Restoration of S2 Elan - EOK

[Geoffers71]

Thanks Steve for the nice comments, I'm never 100% completely satisfied with my work, but there comes a point where you have to draw a line otherwise it just goes on and on and on.....
Rohan, yes the handbrake gear is all fitted, but no idea about the gearbox reverse light switch I don't think the S2 had reversing lights, did it?

[lotusfan]

Geoffers

I would strongly recommend using 'R' clips instead of split pins in the hand brake linkage particularly on the balance lever. Also fill gearbox and diff with body off.

You are doing a mgnificent job, I have followed your progress with interest and you are very quick.

[Geoffers71]

Thanks for the tips, I have used R clips on the handbrake tree, but the tip about filling the diff and 'box very useful. So, I've got the body back on the frame, marked all the bolt positions, taken it off again and drilled out and tapped the 6 holes that required it. Took me all day and I'm now aching all over
Took a tip out of BB's book and made up rubber type gaskets to go around the diff mount bushes on the chassis, BUT....the diamond shaped holes in the body are orientated differently to the bushes fitted to the chassis, thus;
Holes in body

Bush orientation on chassis

Questions are: Does the body sit flat on the chassis cross member or is there a gap so that the bushes are clear of the body ( should have checked while I had it on, but didn't see the problem)?
Should I open up the holes in the body so that at least the bolts are accessible if needs be? Assume that I must do this as a minimum.

...and before you comment on it I know the chassis is dusty It will be cleaned up and waxoiled before the body is finally fiited. Also the underside of the body will get a quick blow over'

BTW I've fitted the new clutch slave cylinder, but I don't have a circlip, anyone have a spare knocking about?

[elanner]

Ray at R.D. Enterprises has slave cylinder retaining clips ($4, I think). But I could find no way on God's earth to fit the thing using my circlip pliers, even after modifying them slightly per Brian Buckland's book. The clip would torque sideways and spring off the pliers long before opening wide enough to slip over the cylinder. Of course on a complete car this is a one hand job - there's no room between the exhaust and bell housing to use your other hand to support/guide the clip. The one I took off had clearly caused the previous owner some grief because it was quite deformed to be larger than the new one that I was trying to fit.

After some fruitless struggles I decided that without the correct tool (whatever that is) I was wasting my time. So I went to my local hardware store and got a regular 1" external circlip (the correct size) with proper eye holes that don't slip off the pliers ($1.50 and a lot less blue air).

I'm glad I did too, because after fitting it I realised that I had forgotten to fit the pushrod first (duh). So I had to take it off again, fit the pushrod, and refit it. Easy when the tool and part are matched.

If you can't get a 1" circlip in Blighty let me know and I'll stick the extra one I purchased in the post.

Nick

[robertverhey]

Yes the Spyder diff mounts are aligned transversely instead of angled as per original. I reglassed this area so that the body apertures matched the chassis ones (ie transverse). Not essential though, if you ever need to do any work in this area, you could always use a hole saw to gain access.

Re clutch cylinder, yep I'm with nick, the original style clutch slave circlip is a shocker, the job is reasonably straightforward on a cortina (from whence it came) but access is much tighter on an ?lan. So better to go with the eared type shown in pic below. Also shown are the angled pliers I use.

I bought one of those selections of circlips from Hare and Forbes, multiples of every external circlip you'll ever need for $14. Happy to send you one of them (or indeed the original one), if you wish. R

http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/K74378

[Geoffers71]

Very kind offers re the circlip Nick and Robert and a very good tip, but I should be able to source a 1" circlip as described from somewhere locally. Thanks for the info anyway. Regarding the diff mounts, if I don't modify the body holes will the body rest on the bolt heads? If I do enlarge the holes slightly so that they fit around the bolt heads, will the body rest on the chassis crossmember, or is there still a gap? I'm assuming there's a gap because the fuel line crosses at this point as you see in my pic.

[rgh0]

I fitted a closed cell neoprene rubber pad between the body and the cross member. Same thickness as the pad over the backbone.

Your Spyder chassis had the orientation of the mount bolts different due to the chassis design with the cross tubes not allowing the angled original orientation compared to the original Lotus pressed metal design. I would recut the holes so you can access the mounts bolts with the body on.

