Following up with additional information on the Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 200 in-tank pump kit mentioned above.
Kyle pointed out the bladder/baffle has four openings to the main tank, but they have no effective check valves to retain a high fuel level at pump suction. I found Aeromotive Bladder Baffles SKU 18020, which are small check valves that can be fitted into the existing holes. They should probably be included in the basic kit.
https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/phant ... 6+18689%29Was able to examine a kit locally. The bladder and foam are ~7” diameter and ~12” tall. The kit is specified to a 11” max tank depth (1” of foam compression to hold everything in place). If required, I found Phantom Extension kit SKU 18788 that will accommodate a tank depth of up to 22”. I would hope the basic kit could be fitted/fettled into the ~12” high Plus 2 tank, but just in case it is good to know there is a designed solution.
https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/phant ... nsion-kit/My Axminster tank is in the car, so measurements are approximate. Tank is 25” wide, 14” front to back, and 12” high. The tank floor slopes upward 2” toward the front, leaving about 6” of flat floor at the rear. Fuel level sender centred on back wall. The right side filler is located toward the rear of the tank. This leaves the right rear as the most promising spot for the unit. My 1” wide hold down strap is presently ~2” in from the right wall, so that may need to be moved slightly to avoid the pump outlet cap and gasket.
Andy at Axminster Tanks got back. Said there are internal bracing and baffles that will have to be avoided. Although he said the weld locations should be visible on the outside walls, they seem to be pretty subtle. I think I see bracing located 8” in from each side, but the sender will have to be removed to check visually. Probably smart to do this prior to buying a kit.
To be honest, Andy was not that keen on the Phantom kit, so there is that to consider.
Assuming there is 8” open at the right rear of the tank, I think the 7” diameter kit should fit. The foam and bladder should be flexible enough to deal with a few inches of sloping floor toward the front of the bladder. I would try to clock the bladder to locate the four fuel entrance holes clear of the tank walls, any bracing, and the sloped floor. The top mounting cap should be about 4” to 4 1/2” diameter (should have measured it) in order to cover the 3 1/2” hole in to the tank, so I expect the hold down strap scooted over an inch should work? The stereo speaker is very close as well. Cap would be clocked to take the fuel hoses to the left. There is just enough clearance below the valence panel for the mounting cap and AN-06 hose, but not for a fuel filter.
Plenty of room under the fuel filler for a filter, regulator, etc. if desired. Would use AN-06 hose over to the centre of the boot front bulkhead. The Spyder chassis has provision for 3/8” hard tubing on the top of the tunnel. Thinking AN-06 bulkhead fittings could attach to the tubing, which could be fitted between the body and the frame below the fuel tank. My engine and transmission are out right now, so hoping the lines would slip in from the front.
Have attached a few pics I found on the forum that have been a big help.
Next topic I am examining is locating the pressure regulator. I am hoping to use Jenvey Heritage TB’s, so the fuel rails inside each TB are effectively deadheaded. I would like to mount the full return regulator in the boot and run a single high pressure fuel supply line forward to a conventional tee style fuel loom. This saves fussing how to bring a return line over the bell housing. I see sone folks have done their installs this way, rather than locating the regulator somewhere under the TB’s. Given the difficulty installing lines with the drivetrain in place, I will probably run both tubing runs now in case the deadhead setup doesn’t work too well. Any thoughts welcome.
Stu
Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 6:49 pm
