Spyder +2 zetec owners on elan.net?

PostPost by: Foxie » Wed Sep 23, 2015 2:46 pm

spyzee wrote:Sure thing:

I made a little adapter to fit into the jacking holes that would sit neatly on top of a standard jack. I then found that the rover 25 standard jack set contained exactly the type of jack I was looking for and it also had a wheel brace that fitted the wheel nuts all packaged up to fit inside the space save in my boot (trunk). It works a treat and looks good as well.

Colin


Here is the mod I made to a std motor factor jack some years ago. I drilled the seat of the jack and brazed a 7/16" nut inside it. When I want to use the jack on the sill lifting point, I screw in a 7/16" cut-off bolt with a 40mm sleeve :D
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PostPost by: mds4544 » Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:35 pm

Work on my 1974 is moving on at last. Blockin, filling and priming start this week. The fuel lines are in and the alternator is test fitted.

Final choice of metallic red paint to be made (Mazda velocity red is ok but have two more to look at)

Happy to have found quarter rubbers at Kelvden along with lower channels (wasn't' looking forward to fabricating the double curve at all).

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PostPost by: csm2760 » Thu Jan 21, 2016 12:39 pm

Hi guys, Im fairly new to the forum, and hugely impressed by the depth of knowledge exhibited here. Im very interested in taking the plunge into Elan ownership, owing largely to the enthusiasm shown by my old boy, who owned a ?72 Elan Sprint when it was hot off the line.

Ive been following with interest this thread (and others) relating to the Spyder Zetec conversion, and was particularly impressed with Alan Thomas? supersprint build, what a beauty!! Im ideally looking to own something that can be used reliably every day rather than confined to nice sunny weather, especially considering that in the North of Scotland sunny weather is a fairly rare commodity. Besides which, Im not mechanically minded, and quite some way from the specialist Lotus network for fettling purposes.

However, Im not really sure how best to approach this? Ive seen plenty of technical advice, but there seems to be a lack of discussion as to costings. Over the last year or so Ive seen some barn finds, some with complete body, chassis, boxes upon boxes of parts and the all-important VIN plate and V5. But before I would take the plunge Id really need to know what Im letting myself in for. Ive seen pictures on here (and on Spyder?s website) of rolling chassis, complete with wheels, brakes, suspension and the Zetec and MT75 box fitted. What does this kind of setup cost, all fully built up? I guess the best way would be to drop Spyder a line, but insofar as Im just window shopping at this stage, I don?t really want to waste anyones time.

Like I say, Im not mechanically minded, but my family firm employs a half a dozen truck mechanics, so the prospect of buying a rolling chassis and doing the rest in a quiet part of the workshop could be a goer. Ive also seen some chat on here about where best to get an Elan shell prepped and painted, and Ive seen figures thrown about like ?8k+. Forgive me, but why so expensive? Surely it gets to the stage where its easier to re-shell the car from scratch, after all new shells seem to be readily available?

Anyway, sorry if this is becoming a bit of a novel, and apologies too if my questions seem horribly na?ve to more seasoned members!!!
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Thu Jan 21, 2016 6:37 pm

csm2760 wrote:Hi guys, Im fairly new to the forum, and hugely impressed by the depth of knowledge exhibited here. Im very interested in taking the plunge into Elan ownership, owing largely to the enthusiasm shown by my old boy, who owned a ?72 Elan Sprint when it was hot off the line.

SNIP

However, Im not really sure how best to approach this? Ive seen plenty of technical advice, but there seems to be a lack of discussion as to costings.


Welcome to Lotus Elan.Net, I'm pleased you liked reading about my S4 special (supersprint).

Like all things related to classic cars, costs can run away with themselves regardless of whether you restore close to original specification or modify to your own personal taste. Spyder used to produce a spreadsheet listing all the stages of work required to build a complete car and this included their labour costs all detailed nicely. I still have this on file and it's a useful tool for anyone contemplating doing their own build.