You can get the correct spade tipped circlip pliers for the standard slave cylinder clip at most tool stores. I have a set with interchangeable tips the can do inside and outside circlips in pin and outside circlips in spade designs. I you change to the pin design circlips they are generally thinner and don't fill the groove and can deform and come off under load, Find thicker ones or use two.

cheers
Rohan

[Geoffers71]

Update, quite a lot done since the last post I enlarged the body holes that embrace the diff mounts and glad I did as the bolts do sit in the holes. I also fitted some thick rubber gaskets around the mounts, before finally lowering the body into place

I'd already fitted the body to mark the holes and removed it again to drill and tap the holes in the chassis as necessary. About half of the body bolts went in first time, which means that about half didn't Some "ferkling" thus required to get all the bolts in
As the body was now down below eye level, quite a lot of defects suddenly appeared from nowhere, scars, pinholes, scratches etc, so more stopper and yet another coat of primer and then another w&d flat back
Anyway, I was not going to be put off any longer, so onto spraying the cellulose top coat

I know my gun is not the best, so the plan was to get as many coats on as I reasonably could, with the aim to flat back and buff up the last coat. In the end the last picture shows the finish after 4 coats. I did have to flat back after the second coat as I did have a couple of runs and some overspray in places. I will flat this back this 4th coat and then spray another two coats making 6 in all. That should be plenty to allow flatting back with 800 grit followed by 1500 grit and soapy water, before buffing up with Ferecle (sp?) Fine. All in all not too bad and I'm quite pleased really. I've seen worse (don't ask )
Cellulose is such an easy paint to use for the DIY painter and it responds well to flatting back and buffing up. And of course I can spend inordinate amounts of time flatting and buffing where a professional wouldn't want or need to. However I have used all of the 2.5 litres I originally ordered and have had to order the same again Not had so much fun with my clothes on for ages (Come to think of it I haven't had fun with my clothes OFF for ages either )

[Elanintheforest]

Great stuff Geoff...inspirational! You have now taken 6 months to do what most take a couple of years and more to complete, and many don't tackle the bodywork and engine build themselves.

Have you made sure that the heater and dash fit properly!!

Mark

[fasterbyelan]

As Mark says inspiring stuff! It's certainly given me a kick up the behind and got me back in the garage (and back on the Elan).

Keep up the excellent work and I look forward to further installments.

[silverlink]

Hi Geoff,
I see you're doing well with your repaint, I don't want to rain on your parade but I would advise against using 800 grade wet & dry on your new paint. Its to course and will take away to much paint as well as scratching the surface to much. By all means us the 1500 grade but put a little soap on it when rubbing down it will help with the flatting, also use a rubber block for the paper as palms of hands aren't very good for an even finish. once flatted I use 2000 grade again on a rubber block and again add soap for flatting down, you should end up with a completely dull surface. Follow up with Farecla G10 on a damp cloth followed by a buff up. you will probably need to do this a couple of times. I followed this with I think Farecla G10 or 20 I 'm not sure because I seem to have lost my supply from my garage.
If you need more help PM me
Thanks
Ian

[Geoffers71]

Thanks for your kind comments chaps Mark, I haven't yet tried the heater or the dash, should I be worried? Deciding the order to reassemble all the bits is a bit of an issue. BB suggests the wiper motor and bundy tubing, then the heater and then all the rubber bulkhead grommets and so on. Anyone any other priorities that come to mind? Bear in mind that ALL of the bits and the fixings etc etc are still in the boxes and I can't always recognize what is what. Be prepared fellers for another quiz or six to help me identify things.
Ian, Thanks for the tip on using 800 grit although I wasn't intending to use it on the final coat, there will be two more coats then 1500 W&D. Good tip about the finer grades though, I'll have to get some
I've promised SWMBO to take it a bit easier once the paint is done.....yeah right

[silverlink]

One other thing I forgot to mention is regarding the paint, if using cellulose you will need to give it time to harden. With two pack paint it works a bit like Araldite in that once the two parts (paint & hardener) are mixed together it starts to harden so once applied it starts to go off all the way through. The warmer the room you paint in the quicker it will go off whereas Cellulose takes much longer to go off and dries from the outside in which means the paint that is deepest takes much longer to dry so will be soft for some time. If in a temperature controlled paint booth it will dry that much quicker than if left in normal atmosphere. Because you're painting fibreglass It also means using special sealers and primers as cellulose will sink into the fibreglass (I've found this out at my cost!)
Cheers
Ian

[Geoffers71]

Ian, thanks again. On advice I used a 2K primer so that it would harden quickly and to avoid any sinking when the Cellulose is applied or fully dry. The plan was to leave the final coat of celly to harden fully, say for at least a month, before attempting any buffing using G3 Fine. All a voyage of discovery all the same

[silverlink]

Great stuff Geoff,
sounds as though you're well and truly on top!
Ian