ME NODIZ Pro GEN-X install in a Plus 2

[stugilmour]

Sorry for the longish break in this project.

I got the ME supplied Ford coil pack mounted. The coil pack is often referred to as a Zetec second generation model. The second generation uses a “pin and tower” connection for the spark plug leads. Note the NoDiz does not require a second EDIS module to drive the coil pack, just a standard three conductor connection to the ECU.

I used a coil pack mount from Trigger Wheels in the UK.

http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p27.html

Generic coil pack bracket from the Trigger Wheels web site. Billed as suitable for both Generation 1 and Generation 2 Ford coil packs. Very heavy steel with pre-drilled coil pack mounting holes.

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Single Coil Pack Bracket

Mounting bracket for a single 4-cylinder coilpack. Fits both 1st and 2nd gen coilpacks

The mounting took a couple of attempts to get right. I left the carbs in place, but still had the radiator removed. I wanted to make sure I could remove and re-install the coil pack with the radiator in place.

To plug the distributor hole I used this bung from eBay:

Classic mini A+ series engine distributor dizzy hole blanking bung plug rover

Blanking Plug for dizzy. For me this plug did not fit the standard dizzy bracket, but worked out OK. I liked this model as it has the O ring seal and stands ~ 1/2” proud of the engine block, which assists in fitting the coil pack bracket.

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Distributor blanking plug for the A+ series engine.
Seal included for an air tight fitment.
Designed to utilize the existing distributor clamp
Will send 1st class next working day

I used a ~1/2” tall epoxied stack of fender washers over top of the 1/4” UNC threaded bracket hole to match the bung height.

I cut down a 1/4” UNC threaded bolt to form a stud. The stud solidly attaches some 1/2” x 1-1/2” steel channel to cover the washer stack and bung.

Edited to add an important caution. The dizzy bracket hole goes straight thru the block. The stud was capable of bottoming out on (I expect) the jack shaft; at any rate it fouls something in there. I had to be very careful I was not rotating the stud inward while installing the jam nut in the 1/2” channel.

The Coil pack bracket (with coil pack attached) is bolted to the stud. This is a bit awkward but doable. Unfortunately there is insufficient clearance to the carb bodies to just use four studs to mount the coil pack to the bracket and be able to remove only the pack.

The steel channel I used was from Home Depot

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/bailey ... 1000165775

Steel channel from Home Depot. Sold as part of metal stud systems. Comes in 12’ lengths; I used this as I had it to hand from another project.

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Bailey Metal Products Steel Channel
1 1/2 inch X1/2 inch X12 ft. 16G
Model # 150U50-54X144PC|Store SKU # 1000165775

Here is a picture of the mounted coil pack. It stands slightly higher than the stock dizzy. I anticipate new custom length spark plug leads can be easily be routed up between the two carbs.

Mounted second generation Ford coil pack. Hopefully can be removed and replaced without removing carbs or radiator.

Next up will be the NoDiz loom and spark plug leads.

[stugilmour]

Thanks to everyone that replied to my spark plug lead questions on this thread

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=54364

I followed up with Magnecor using an available online form to specify requirements. For reference here is their very complete reply, actually received over the Memorial Day weekend.

Hi Stuart
The price for us to make that set with our KV85, 8.5mm wire with 90* coil end with a pin type terminal and straight spark plug boots in the lengths you gave is $129.56 plus shipping. We ship USPS to Canada.
The straight, red spark plug boot we have is 3.5” long so just a little shorter than what you have but by the looks of it, it should be ok. We don’t have a high temp coil boot. The coil boot I will use is for the pin type terminal bent at 90* and it is black.
https://magnecorusa.com/custom/ Here is a link to some of our boots. I will be using the DB66 which can be found under COIL AND DISTRIBUTOR BOOTS 2 and SP11-S-HT which can be found under SPARK PLUG BOOTS 6.
You can call the number below and order or you can email. I will need credit card information along with billing and shipping address if it is different than what you provided. We are here Monday-Thursday 8-3 Eastern time.

We look forward to working with you!

Thanks

Heather
Magnecor USA

I am going to complete the order tomorrow after the holiday weekend. I am probably going to shorten all the lead lengths by a few inches now that I have the coil pack mounted. At any rate, if you prefer one could assemble your own leads from the information Magnecor provided. My thought is I will have enough going on to restart the car without worrying about the details of assembling leads.

All in all really pleased with Magnecor. Thanks again for the recommendation.