Here is the spreadsheet for the chassis and basic kit components
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7584679/ZETEC%20%2B2%20Price%20list%20spread%20%20SHEET%20FOR%20CUSTOMER%20full%20spec%202ltr%20all%203%20stages%20sep%202007.xlsx
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7584679/ZETEC%20%2B2%20Price%20list%20spread%20%20SHEET%20FOR%20CUSTOMER%20full%20spec%202ltr%20all%203%20stages%20sep%202007.pdf

And here is the spreadsheet for the labour costs and extra kit to complete the car
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7584679/ZETEC%20%2B2%20Price%20list%20spread%20%20SHEET%20FOR%20CUSTOMER%20options%20full%20spec%20finishing%20costs%20%26%20spec%20sheet%2028-09-07.xlsx
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7584679/ZETEC%20%2B2%20Price%20list%20spread%20%20SHEET%20FOR%20CUSTOMER%20options%20full%20spec%20finishing%20costs%20%26%20spec%20sheet%2028-09-07.pdf

You should remember that this is the absolute bees knees specification and not all of the items are need to build a nice car. As for up to date prices, some items are cheaper now whilst others inevitably have risen. Paul Dunnell at Dunnell engines is the person to go to for a well sorted Zetec, he takes a standard crate engine and extracts 185bhp with decent fuelling and mapping, no need for polished heads and high lift cams.

Hope this helps a little, unfortunately Elan and +2 prices have risen considerably over the last couple of years and there don't seem to be the cars around that make a good basis for a conversion project.
Kindest regards

Alan Thomas
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PostPost by: prezoom » Tue Jan 26, 2016 2:55 am

Allen,

Any additional information, beyond what is already posted on the site, will be appreciated. I recently purchased a 130S with a duff engine. After some research and the thought of having additional torque, the 2 liter Zetec conversion became the obvious choice.

Engine procured, and I am now in the process of collecting all the bits and pieces to make the actual installation easier. It seems the more I learn, the more I wind up buying, and the budget grows larger. However, the amount has not come close to what it would have taken to refurbish the twin cam.

So far, my conversion is leading me to some modifications that are not really needed for a basic installation. Utilizing a smaller diameter crankshaft pulley, simplifying the serpentine belt routing by reversing the rotation of the water pump. Possibly reducing the width of the serpentine belt, because it no longer needs to turn an air conditioning compressor, or a power steering pump. May even fire up the lathe and turn the whole thing into a "V" belt operation to turn the three pulleys. Going simple, with carburetors, because I have several sets on the shelf. Also have an Electromotive lost spark ignition system, complete with two different diameter trigger wheels to choose from and a race proof pickup. Will utilize the existing 2000E transmission, and was fortunate that the car already had been converted to CV axles.

Have deleted the VCT operation of the exhaust cam, and I am going to construct my own 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust header to enhance torque. Oval exhaust piping is an option to reduce the chance of the pipe dragging on speed bumps, etc. Though I am still looking for an appropriate silencer.

Keep the information coming.
Rob Walker
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PostPost by: elan66 » Fri Jan 29, 2016 7:11 pm

Hi Prezoom
as you are using the 2000e gearbox you will probably want to fit an 1800 zetec flywheel drilled to take a pinto clutch pressure plate and you can then use a lotus twin cam friction plate,a mexico slave cylinder and an extended bearing or a concentric hydaulic clutch.I think you can negate the need to modify the water pump if you alter the alternator arrangement(see retro fords website).You will need a water rail kit or make your own,and the webers used on zetecs often have modified progression holes drilled.I may be wrong(I normally am)but you may want to be careful with reducing the size of the crank pulley as i think it acts as a harmonic damper
regards
Paul
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PostPost by: Netec99 » Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:59 pm

Hi Alan & fellow Zetec converters,
Finished my zetec powered +2 last year. Here are a couple of pics from a track day at Castle Combe. Rear spring rates a bit soft, been updated since.
There is a couple of threads on this site showing the build.
Rob :D
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Wed Mar 23, 2016 8:37 pm

Netec99 wrote:Hi Alan & fellow Zetec converters,
Finished my zetec powered +2 last year. Here are a couple of pics from a track day at Castle Combe. Rear spring rates a bit soft, been updated since.
There is a couple of threads on this site showing the build.
Rob :D


Rob,
Hope to see you again at Castle Combe this year. I will be there with both my cars and hopefully other zetecs and specials will be joining in. Hoping to set up camp on the grassed area next to the Strawford Centre if we get there early enough, look out for the Lotus flag and the shocking green and white S4 with interesting mechanicals 8)
Kindest regards

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PostPost by: gavk » Thu Mar 24, 2016 12:43 pm

Rob,

Congratulations on the build, the car looks fantastic.

