Lotus Elan

zetec engine in lotus chassis on 2+2

PostPost by: tablets32 » Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:08 am

hi guys,
john i think my gearbox is the bullet type? looking at the lotus workshop manual it appears to be the original box, do you fellas know where i can find out for definite? is there some identifying mark or a stamp somewhere?

it has a pressed steel plate on the top with what i assume to be a reversing light switch sticking out of it on the top of the box. i have spoken to Paul at dunnell engines he quoted me a price for a lightweight flywheel, clutch cover and clutch plate.
i won,t be ordering the parts until i can find out for sure what gearbox i have. just to explain i told dunnells that i think i have the original box.

on another track i have read that i need a starter motor from a pinto engine, does anyone know if there is only one type fitted? my bell housing is made for the starter to fit on the drivers side away from the exhaust.
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PostPost by: tablets32 » Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:14 am

hi
here is the bell housing.
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PostPost by: c42 » Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:32 pm

Hi Keith

Do you particularly want a lightened flywheel or do you not have the original Zetec item?

Regards
John
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PostPost by: c42 » Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:40 pm

Keith

Have a look at this thread:

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread. ... bullet+box

It may pay you to join the forum and try and contact the guy doing the conversion on his Cortina.

Regards
John
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PostPost by: Bud English » Thu Jun 14, 2012 4:27 pm

John - That's good advice.

From what I'm finding, The 2.0L zetec flywheel and clutch cover along with a disc from a 94 Dodge Stealth 3.0L V6 (Mitsubishi 3000GT) fits well inside the bellhousing we have. I bolted it all up and there is about 1/8" clearance between the flange and bolts on the pressure plate (widest point) and the bellhousing. There should also be room for the pinto clutch if you go that route, but I can't promise that without trying one.

The 2.0L flywheel is a bit heavy and the one from a 1.8L is said to work and is lighter. You should have easy access to one over there. Here, the only zetec motor that I'm aware of is the 2.0. A flywheel, new, used, lightened or otherwise, costs $115 :shock: to ship from there to here.

The Dodge or Mitsubishi disc is 8.875" (225mm) in dia and has the correct splines to fit the 2000E transmission. It also has the same thickness as the 2.0l zetec clutch. (Keith - there should be a metal tag on one of the transmission cover bolts that has the ID you're looking for.)

On the Zetec, the clutch and flywheel sit closer to the engine block face than they do on the Lotus motor by about an inch. If you go with a lightened F/W, take note of where this positions the clutch disk on the transmission input shaft. With the stock zetec F/W, the disc splines are dead even with the front end of the transmission splines. I think the after market flywheels are designed to work with the type 9 and MT75 transmissions. RWD Motorsports.com has one that looks to have the same friction surface height as the stock zetec F/W.

Because of the position of the flywheel as related to the motor, there is plenty of room for a concentric slave cylinder and throwout bearing. There's a lot of good info here on the forum on concentric slave cylinders if you search.

With parts availability and my budget in mind, this looks to be the route I'm taking.
Last edited by Bud English on Tue Mar 26, 2013 12:21 am, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPost by: c42 » Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:22 pm

For a bit more clarification I tried a spare original Lotus bellhousing on my 1.8 Zetec complete with flywheel and original clutch cover and there is plenty of clearance, I think the Pinto clutch plate works but that will need confirming and the release bearing will also need investigation but at least you should not need a new flywheel.

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John
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PostPost by: tablets32 » Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:52 pm

hi,

john, followed the link you gave me, got talking to a guy called neil, following the conversation he sent me this text.

Hi Keith

That is the shorter version.

So you will either need a Bearing Spacer kit from us, OR use a Lotus Twin Cam Clutch and replace the bearing with an Anglia one.

Just checking with my man to see if we can do an Anglia release bearing.

I'll let you know.

Cheers

Neil

he has done a few anglia/cortina zetec conversions and is very knowledgeable about all things ford, i am leaning towards the lotus clutch and anglia bearing. my zetec engine came minus a flywheel, but i do have the one from the cross flow i removed, i am hoping i can exchange that for a zetec one. the starter motor is still an unknown, but i am gradually whittling down the possibillities. i believe one from an automatic granada/sierra will fit but am still investigating.

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PostPost by: Bud English » Sun Aug 19, 2012 8:29 pm

Wow, time flies when you?re having fun. I?m almost too embarrassed to show up at this late date. Everything seems to take three times longer than I think it should.

My frame is totally back together with the suspension complete, brakes, hand brake, and brake lines, double fuel lines (for the injection) installed and back on four wheels. I replaced the seals and gasket in the diff and that's back in. Nice to be able to roll it out of the way when needed.

