Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Meg, I believe I did entertain some thoughts of selling at that time, had a couple of people look but did not pursue it, glad it did not transpire. It will be very satisfying to complete and experience even though I will not vintage race it nor build it up for that use, most likely local cars and coffee type events and a few track days. My goal is to have it completed for the annual Lotus Owners Group event to be held this September in Salt Lake City...if it happens.

Great news Jerry! Driving it to SLC, right? I may consider joining you! We need Mike O. to lead the caravan.

Richard

Quart Meg Miles wrote:JL, Good steady work, it will be worth the care you've taken. I bought my car in 1969 and it had already done 51K miles but has never been off the road for more than a few months so is rather higher mileage now. Could you reveal your chassis number, please, so we can tell if yours is a transitional car like mine?

Jerry. You were going to sell the beast in 2014! No willing buyer?

Chassis number 26/4684

Nevada DMV doesn't like that it only has 6 digits and wanted to stamp a new VIN on the frame if they did the VIN inspection. Discovered i could avoid getting a new number if I had a peace officer do the inspection at my house. A friend who is ahead of the SWAT team did the inspection, but I had to promise him he could use it to go cruising with his wife when it is done.

JLescenski wrote:
Chassis number 26/4684

Nevada DMV doesn't like that it only has 6 digits and wanted to stamp a new VIN on the frame.....

Thanks JL, that's well into full S2 spec.

My number is like yours, but one of the MoT inspectors wrote "CH NO 26/4088" on the certificate and the DVLA forced that to be the VIN so that all their numbers matched, despite me showing them the simple pattern from the original registration book. On the car it is actually illegible!

Hope you get your car back safely from the deal; the only time I let someone else drive mine, as thanks, he crashed it and wrote off a brand new chassis (er, sub-frame)!

Ok experts out there. I was working on the steering column this weekend and I have two questions

First, is this the right steering wheel?

Second, what goes under the button to create the ground connection. The parts manual she’s a three armed washer, but that looks like it will not work with this one

The part you need is a Triumph Herald/Spitfire part that is know as the horn push brush they come in two lengths. it is installed through the hotel in the steering wheel boss and touches the collar that is inside the outer column. At bottom of steering column, the shaft is earthed by a wire that goes either side fo steering column coupling.

The wheel looks like a period aftermarket one to me.

Regards

Vaughan

First checkout the horn push itself, there should be a good connection between the brass centre tag and the wire loop protruding at the side, when pressed.
Often these steering wheels have anodised finish which is an electrical insulator, so you need to ensure bright metal to metal contact throughout, horn push to boss, boss to spoke section, spoke to spline part, and spline to column.

[quote="JLescenski"]Ok experts out there. I was working on the steering column this weekend and I have two questions

First, is this the right steering wheel?/quote]

No! It looks like a 1970 small diameter substitute. Here's the real thing:


The lower picture was taken at 8 years old showing the odd orange varnish and the original dash pattern. Thirty years ago I had to replace the sideframes, took out the dashboard to strip and sanded it a little too hard. I also stripped the steering wheel which had worn through and I didn't like the colour either so left the laminating visible.


As answered above, the correct wheel boss had a hole for a sprung loaded plunger to contact the horn wiper. You can still buy the plungers but I don't recall if it was at Sue Miller or Classic Chromework. The horn push is scarce and was over forty pounds ten years ago (my orignal was stolen).