Lotus Elan

Lifting Elan on 2 post lift

PostPost by: HCA » Wed May 13, 2020 12:26 pm

No? OK, where are the correct lift points exactly?
I am sure I positioned the arms according to instructions from Paul Matty's service team. I hope I have it right as the car has been up and down a good few times now.. :shock: :shock:
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PostPost by: Foxie » Wed May 13, 2020 4:04 pm

gino1 wrote:Hi HCA..
I may be mistaken but you're not lifting the plus 2 on it's proper lift points...
I didn't think that was possible as the underside is not as strong as the standard Elan,,, Didn't say baby :lol: !


I have a pit in the garage for working underneath the car, so I have no great need for a two post lift.

I have a frame which engages with the four jacking tubes in the sills for body-off lifts.

If I need to jack up one side of the car for any reason, I use a 4 x 2 timber the full length of the sills under the fibreglass, supported on timber blocks.
150707HangingLotus.jpg and
68 Elan +2, 70 Elan +2s
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Wed May 13, 2020 4:38 pm

I have the same, small portable hoist as Andres. I know there are others here who also have the max jack.
I purchased a $330, 24’ length of 2.5 x 2’ tube, and 1/4 flat bar.
I removed the max jack inner arms, and replaced them with sections of the 2.5x2 tube with flat bar. I have yet to drill out the hole for the rubber circular feet. I have been using thick rubber for now, until I get the correct diameter heavy wall pipe to accept the feet (not an everyday stock item out here). They will be welded into place.

It fits both elan and +2 perfectly as they reach to the chassis. I feel much safer being underneath now.
Only complaint, is they dont hide away inside the outer arms of the max jack. Though, they are easily removed. Same goes for the max jack when I need more space for a boat or cabinetmaking etc. The max jack is nice because it is removable because the concrete expansion anchors provided are threaded. And I do lift suv’s and light truck fine with it 12 years in.

Having said this. When I built my shop. I reinforced with rebar and other metal around hoist points, so the concrete should be very strong in those areas.

If I did it again, and wasn’t broke. I would spend the $15k on a Challenger or Rotary in ground hoist (and I did dig deep and wide enough, filled with sand if I choose a inground in the future). As the arms hide away. Suppose the real draw back is you dont have a clean/flat floor to roll things on. :?:
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PostPost by: mbell » Wed May 13, 2020 7:50 pm

HCA wrote:No? OK, where are the correct lift points exactly?

My personal opinion is that is is an ok spot to lift from on a +2. The area at the bottom of the inner front wheel arch where it joins the floor is strong and the box section at the rear is also a string fiber glass section.

I have quickjack, with wood + foam spreaders on it that runs the length of the sill but I position it where it is under those two sections. The car has spent long periods in the air supported in that method with no issues.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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