Stu

[stugilmour]

I have tentatively figured out the loom requirements. Note I am working with an ME supplied terminated loom specified for a Zetec. If I had it to do over again, I would probably start with their fly lead loom, and specify the addition of the TPS leg. Either way I am finding I am having to de-pin the loom legs to easily fit thru the existing hole in my firewall.

The NoDiz loom is very well made. Seems a bit of a shame to fiddle with it.

Edited to add a loom leg

There are five separate legs to the loom, all coming from the main ECU plug. Loom leg lengths and details….

• Coil Pack three conductor leg 62”. Leg encased in flexible tube. Terminated with the correct oval Generation 2 coil pack plug. Should be easy to de-pin and shorten the two coil trigger wires at the ECU plug. The red 12v ignition supply wire is included in the unterminated leg (discussed below) so this conductor can be easily adjusted to correct length; note this conductor is not connected to the main ECU plug, rather it is folded over at the plug. Would be easier to adjust the length of a fly lead style loom at the coil pack end and then install the ME supplied coil plug with the correct pin sockets.
• Crank Position Sensor (CPS) two conductor shielded leg 83”. Leg encased in flexible tube. ECU plug end includes a ground connection for the shielding, which is going to make shortening this leg difficult. More on that deal when I get it done. After researching the topic, I now realize the sensor end of this leg is actually not grounded (to prevent forming a ground loop), so again a fly lead version and the correct connector and pins would probably have been easier to deal with.
• I will be adding an additional non-stock leg to the five to bring AFR data to the ECU for logging. My AEM AFR gauge provides Analog 0-5v output with a Brown wire for sensor ground and a White wire for 0 to 5v variable output. The idea is to connect this directly to theNoDiz ECU using pins A6 and A2 respectively. Pin A2 is dedicated/labelled to Inlet Temperature, which will not be required in my installation. Note pin A6 is also used for the TPS sensor ground, so re-pinning A6 would probably be required even if the fly lead style loom had been ordered with the TPS leg included. Thanks to @DamianB for this top tip.
• The AEM AFR also requires chassis ground (Black) and 12v ignition supply (Red). I will pick up these two wires at my main connector under the bonnet where all the other wires are assembled.
• Throttle Position Sensor leg was not included in my loom. ME offers this as a loom option, but I wasn’t sure what connector and TPS they use, so opted to make this leg up myself. In hindsight it would probably be better to order this leg included in the loom. Note the Webcon supplied TPS mounting kit came with the required connectors, so very easy if this leg was included as a fly lead leg.
• The separate conductor (unterminated) leg in my loom consists of four conductors for chassis ground (Thick Black), Tach signal (Brown), Coil 12v ignition supply (Thick Red), and ECU power supply (Thin Red). The supplied wires are sufficiently long so no worries there; I didn’t measure them. They are not wrapped in flexible tubing, just loose leads. Easy to deal with and encase in some heat shrink tubing after trimmed to length. All of the conductors will go straight to my existing main under bonnet loom connector.
• Edited to add the fifth loom leg, if I didn’t loose count. Anyway, I opted for an included serial cable which is a short stub leg off the main ECU connector. They also optionally supply an extension lead and USB adapter for this leg. This will work perfectly with the ECU installed in the passenger tunnel, less so for under bonnet.
  

Current plan is to connect the coil pack and AFR 12v supplies and chassis grounds together at my under bonnet connector. This leg can be separately fused at about 10 amps. I think I will be OK with coil supply coming directly from the ignition switch. Any comments on this strategy welcome; I have a second fused relay to hand and could use a similar strategy to the ECU supply below.

The recommended practice for ECU supply is to install a make and break relay using the ignition switch supply as a trigger and getting the ECU power from the cleanest source, which in my case is readily available at my under bonnet main connector. This will be separately fused for 3 amps with an integrated relay and fuse.

So that’s the plan.

The toughest part is going to be shortening the shielded CPS. There are inline videos that show this procedure using a heat shrink style solder connector to pick up the shield ground and the two conductors emerging out the end of the solder blob. I am kind of nervous about pulling this off successfully, and a miss would require a whole bunch of hassle. I may just simply purchase a new standard Ford CPS connector plug and shorten this leg at the crank sensor end. Not a big deal now as I will be waiting on the spark plug leads anyway.

Stu

[stugilmour]

A quick note on new socket connectors for the ME NoDiz ECU connector. The ME web store unfortunately does not list these as an easily purchased item. They were able to supply me some, but they were extremely expensive (with international shipping and handling) and difficult to pay for because it was a custom order.

