Well, I've now got a new temperature bulb holder from QED and I must admit that the bulb is an easy fit in this one. Of course I still have the problem of fixing/refilling the bulb with Ether, but as a pro-tem step, I've covered the neck of the bulb, (where the capillary tube goes in) with araldite in the hope that that might stop the leak. Not holding out much hope, because no there is no smell of Ether at all, so it may have all escaped. Hey ho. Tomorrow when the resin has set thoroughly, I'll stick the bulb in boiling water & see if I get any reading on the dial.
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I've now put the head on the block, with suitable quantities of silicone sealer on the cork gasket of the timing case. It's only finger tight on the headbolts at present. I did find that my technique of hanging the head from my engine hoist, makes mounting the head so much easier than manhandling it. For example I couldn't line up the timing case to head bolt near the dip stick, so I just removed the centre & other-side bolt, loosened the head bolts as far as possible then hoisted the head off again and did the difficult timing case bolt first while there was a few mm gap between head and block, then the other two timing case bolts, before I set it down full weight, to do the headbolts back to finger tight. about 2 to 5 ft-lbs ?
I can't find my grommet for the oil vent tube
Seems silly to have to order just that one little item by internet. None of my electrical grommets suit. I may bodge something up with self-amalgamating tape until I next order a few bits & pieces, then I can order a proper grommet. I expect they are a bit of a pig to fit, while the head is on the engine and in the car though.
While the head was off over the past year, I've devised a new oil vapour vent system because I was fed up with the Inlet box system causing oil fouling on number 4 spark plug. I've clamped an alloy rambler's drink flask to the plate that covered the hole where the mech fuel pump used to be and made up a few bits of 15mm plumbing coper pipe into a T-shaped structure which goes where the old oil vent to air box pipe went, except in my new one, the airbox end is blocked so the vapour/wast oil goes down the long arm of the T via a bendy pipe, down into the green alloy flask. If much oil accumulates there it will of course be extremely difficult to drain it, I'll probably just suck it out with a turkey baster, from time to time. I'm not too sure about this idea though as it's mounted there under the carbs, though I doubt that the oil vapour is hot enough to be a problem is it?