Lotus Elan

Arg...

PostPost by: steve lyle » Tue Aug 09, 2022 1:42 am

So I decided I'd better crawl under the car and make sure everything was ok before the drive to LOG41.

And found a torn CV boot. 11 months after I replaced one (or was it two?) on the same axle. I'm cursed.

And then, after getting the car down off the stands and putting it back in its bay, I pull on the parking break handle and SNAP, it came out WAY farther than it should. So there's that, too.

IMG_1518 (Medium).JPG and
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PostPost by: 661 » Tue Aug 09, 2022 11:48 am

In that photo, is the rear wheel in full droop?
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Tue Aug 09, 2022 2:23 pm

what happened to the clamps, holding the boots on shaft?
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PostPost by: steve lyle » Tue Aug 09, 2022 2:24 pm

661 wrote:In that photo, is the rear wheel in full droop?


Yes
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PostPost by: steve lyle » Tue Aug 09, 2022 2:24 pm

h20hamelan wrote:what happened to the clamps, holding the boots on shaft?


Neither axle came with them.
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Tue Aug 09, 2022 3:38 pm

Screen Shot 2022-08-09 at 8.36.58 AM.png and


boot needs to be very slightly compressed when straight, so when at angle boot flexes.
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PostPost by: 661 » Tue Aug 09, 2022 4:11 pm

steve lyle wrote:
661 wrote:In that photo, is the rear wheel in full droop?


Yes

OK, that explains the angle. I just hoped you weren't running at that angle!
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PostPost by: david.g.chapman » Tue Aug 09, 2022 5:45 pm

If you haven't got time to change the boot, you could sew the split together using polyester thread. A needle will go through the rubber if you push steadily and carefully. Just get the edges of the split to meet. Then lock the thread with superglue and smear some RTV over it to seal. It should last the trip.
Also compress the boots and clamp them in the compressed state at full droop. Rotate the shafts to make sure the strain on the boots is OK.

Hopefully the parking brake problem is not too bad....

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PostPost by: steve lyle » Wed Aug 10, 2022 12:32 am

david.g.chapman wrote:If you haven't got time to change the boot, you could sew the split together using polyester thread. A needle will go through the rubber if you push steadily and carefully. Just get the edges of the split to meet. Then lock the thread with superglue and smear some RTV over it to seal. It should last the trip.
Also compress the boots and clamp them in the compressed state at full droop. Rotate the shafts to make sure the strain on the boots is OK.

Hopefully the parking brake problem is not too bad....

Dave Chapman.


Great idea, thanks. But I should be able to knock this off in a couple of hours. It's not like I've never done it before....

And it looks like the brake cable is simple - the end popped out of the tree. I probably set that issue up during my inspection.

BTW - Ken at DBE says these axles use CVs, and boots, from VW Beetles, if anyone else runs into this issue.
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Wed Aug 10, 2022 12:50 am

Friction, and rubbing is one issue with boots. The other is droop.

https://www.offroadsolutions.com/produc ... r-cv-boot/

If you compress the boot too much at droop, or straight, you can get friction, which will also tear the boot.
The best is no contact, droop, or straight. But, there is going to be some (usually at droop). So, whatever the majority of your driving will be, set the boot for that.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Wed Aug 10, 2022 2:31 am

The VW boots have no clamp at the large end as they fit into the metal flange that bolts to the CV. I dont think they used clamps at the inner end originally either as the rubber is a tight fit on the shaft but you could add them if you wished or if you get leakage

I have used the same second hand VW CV joints and boots on my Elan and Plus 2 for 40 years without problems and they were probably 10 to 20 years old when I got them from the wreckers :)

The angle of the CV at full droop looks larger than CV's would normally accept, maybe just the photo angle. I assume the CV is not binding at full droop ?

cheers
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PostPost by: steve lyle » Wed Aug 10, 2022 3:15 am

rgh0 wrote:The VW boots have no clamp at the large end as they fit into the metal flange that bolts to the CV. I dont think they used clamps at the inner end originally either as the rubber is a tight fit on the shaft but you could add them if you wished or if you get leakage

I have used the same second hand VW CV joints and boots on my Elan and Plus 2 for 40 years without problems and they were probably 10 to 20 years old when I got them from the wreckers :)

The angle of the CV at full droop looks larger than CV's would normally accept, maybe just the photo angle. I assume the CV is not binding at full droop ?

cheers
Rohan


No, not binding. The wheel turns easily.
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1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
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PostPost by: mbell » Wed Aug 10, 2022 4:04 am

steve lyle wrote:BTW - Ken at DBE says these axles use CVs, and boots, from VW Beetles, if anyone else runs into this issue.


That is correct, there are a few sizes of CV joint and boots thou. So need to make sure you get the right ones.

I have a set for my rdent waiting fitting*, was thinking about posting some information on them once I'd confirm they were the right ones.

* I manage to poke a hole in a boot when refitting them to the car. But no more of grease in 1000+ miles!
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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