Here are the correct pin sockets from eBay UK. Note the following two sizes are used in this connector.

10 x Female Socket Terminals to fit Genuine Delphi 2.8mm Sicma Sealed Series
Terminals Part Number: 211CC3S2120

10 x Female Socket Terminals to fit Delphi 1.5mm Sicma Sealed Series
Delphi Part No.: 211CC2S1160P

The supplier I used is called 3 Way Components on eBay. Unfortunately I can’t simply copy an item link from eBay because they have changed how it works. I have included a picture of one size for reference.

Note the pin sockets use a standard double fold style crimp. That said, the connector block is a bit awkward to work with as it includes a moisture proof seal. 20 20 hindsight indicates working on the other ends of the various loom runs is probably the way to go.

At any rate, the NoDiz kit includes a few socket terminals in both sizes. Unfortunately with all the re-pinning in my installation I needed a few more.

[stugilmour]

When I was reviewing available ignition systems I couldn’t find dimensional data for the NoDiz Gen X Pro ECU. They are working on posting a proper drawing with mounting hole centres.

Here are a few pictures of the unit. Allow about 4 1/2” wide by 5” long and 1 3/4” tall, without including extra length for the attached plug. The unit is very light, under half a pound at a guess. Don’t confuse the NoDiz with their larger Fuel Injection ECU, which has two connectors and is considerably larger.

According to ME the unit is weather proof and can be mounted under the bonnet. I could not see an easy under bonnet area in my LHD Plus 2, but I have a bunch of extra stuff in the way. Under bonnet mounting would simplify things considerably.

I am mounting the ECU on the right (passenger) side interior in the pocket formed by the right side tunnel bulkhead and the inner fender fibreglass. I used this spot to mount my previous MSD ignition box, which is considerably larger.

Hopefully I will be able to pull each loom leg, terminated with pre-installed connectors, up to the firewall so I can work at a table to complete the re-pinning at the ECU plug without having ridiculously long runs in the finished product.

My plan is to use a small plastic panel to hold the ECU power supply relay and the ECU. I have a small metal basket mounted already that will hold the whole affair in some cushioning foam.

Note the ECU case does not require grounding.

Stu

[stugilmour]

Quick follow up on the CPS connector.

It appears the correct connector for the standard Ford style crank position sensor is called up on eBay as:

eBay Item Number: 155351420391

RW 2 Pin Bosch Jetronic/Minitimer Quick Release Connector Plug CPS-035

Raceworks 2 Pin Bosch Jetronic/Minitimer Quick Release Connector Plug (Plug and Pins) CPS-035

Product Description:

Raceworks 2 Pin Bosch Jetronic/Minitimer Quick Release Connector Plug and Pins.

Raceworks have developed a comprehensive range of connector plug adapters and extensions, enabling a quick and simple upgrade to almost any application.

All Raceworks products come with a 2 year warranty.


Manufacturer: Premier Auto Trade

Taking a shot and ordered. Surprised an eBay search only found suppliers in Australia and the UK. Anyway, this should be the simplest way to get Stella on the road again.

[stugilmour]

Made some more progress on the NoDiz project.

Here is the wired ECU with two power supply relays. I installed separate relays for the ECU power supply and the coil pack power, which is already run within the NoDiz loom to the ECU connector block area, so a relay seemed to simplify things.

Wired NoDiz Gen-X ECU with power supply relays. Everything is mounted on sheet styrene and pops away out of sight in the passenger side tunnel. I kept the loom length long enough to make it easy to access.

I used a direct +12v battery connection bus that was already available under the bonnet, right or passenger side. I already had added a 11 pin block connector in this area to accommodate previous electronic ignition installations.

This picture shows the 11 pin connector block and the main +12v power bus, which essentially replaces the stock starter solenoid. I used a 3/4” firewall hole with a correct thickness 3/4” x 5/8” ID grommet from RD Enterprises. Note you need this to hand to trim and feed all the loom legs, so make sure to order before you start the installation.

The connector already has a very stout ground that runs back to the main ground bus on the right side dash mount, a couple of ignition wires that are now used to trigger the power relays and power the Wideband O2, a tach signal wire back to the refurbished Smiths tach, and some vestigial wires for the stock coil and dizzy. The stock security switch is long gone from my car.