I love the gold accents to the white paint, looks stunning.

I've been thinking for a while about the potential for colouring the bumpers rather than having chrome but couldn't decide how it would look. I'd considered black, white and body coloured but never gold, looks perfect with the white.

I wonder if paint or wrap on the bumpers could also be more durable or easier to care for than chrome.

Cheers

Gavin
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PostPost by: mds4544 » Wed Apr 20, 2016 7:31 pm

img_21121.jpg and

[/attachment][attachment=0]IMG_2110[1].JPG

GPF 260N is in the assembly phase now. Wiring is going in at the moment and the pedal box is now complete. These pics are from a week ago.......
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PostPost by: pauljones » Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:08 pm

lotus-talk-f50/who-has-building-zetec-elan-t18863.html

Found this link while looking around. Makes good reading.
Kick the tyres and light them fires...!!!!!!!
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:39 pm

pauljones wrote:http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/lotus-talk-f50/who-has-building-zetec-elan-t18863.html

Found this link while looking around. Makes good reading.


Lots of posts from the late great John Pelly AKA Grumpy Bodger!

Mike Duff who is the custodian of his Zetec Elan is most likely attending the Club Lotus track day at Castle Combe this year, I will also be along with my Zetec +2 and Duratec S4 SuperSprint, hopefully lots of other "specials" will attend and it will be a great day.

Make a note in your diaries for Saturday 28th May!
Kindest regards

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PostPost by: mds4544 » Wed Apr 27, 2016 9:03 pm

I am just thinking about the chrome for my Zetec +2. Having had all the very many holes on the body filled prior to painting, I am reluctant to drill too many new ones. I am planning 'LOTUS' letters on the boot and the nose badge but no other badges.

The window frames are chromed as will be the chrome on the door weatherstrip but I am not planning to put the waist chrome back under the doors. I was wondering if anyone has fitted these strips at the bottom of the cill to hide the bolts holding the cill together?

Grateful for any thoughts ?

MDS
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PostPost by: elan66 » Thu Apr 28, 2016 6:48 am

Hi MDS
as you can see from the pics of Rob's car it can look great without the chrome strip.You could always "mock up"the strips to cover the sill bolts and see if you like the look.It is probably a bit low to get any decent affect i would have thought though,
regards
Paul
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PostPost by: vxah » Thu Apr 28, 2016 10:29 am

prezoom wrote:Allen,

Any additional information, beyond what is already posted on the site, will be appreciated. I recently purchased a 130S with a duff engine. After some research and the thought of having additional torque, the 2 liter Zetec conversion became the obvious choice.

Engine procured, and I am now in the process of collecting all the bits and pieces to make the actual installation easier. It seems the more I learn, the more I wind up buying, and the budget grows larger. However, the amount has not come close to what it would have taken to refurbish the twin cam.

So far, my conversion is leading me to some modifications that are not really needed for a basic installation. Utilizing a smaller diameter crankshaft pulley, simplifying the serpentine belt routing by reversing the rotation of the water pump. Possibly reducing the width of the serpentine belt, because it no longer needs to turn an air conditioning compressor, or a power steering pump. May even fire up the lathe and turn the whole thing into a "V" belt operation to turn the three pulleys. Going simple, with carburetors, because I have several sets on the shelf. Also have an Electromotive lost spark ignition system, complete with two different diameter trigger wheels to choose from and a race proof pickup. Will utilize the existing 2000E transmission, and was fortunate that the car already had been converted to CV axles.

Have deleted the VCT operation of the exhaust cam, and I am going to construct my own 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust header to enhance torque. Oval exhaust piping is an option to reduce the chance of the pipe dragging on speed bumps, etc. Though I am still looking for an appropriate silencer.

Keep the information coming.



Just a thought when I read your post, are you sure about the 2000E box behind a 2.0 Zetec? I have just fitted a 5 speed to my plus2 (1700 twink) and having 5th on a fast cruise is like having a headache lifted (well kind of)
I just was thinking with all that torque from the 2.0 you need taller gearing, even a 3.5 diff is not enough? Good with a 0.8 5th though..
Sorry to stick my nose in, just my findings..
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