Rear wheel bearings
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Hi,
Yes that is correct way as shown, protruding inner race faces into the hub, small circlip of course in groove.
Bearing has seals on both sides, inside and outside.
Ron.
Yes that is correct way as shown, protruding inner race faces into the hub, small circlip of course in groove.
Bearing has seals on both sides, inside and outside.
Ron.
Last edited by Craven on Tue May 23, 2017 2:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Craven
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Hi Guys,
Whenever I had my drive shafts out of the car and was changing bearings or whatever, I always took the opportunity to check the true running of the three lugs which mounted the discs. These MUST be bang on true to have good pedal action and not a lot of travel. Out of true lugs means disc wobble. Sometimes quite bad wobble too. Wobbly discs means excessive pad travel and soft spongy brakes,
Remember to check and true the correct side of the lugs. I have seen the outer sides done which is a complete waste of time.
Remember if checking and truing up on a lathe the shaft must be clocked in and have zero run out (on the bearing land), It must be 0.0.... Then clock the lugs and if they are out any more than a thou or so Carefully machine them until they are dead on true to the shaft. + / - F A.... get them perfect. Then no hammers during re build. They bend very easily. If they are not right you will never get decent brakes.
I can help with this if anyone needs them checking and truing up. Just get in touch and I can do it for you or give tuition on how to in my workshop.. (CNC Lathe) ... Just buy me a beer or two LOL...
PS My Sprint had the best working brakes and best feeling pedal I ever used! Honest!!
Whenever I had my drive shafts out of the car and was changing bearings or whatever, I always took the opportunity to check the true running of the three lugs which mounted the discs. These MUST be bang on true to have good pedal action and not a lot of travel. Out of true lugs means disc wobble. Sometimes quite bad wobble too. Wobbly discs means excessive pad travel and soft spongy brakes,
Remember to check and true the correct side of the lugs. I have seen the outer sides done which is a complete waste of time.
Remember if checking and truing up on a lathe the shaft must be clocked in and have zero run out (on the bearing land), It must be 0.0.... Then clock the lugs and if they are out any more than a thou or so Carefully machine them until they are dead on true to the shaft. + / - F A.... get them perfect. Then no hammers during re build. They bend very easily. If they are not right you will never get decent brakes.
I can help with this if anyone needs them checking and truing up. Just get in touch and I can do it for you or give tuition on how to in my workshop.. (CNC Lathe) ... Just buy me a beer or two LOL...
PS My Sprint had the best working brakes and best feeling pedal I ever used! Honest!!
Alex Black.
Now Sprintless!!
Now Sprintless!!
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alexblack13 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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alexblack13 wrote:Hi Guys,
. Then no hammers during re build. They bend very easily. If they are not right you will never get decent brakes.
As Alex says it is critical to get the arms true and to not apply any force through them when fitting the bearings with either a hammer or press. If you support the shaft on the arms in a press you will bend them. always support the centre of the shaft with a spacer on the press bed so the arms see no load
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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In the past my +2 had a very bad vibration when braking. When i checked a rear Disc was broken because someone in the past had bent one of the Lugs. The Disc was only held on by 2 of the bolts
Alan
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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