As mentioned previously, I am using a fully terminated Zetec loom. The individual loom runs are too long for my installation, so unfortunately every run requires shortening. I would recommend trying to get a fly lead version of this loom and request they include any additional runs you want along with the appropriate connectors. Worth a shot but I don’t see this option directly offered on the Motorsports Electronics web site.

The loom is of very high quality, with individual runs inside plastic coverings. There is approximately 4” loose length of all the plug wires next to the ECU block connector (after easily unwrapping some non-adhesive loom tape) which provides easy access to the female pin receivers in the block connector (after un-clipping the back of the block connector and moisture barrier). The instructions indicated the new crimped pin receivers on the shortened conductors can be pushed through the flexible moisture barrier, but I found it easier to draw each raw wire through the gasket and then perform the crimps.

Using this method I shortened the three conductors to the coil pack, three new conductors to the TPS (should have specified this leg be added to the Zetec loom), and the unwrapped chassis loom wiring for power, ground, tach signal, Wideband O2 signal. Pin A6 (Black) is used for sensor grounds, which in my application included the Wideband O2 data pair (data wire routed to the dedicated A2 Inlet Air Temperature Sensor) and the TPS ground.

The exception is the CPS, which is two conductors within a grounded shield. The grounded shield shares pin B7 with the Serial RS232 ground, which makes shortening this run difficult at the ECU connector block. I used an easier approach and purchased a new CPS connector and shortened the other end. Note this is really easy because the ground shielding is just stripped back to expose the two conductors that are simply crimped to the standard pin receivers. The ground shield is not attached to the CPS connector. I don’t have the exact call up for the two pin receivers, but they should be very easy to source as a Mini Timer connector, saving the cost of a whole new connector. They are the same pin receivers as used on the Webcon TPS connector. The CPS connector has integrated moisture seals that can be reused with care.

I also made up a matching 11 pin connector that accommodates the original points and coil without too much fuss. Plan is to have the stock stuff in the boot.

I had to further modify the coil pack mount a bit. Once I fitted the spark plug leads I was fouling the carb intake runners. Note my engine is non-standard so may have somewhat different clearance in this area. At any rate, I removed the 1/2” spacer bar noted above, modified the packing washers, and re-drilled the coil pack mount, which lowered the mount away from the block. Unfortunately this caused some interference with the Plus 2 heater hose run, which is very difficult to access with the engine in place. The main point is it is pretty much essential to have the radiator out of the way, but I have not had to remove the carbs to get it sorted.

Next steps are to re-assemble the cooling system, check everything over, and try to start her up. I also still need to download the ECU software to our ancient laptop and connect the supplied USB to serial adapter. After initializing the TPS range, the biggest step is to set the timing of the CPS, which is individual for each installation. Apparently there is a zero advance setting in the ECU to make this one time procedure really straightforward. From then on the ignition map is all digital, and the base map is anticipated to be close enough to run the car.

I have got a promising lead on a local dyno shop for final tuning if required. A friend has his stock Weber Plus 2 in for a session now, so we will see how that goes, but at least we know the car will fit the rollers and they do a lot of carb setups.

So the main takeaway from this update is to have everything you can think of to hand before starting the installation. This included in my case the custom plug leads, CPS connector or pin receivers, wiring strategy into your car, correct TPS connector (mine was supplied with the Webcon TPS bracket and sensor), the firewall grommet, Wideband O2 connectors and the two sizes of pin receivers for the ECU block connector and some miscellaneous loom tape and plastic shielding. A top tip is to have extra pin receivers to hand as it is easy to miss-crimp one without practice to make sure of the required crimper.

I should add the ECU also has provision for driving an electric cooling fan relay and a fuel pump relay. If I were installing the NoDiz in conjunction with a full rewire I would probably use these features and centralize everything in the revised relay and fuse boxes. I already have an aftermarket fan controller and an electric fuel pump installed, so will leave as is. Keep in mind adding additional sensors could require additional conductors on the sensor ground pin A6, so plan accordingly.

Other features not required for our cars include launch control, cam position sensor, and knock control.

Hopefully we are up and running shortly.

[2cams70]

Knock control is a useful feature if you can incorporate it. Around 10 years also one of the local Australian Electronics magazines published a DIY programmable ignition kit that incorporated it. It used a commonly available piezo knock sensor that could be attached to the block. Virtually all cars have a couple of knock sensors on the block these days.

[stugilmour]

Excellent suggestion on the knock sensor.

