlet on head, allowing water to flow regardless of thermostat opening, with an expansion tank that takes overflow from 26R swirl pot, see picture, I also use vacuum to fill the system to ensure its absolutely full with no air.

IMG_6515.jpg and


I have run the car in 38Deg C with no overheating, I have no electric fan as I turn off if standing for extended period.

Cheers

Vaughan
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PostPost by: jabingb » Wed Apr 08, 2020 4:36 am

V, very tidy!

Your idea of a small water line bypassing the thermostat is an interesting one, where does it originate?

I might be taking this quest for originality too far. To get the look of the original rad is not economically viable but it was a dream of both me and Dave Bean, we were going to hatch a plan, oh well.
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PostPost by: Frogelan » Wed Apr 08, 2020 5:34 am

Hello Jerry

Would it be possible for you to show us a photo of what an original Racing radiator looks like please (even if it has an authentic barn find patina / dents etc).

This would be interesting as:
(a) I have not seen a clear photo - the period ones are rather rubbishy
(b) although I understand the TTR ones to be reasonable close more detail would be useful
(c) I am having one made based on the VW Polo size

With respect to having one made up, the price will be X if you say, "please quote on this design".

If you say the magic words "Lotus" or "26R", the supplier feels a moral obligation to ask 2X !

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PostPost by: jabingb » Wed Apr 08, 2020 3:39 pm

Andrew, here's a staged pix I just took and have a few more that I'd rather send you directly if you still have the same e-mail addy? I've been digging around in old 26R related e-mails and found the wonderful collage of 26Rs you assembled to help me with color choice, think mine will be this... Jerry

IMG_7482.JPG and


IMG_7308.JPG and
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PostPost by: vstibbard » Fri Apr 10, 2020 6:24 am

Hi,

The coolant bypass line uses the heater outlet near the lower radiator hose connection and comes up and across front of the engine into the head using the heater inlet behind the water temp capillary fitting. You can just see it in the picture covered in heat silver resistant material as its close to the exhaust manifold.

We considered running it along drivers side of the engine then round the back, but its a bit tight there as I also have a bleeding point for the concentric slave up on the firewall.

Cheers

V
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PostPost by: 661 » Fri Apr 10, 2020 8:20 am

vstibbard wrote:Hi,

The coolant bypass line uses the heater outlet near the lower radiator hose connection and comes up and across front of the engine into the head using the heater inlet behind the water temp capillary fitting. You can just see it in the picture covered in heat silver resistant material as its close to the exhaust manifold.

We considered running it along drivers side of the engine then round the back, but its a bit tight there as I also have a bleeding point for the concentric slave up on the firewall.

Cheers

V

Interesting, I'll ask my engine guy about cavitation.
In the picture there's a hooked ?pipe just to the side of your clutch bleed. Have you relocated the dip stick??
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