Lotus Elan

1969 ELAN+2 SE, powered by TR6 unit

PostPost by: el-saturn » Tue May 21, 2019 11:13 am

gus -- if you're like one of those lovely british fabricators (f1 - mini 850 modsports) you'll have the engine's subframe all welded up (+ a few cuts) in 5hrs!! good luck sandy as just said: that engines looks perfect in there!
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Tue May 21, 2019 12:09 pm

gusvlachos wrote:Almost all known mods for stiffness to the std Chassis previous posted to" Lotus Elan.Net " , have been done and much more. The "box" technic applied everywhere were possible.
Original chassis have been rewelded and reinforced with 2mm & 3mm plates inside-out, especially in front & rear towers,as well as crossmembers, TUNNEL and all mounts & weak points prone to crack.
In conjuction with the "limited roll cage " !, the reinforced GRP body and the adds of tower/strut bars front & rear, the roll stiffness of this project 'll be exceptional for road use. :roll:


Looks like you have that covered ! I must have missed your earlier posts.
It will be interesting to discover the weight distribution with the longer engine.

Fascinating project, I'm in awe of your skills.

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PostPost by: gusvlachos » Thu May 23, 2019 6:53 am

el-saturn wrote:gus -- if you're like one of those lovely british fabricators (f1 - mini 850 modsports) you'll have the engine's subframe all welded up (+ a few cuts) in 5hrs!! good luck sandy as just said: that engines looks perfect in there!


El-Saturn, I don't know if I am like those, but I always tried to build my crazy plans.
Last edited by gusvlachos on Thu Jun 06, 2019 8:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: Adam_R » Sat May 25, 2019 6:42 am

more details on the mini engine?
I've not seen a head like this fitted before, its usually the K1100
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PostPost by: gusvlachos » Fri Apr 03, 2020 12:05 pm

After removing 4 coats of previous paints + the original spruce green coat (can't accept modern 2K paint thinner). After body cracks repair with naval epoxy resin and two coats of 2K primer (one thick, one thin) with an unstoppable sanding & fine filling, the car is painted with this shade of BRGreen ???!!!!. :roll:
Last edited by gusvlachos on Mon Apr 06, 2020 7:03 am, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPost by: gusvlachos » Fri Apr 03, 2020 12:11 pm

Here it is:
Attachments
IMG_20200403_124751.jpg and
IMG_20200403_124646.jpg and
IMG_20200403_124526.jpg and
IMG_20200403_115551.jpg and
IMG_20200403_115224.jpg and
IMG_20200403_114817.jpg and
IMG_20200402_171614.jpg and
IMG_20200321_143410.jpg and
IMG_20191130_131922.jpg and
IMG_20191016_154829.jpg and
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Thu Apr 09, 2020 8:13 pm

Good job. Man after my own heart :-)
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PostPost by: gusvlachos » Tue Sep 01, 2020 9:42 am

The car mechanically finished yesterday. The first ride impression was absolutely fantastic. The power/torque through 4/6-o/d gears was terrific for road use, in this relative lightweight project !
The handling first impression in fast cornering was very good, with very reasonable understeer.
This thanks to 225lb front coils, adjustable Koni's, and engine's position (moved backward as far as heater allowed - cut body pocket, leaving a lot of free useful space in front of the engine bay, as looks in the photo).
Brakes with the use of TR 6 double master cylinder, repositioned fluid reservoir and independent front servo unit was satisfy enough.
I add also some details of DIY electronically pop-up headlamps ponds, as well as for cooling system.
Next job, wiring loom, interior & exterior work. More to come.... :D
Attachments
IMG_20200502_111921.jpg and
IMG_20200901_101952.jpg and
IMG_20200728_131622.jpg and
IMG_20200901_101850.jpg and
IMG_20200901_101208.jpg and
IMG_20200901_101025.jpg and
IMG_20200901_101731.jpg and
IMG_20200901_111215.jpg and
IMG_20200901_110931.jpg and
Last edited by gusvlachos on Thu Sep 17, 2020 3:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: TBG » Tue Sep 01, 2020 11:49 am

Gus that is truly amazing quality. Very well done indeed. I wish you lived next door to me!! Fancy a holiday for a month or two in Somerset? :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: gusvlachos » Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:08 am

TBG wrote:Gus that is truly amazing quality. Very well done indeed. I wish you lived next door to me!! Fancy a holiday for a month or two in Somerset? :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Ha-Ha thanks, I wish you too, cause my present neighbor is a Big jerk !! :lol: Thanks for the invitation, I'd love to. I 've a lot of years to visit my lovely GB, also the invitation applies to you, to Rafina - Athens. Thanks again :D
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PostPost by: HCA » Wed Sep 02, 2020 10:46 am

En route you can call in here for a weekend! I have two gites, and in return you can give me some pointers in making my build look as good as yours!

I understand from other forums the difficulty in engineering in Greece, so admire what you have done 100% :D
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PostPost by: gusvlachos » Wed Sep 02, 2020 10:55 am

HCA wrote:En route you can call in here for a weekend! I have two gites, and in return you can give me some pointers in making my build look as good as yours!

I understand from other forums the difficulty in engineering in Greece, so admire what you have done 100% :D

My pleasure, I always share knowledge 8) Btw, what is your build ?
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PostPost by: wsmempson » Sat Oct 24, 2020 3:55 pm

Many congrats - The car looks fantastic!

I used to race a Triumph TR5 and owned several TR6's, so know the engine and PI system well. The weak point is the fuel pump in the boot, which is basically powered by a Lucas windscreen wiper motor, and is prone to overheating. It is marginally more reliable when mounted horizontally (but not by much) and most people change out the pump and filter for Bosch items from someone like Racetorations or Pumfords. The conversion doesn't cost much, but it is sooo much better!
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PostPost by: gusvlachos » Wed Oct 28, 2020 7:22 am

Thanks a lot WSMEMPSON for your valuable suggestions. I know these problems, but it is for initial trial and I putted the parts I had available. Usually I use Pierburg fuel pump. As you can see, my next step is all fuel linings in the boot (rubber hoses), will be replaced by copper-nickel pipes and I 'll put 6 1/2" ram pipes (trumpets) instead of these weber 45mm trumpets, in the inlet manifold. In front of these ram pipes I 'll reposition the injectors from their std position. It is a clever modification that gives a significant power & torque increase and it was established in US car races by Kastner & Lund, some clever engineers back in '70s, who spend a lot of time in a dyno to gain something more from this PI engine, as well as David Vizard did
Thanks again.. :D :D
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