For reference, here is a link to the knock sensor Motorsports Electronics use. Looks like it would use a similar Mini Timer pin receiver as the other sensors outlined above. I would assume this would easily work with their programming software, which is at the “wish me luck” stage on my project.

https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/pr ... ck-sensor/

Listing on the Motorsports Electronics store.

I won’t be installing one at this point, but probably should have either specified the inclusion of a knock sensor leg in the loom or added the wiring while I was there. As already mentioned, this sensor (or the coolant temperature sensor required for the cooling fan relay option) would require attaching additional conductors to the sensor ground pin receiver in the ECU block connector.

I considered adding the wiring for these options, but man those pin receiver crimps are small! Getting just two conductors on the crimp was reasonably tricky.

Just for reference, where is an obvious place on the TC to attach this sensor? Is it a bolt on affair? I am sure this is well trodden ground with the various FI installations.

Regarding Zetec loom options, I checked back on the Motorsports Electronics site, and this appears to be the listed best option for our cars. I may have confused what was available for loom options with some of their other offerings for their full fuel injection ECU, which has a fly lead option with an easy way to add the various connectors.

That said, I am thinking the online store offerings/details may have changed a bit from when I ordered. It could have been in a follow up online chat during the final purchase and shipping arrangements, but I recall having the option to specify which sensor legs would be included. e.g. I vaguely recall a drop down selection for inclusion of the TPS leg which I didn’t include as I was getting the Webcon TPS kit. It now appears both suppliers use the same connectors (perhaps even the same TPS sensor but not sure) so guessing it would have been easier with this leg added/included in the loom.

I am assuming they would be able to accommodate a clear request for an assembled multi-leg loom (using their existing generous length templates) complete with the sensor connectors but with none of the supplied connectors crimped in place. Might be way off base, but that would be worth asking about in an eMail. Unfortunately I wasn’t knowledgeable enough to ask for something like this when ordering.

The key point is Motorsports Electronics are quite responsive, but the whole purchase process is a bit distant from a complete plug and play kit that could perhaps be specified with a series of simple online drop down boxes.

Hoping my rather wordy writeup here will make it easier for the next guy. I am completely new to a project with these complications, but am confident I will get it right. I searched the interweb pretty thoroughly and couldn’t find much detail in the available installation blogs and videos. Being in the Great White North has complicated ordering and shipping a bit, so hopefully this writeup provides enough detail to gather up most of what us needed before you start.

Thanks again to everyone that has helped so far, particularly DamianB, who has basically completed the same installation and got it working great. Feeling very close to the finish line!

[2cams70]

Just for reference, where is an obvious place on the TC to attach this sensor? Is it a bolt on affair? I am sure this is well trodden ground with the various FI installations.

If I recall correctly that magazine article had some suggestions about this. There was also various algorithms you could use to tailor the timing retardation response to knock. The knock sensor you pictured I think is the same as the one suggested for use with the kit. Should you be interested in taking it further I can dig around and try to find the article.

[stugilmour]

Should you be interested in taking it further I can dig around and try to find the article.

Thanks for the clarification. I will leave the knock sensor out of the mix for now. Sorry for such a late reply; I didn’t see that the thread was active.

[stugilmour]

Success! She is alive!

Once again apologize for the long break in this thread. I was focusing on some other areas of the car. I installed a new wide radiator from Coolex, modified the coil pack mount, and cleaned up some minor wiring issues while doing the NoDiz loom.

After digging out our ancient laptop, fixing the hard drive, getting set up etc. it was time for startup.

I pulled the ECU 5 amp fuse and made sure the basic power supply wiring was OK. The ECU was then fired, delivering a slow flashing blue light on the ECU. All good.

Software download and install was painless. The supplied USB to serial port adapter and serial extension cord worked perfectly, finding the correct driver automatically on Windows 11 with no issues. The package indicates the driver is standard, so no need to download one with the tuning software.

The tuning environment includes a quick wizard to set the Throttle Position Sensor. Simply enter the Wizard and press the two set points and done.

The first step in the instructions says to set the zero degree timing mark on the starter with the fuel pump off. So far I have played around with this a bit, but the out of the box setting is pretty close so I ended up where I started. I am having the usual difficulty reading the timing marks, particularly on the inconsistent starter speed. Decided to leave it as is and start the car.

The car fired right up. I am hoping the base timing can be trimmed up by setting the software to hold advance at a set 10 degrees and run the engine at a fast idle. Then you can alter the base timing angle in increments to get it right on the money. That’s the plan anyway.

The engine was running well enough to test drive. It is running way better already on the supplied ignition map. AFR readings, particularly at light throttle openings, are more stable and the engine is smoother.