I have finalized that I will use the 2.0L Zetec flywheel and clutch cover, along with the Stealth clutch disk and a concentric slave cylinder for a SOHC Ford Focus. The slave should be here late next week. I?ll either make a spacer for it or use the E2000 seal mount and spacer that Burton sells. I always like to try the DIY approach before resorting to the ?Buy it yourself? route. I still need to tear down the trans and change all of the seals and gaskets before I bolt the drive train back in.

I recently picked up a 1.9L Escort/Tracer SOHC (US spec) sump and it appears to be exactly like the one in John?s post. I?ve cut out the required area and fashioned the plates to weld in. I?m going to try gas welding some scrap pieces tomorrow to see if I?m up to the task. If not, there?s a welding shop in town that says he can do it for me. I modified a metal oil pump pick up tube to replace the plastic one that came with my engine.

I?ve started into the body work and prep for paint. There's nothing worse than doing fiberglass body work in 100+ degree weather. As you can see, I didn?t make it in time for our local ?Fifties Fever? car event the first week in August. I guess there?s always next year (if I hurry).

Keith and John - Are you making progress or already driving yours?
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PostPost by: c42 » Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:58 pm

Hi Bud

Sorry for the long delay in replying, it looks like we are at similar stages. I am now looking at the shell but finding any mechanical job to do as an excuse to delay the dreaded bodywork!
WP_000342.jpg and


Regards
John

P.S. Please ignore the mess in the garage - time for a tidy(easier than bodywork)!
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Wed Sep 26, 2012 12:05 pm

Hi Bud,
sorry about the late response, just seen you post.

The 2.0 Zetec flywheel is heavy and generally not recommended. Most implementations in the UK use a lighter Ford equivalent such as the 1.8l.

regards
Mike
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PostPost by: Bud English » Wed Sep 26, 2012 5:18 pm

Yeah, Mike, I agree with you on that but they didn't use the smaller zetecs in anything over here. All of the available aftermarket flywheels seem to originate in the UK. Add in the shipping cost and they just aren't in the budget. I could probably lighten this one a bit but they can be unsafe after the process.

My +2 will be strictly for the street so I'll live with the extra flywheel weight.
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PostPost by: Bud English » Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:22 pm

Well, two days later I scored a 12lb flywheel on fleaBay. I guess I won't be bothered by the extra weight after all.

Edit: Turns out the 12 lb was the shipping weight. It's an eight and a half pound unit.
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PostPost by: Bud English » Fri Oct 05, 2012 2:41 am

After much delay I've sorted the sump. I decided to have it TIG welded. I had no problem gas welding the new raw stock but practice on the scrap cast piece scared me away from my usual DIY approach. As stated above, I started with a sump from a SOHC 1.9L Ford motor.
I cut away a bit more than John and actually removed the whole bottom of the sump. I wasn?t clever enough to get pictures of the modified sump before I started grafting bits back on.
In addition to cutting off the bottom of the sump, you need to cut back the front, inside, corners of the 1.9 sump to clear the 2.0 oil pump.
Pan Mod 3.jpg and
I don?t know if that?s the case with the 1.8 Zetec pump. If anyone is interested in that whole process PM me and I?ll fill you in.
Inside the new, wider, bottom end I added a gated baffle to control the oil sloshing side to side.
Pan Mod 4.jpg and

With the new bottom end it holds a bit more than 5 quarts. I think that with the filter, lines, and oil cooler it will be a six quart oil change.
Pan mod after welding 2.jpg and

I?m happy with it. It barely hangs below the front cross member and clears the removable cross member and sway bar with ample clearance.
Pan mod after paint with shortened pickup 2.jpg and

Double and triple check your shortened pickup for pin hole leaks in your welds. It took me four tries and I ended up braising the joint at the oil pump end to fix the pin hole in the weld. That end was oven braised at the factory and the old braising material kept contaminating my weld.

Over time, but under budget...
Bud
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PostPost by: c42 » Sat Oct 06, 2012 9:02 am

Good looking solution Bud.

Regards
John
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PostPost by: Bud English » Sat Oct 06, 2012 4:22 pm

Thanks John. I just had a good look at you photo above. Nice looking headers. Did you make those?

In my continuing two steps forward, one step back progress, I'm remaking my motor mount brackets. I built them using my old motor mounts that looked "pretty good" at the time. I recently decided to pick up new ones so that everything would be fresh. Nothing lines up with the new mounts. Comparing old to new, my old ones were shot. I guess there are worse steps to have to redo.

I can relate to finding anything but body work to do. At least it won't be 100 degrees in the garage when I get back to it.
Bud
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