Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Back from 9-days in the Florida sun.

I'm starting to feel that the lack of a lattice can be overcome without too much difficulty. Having said that, my vendor is still not keen on a stainless version but did suggest an aluminum version was possible. What do to guys think?

I really want to place an order next week.

Bill

Hi Bill
I think the shells come without wires if "light weight" I would get a sheet of blockboard cut to shape then cut holes in the board with large holesaw. Then use a router to chamfer both sides and lay up matting to make a panel with flanged edges just like the chassis holes. Strong and light!!
dave

Hi Dave.

So, box in the sill and perhaps run a resin/glass closing panel up the hinge and latch edges? Not unlike the trim panel.

How to attach? Bond to the sill and door aperture edge? I may need to create a bonding/screwing surface.

Bill

Hi
If I was lucky enough to have a new shell made I would ask for:
A flat floor in regard to the seat runners and also reinforced this area
Think about how to mount seat via body and cage
Also under stand how the pedal box will fit if using non standard side frames.
May as well get rear bulkhead sorted at same time
On an S4 I would get the left side of the boot floor made flat or same as right side - but I guess that only matters if right hand drive
Increase the size of exhaust back box area.

Nice project
Regards
Steve

Hi Steve.

The floor in my s2 was not flat. I assume the 26R body is also not flat. This is probably a good thing from a strength standpoint. Usually, a 3-dimensional surface is stiffer than a flat one of the same weight. In any event, I will likely reinforce the seat area with cross members between the chassis flange and the Safety Devices roll bar, sill intrusion bars.

The plan is to use the Kelvedon brake balance bar system. This basically bolts to the horizontal and forward vertical panels of the foot well. Some local glass reinforcing would be appropriate.

I'm not aware of any issues with the rear bulkhead on an s1 or s2.

My specification requires a cavity for Kelvedon's exhaust system.

Cheers,
Bill

So, the deed is done. I placed my order with TTR.

The body will be of medium weight with a aluminum lattice and strengthening of high stress areas. I am going with S1 style 26R head lamp openings so the appropriate mounting panels will be glassed int. Other options include a large exhaust tunnel for the silencer, a flat boot floor, and a heater plenum chamber (it'll be a road car), and Perspex covers for the head lamps. Doors and lids will be standard weight to resist distortion and support the car's intended daily use.

Bill

Curious to know the cost in $$ to the east coast if you're willing to share.(I understand if you're not)

Hi John.

I'll PM you the shipping quote.

Bill

bill308 wrote:So, the deed is done. I placed my order with TTR.

The body will be of medium weight with a aluminum lattice and strengthening of high stress areas. I am going with S1 style 26R head lamp openings so the appropriate mounting panels will be glassed int. Other options include a large exhaust tunnel for the silencer, a flat boot floor, and a heater plenum chamber (it'll be a road car), and Perspex covers for the head lamps. Doors and lids will be standard weight to resist distortion and support the car's intended daily use.

Bill

Recently bought the same thing but with light doors, bonnet, boot . roof etc etc
Mine also has the alloy lattice frame

This may be too late as you already placed your order - did you give thought to reinforcing the driver side floor ?

George

Hi George.

Yes I did give it some thought. I elected to purchase the body without a reinforced floor to save a little money.

I wasn't convinced an extra layer or two of glass or carbon fiber would make much difference. TTR indicated the extra layer basically covered the floor and ran up the vertical walls an inch or so. I felt this is something I could easily do if desired. I also thought a better way would be to run some steel tubing between the frame flange and the Safety Devices sill bars and mount the seat supports through the tubing and floor, or perhaps weld a metal plate between the tubing, and mount the seat supports to the plate. Lots of ways to go, but I like the idea of some metal in the mount that would not shatter upon impact, only bend.

Bill

It may be a bit late, but I suspect you can add it to the order - it is really worthwhile getting extra clearance on the left hand footwell. If you use a big bore manifold it is just too tight for comfort. This is a fairly standard mod. It is also fairly easy to do yourself before painting, fitting to chassis etc.

Paul

Hi Paul.

I didn't see an option to modify the left (port) wheel well for manifold clearance. The 26r chassis is notched for extra clearance and I had expected to fit some kind of radiation shield to the foot well as well as reinforcing the glass walls to better accommodate the balance beam pedal box.

Bill

Touchdown.

I picked up my TTR shipment Friday, August 7, 2015. Initial inspection is positive, but it was a close call.

This shipment included:

26r bare chassis
26r custom body
doors, lids, and windscreen frame and glass
radiator and swirl tank
roll bar
custom fuel tank
fuel sender
26r head lamp fixings
muffler and pipes
high strength, keyless axles

The loading window at the warehouse was 0830-1600.

The paper checking, took about 30 minutes. We had to wait for a 50- foot long, flat bed, to unload aluminum siding, packed in multiple crates, and then clear the area. There was only one dock, among many, that could accommodate a flatbed load. Finally, they loaded us, an imaculate flatbed car trailer with tandem wheels ($45 toll on the GW bridge).

The fork lift couldn't exit the dock holding the 13 ft long crate because of width constraints. So the driver put the crate down and rotated the crate so it could be pushed down an incline ramp, end first. In pushing the crate he seriously damaged end bulkhead. Not only was the plywood crate end penetrated, but 3 of the end perimeter members were cleanly fractured. Pushing of the crate collapsed 3 of the 5 floor support slats, transverse floor support members that were rolled over. We strapped down the crate and headed home.

Hours later, we backed up to my garage door and off loaded the trailer, with much effort.

Opening the crate top and removing a membrane top (there is also a lower membrane) cover with a half dozen desiccant packages, we inspected the contents and saw no damage.

The plywood penetration did not appear to touch the contents, but it was really close to the windshield glass and the rear of the body.

At this time, it looks like the crate was just strong enough.

Next order of business, clean and organize the work area, then unpack.

Bill

Wow! Bill that sounds terrific! I've been wanting to purchase a new body for my wrecked 26R that some day I want to restore back to street. Basically, just as you would have purchased a 26R in 65 or 66.

Do you have any pics? Would to see them ! Also, can you PM me what it cost you? I still have an estimate from Dave Bean 15 years ago for a body shell and 26R Mag wheels. $6700 shipped. Ha! I don't think he'll honor that today!

And as for the steel lattice, today you can coat the steel with any number of rust proof coatings. And although they do rust, it's taken 40 to 50 years for that to happen. At my age, I'll just go with the steel and hope I live long enough to see it rust !!!!

Frank