I only had time for minor observation of the total advance at different loads and engine speeds. The map is adding tons of advance at low load, just what I wanted. Peak advance while putting the boot to it is about 34 with no pinging observed. Bottom line is I think I am very close, and hopefully I can get it tuned in the next few weeks.

It is pretty clear I am a bit rich on my jetting, but the engine just wouldn’t run we’ll leaned out. I will try a few leaner jets after I confirm the base timing.

I can see O2 numbers being delivered to the ECU, but they don’t correspond yet to the AFR gauge. I need to dig in to a translation table to get the data logging working correctly.

Thanks for all the help with this project. I have learned a lot, and I think this 3D ignition will be a keeper.

[stugilmour]

Quick follow-up on my No Diz installation.

Lynn & I recently completed an absolutely epic trip in the Plus 2. In two weeks we travelled 3,400 miles from Calgary AB to Clear Lake CA for the West Coast Lotus Meet (WCLM). The route included the Oregon coast, the Lost Coast of Northern California, and a more direct return on Interstate 5 through Grants Pass to Portland followed by various highway cruising to home.

The car ran beautifully! Mileage was great, averaging 26.6 mpg US (31 mpg Imperial, 10.6 litre / 100km). We dipped to approximately 22 mpg for the challenging Grants Pass uphill section. We were steaming by the eighteen wheelers in third and fourth gear with only a few degrees added to coolant temperature. This was offset by about 31 mpg in flat two lane cruising. Used less than a half quart of 20/50 for the whole trip.

Before leaving I tried one step leaner idle jets (55F8), but decided we would be better with 55F9 we had in originally once we were at sea level. The AFR readings were fine from sea level to a high of about 6,000 ft. Calgary is about 3,700 ft, so we usually need to be a bit on the lean side of jet recommendations here. Only tuning adjustment was tickling the idle screw while at sea level.

Our ambient temperature variation was an excellent test; we were slightly below freezing several mornings and a high of maybe 32 degrees C cruising through Napa Valley. We escaped any snow on the return trip, but weather challenges included rain, fog, bright sun, basically everything.

As mentioned before, I am just using the map they supplied, no follow-up rolling road sessions. It seems fine.

I see the Motorsports Electronics web site has changed a bit, and not sure they offer the Zetec loom I used. Although I haven’t checked, it looks like the Fly Lead loom would be better for an Elan installation anyway.

Very pleased with the decision to mount the coil pack where the stock distributor goes. The Magnecor spark plug leads can all be left in place should the engine need to be removed for service. No issues with rain water.

ECU mounting inside the car is definitely the way to go. No moisture issues.

So there you go. A totally positive experience. Way better engine performance, particularly four lane cruising. Fast road use in the twisties is marvellous, no stumbles. Particularly like having a very tractable engine from idle to about 3,500 rpm when driving the steep grades in San Francisco. Well worth the effort, and hopefully this thread has enough help with some of the connector and component details that a similar installation could be done a lot more efficiently than I did it.

HTH

Stu

[DamianB]

Hi Stu,
Many thanks for sharing the tale of what sounds like a fantastic road trip to the WCLM and back. You seem to have had that same happy experience as I have with the Nodiz ECU, namely that it is a great addition to a well sorted twincam, making it perform even better, and tractable all the way from idle.

I am curious how you connect to your Nodiz when you want to. I would love to find a surface mount USB-C female to Serial connector. Plan would be to fit it in the back of the glove box and then just plug in a common USB-C cable between it and my laptop. But I haven't found such a connector yet and need to use a 9-Pin RS232 to USB cable, which seems clunky and unnecessary.

[stugilmour]

I just used the cord they provided. I think it is this one. I never thought about USB-C compatibility as my laptop had the older USB, but can see now that could become an issue. I never fully figured out the data logging feature, just confirmed I could see a data stream on tge tuning software.

https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/product/ftdi/

Regarding the data logging, is there a way to alter the decimal point, or perhaps the data table doesn’t limit the precision? I seem to recall the data coming thru the temperature wire was displayed without decimals? Maybe I just haven’t correctly figured that feature out, although I think I wired it correctly.

Anyway, the car is running so well now I am definitely moving on to a few other challenges this winter. I have new springs and adjustable perches to install,v along with new bushings. In addition I have everything assembled to renew the headliner and front glass, which is going to be another ‘interesting’ job I am sure. Really quite heartened with others who have done this job.

Stu